Ermenegildo Zegna

• Founded: in 1910 by Ermenegildo Zegna (1892-1966) in Trivero, Biellese Alps, Italy.
• Company History: Business turned over to sons, Aldo and Angelo, who expanded into ready-to-wear clothing, menswear line, 1960s; opened branches in Spain, France, Germany, Austria, U.S., Japan, and United Kingdom; group-controlled production units opened in Spain and Switzerland, 1968; specializes in men's ready-to-wear; first U.S. boutique, 1989; fragrance, Zegna; opened Beijing flagship, 1991; E.Z. line, designed by Kim Herring, launched 1993; Oasi Zegna, land recovery program, Trivero, 1993; opened first outlet store, New York, 1997; opened first store in India, 1999; acquired Angora womenswear, launched Zegna Sport, and began online selling, 1999; formed partnership with Armani, 2000.
• Exhibitions:Made in Italy, Pier 84, New York, 1988; Wool Bicentennial, Barcelona, 1990; The Meandering Pattern in Brocades and Silk, Milan, 1990-91; and at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, 1992.
• Collections: The Power House Museum, Sydney; Museo della Scienza e della Tecnica, Milan.
• Awards: Cavaliere del Lavoro (to Ermenegildo Zegna), 1930.
• Company Address: 5 Via Forcella, 20144 Milan, Italy.
• Company Website:www.zegnaermenegildo.com.

"Our typical client believes in understated classic styles," says Gildo Zegna, grandson of the family firm's founder. "That's why they like Ermenegildo Zegna." Ermenegildo Zegna Group is not a brand of radical fashion statements; on the contrary, very classic tailoring, rich and supple fabrics, and obsessive attention to detail make Zegna the Rolls Royce of menswear, an image the firm is quick to reinforce.

The company's marketing and advertising copy describes wool spun into strands so fine one kilo stretches 150,000 metres, hand-sewn buttons, and the hand-pressing of each jacket before leaving the factory. The latter, it was said, took 45 minutes, but then suit prices are high. Zegna built a reputation on catering only to the richest of businessmen, well-established celebrities, and the world's royalty; only near the end of the 20th century did the firm expand into less exclusive apparel.

Zegna clothes are quintessentially English, from the suits of a world-class banker to the casualwear of a world-beating yachtsman or horsemaster. The fabrics are Italian, made for lightweight softness and presoaked in the waters of the Italian Alps, whose mineral-free quality has been sought after by Italian cloth merchants since the Middle Ages. The craftsmanship is Swiss—accurate, precise, always correct, while colors change year on year. Winter 1993 was brick, brown, tobacco, evergreen, billiard green, emerald; winter 1994 was eye-blue, cobalt, stone grey, tobacco, some red, more browns. Raw materials come from the world over—wool from Australia, cashmere from China, mohair from South Africa. Although most upmarket menswear producers use similar resources and methods, Zegna takes its selection a few steps further—for example, the firm's preferred cashmere is that of a Chinese goat, aged between three and five years. It then becomes understood the creators at Zegna are not just professionals but inspired visionaries of men's clothing.

Much of Zegna's strength lies in its manufacturing process. The company is vertically integrated, buying its own raw materials, making its own fabrics, designing its clothes, and running its own boutiques. The firm has always been forward-looking, yet steeped in tradition; it uses the most advanced databases to maintain and update customer measurements, purchases, and personal details, and uses CAD (computer-aided design) programs to adjust patterns. Wool fabrics, however, were still handwashed and suits still finished by hand.

Zegna is, however, successful in a highly competitive sector. The 1994 market for men's suits costing over $1,000 was considered one million units per year; Zegna sold 300,000 such suits during the year, capturing 30-percent of the market. To maintain and grow in this sector, their marketing has been subtle—like sponsoring a yacht race in Portofino, Italy, with no loud banners or posters, just models walking through the crowd wearing Zegna blazers with the small white EZ logo. Then there are the seat covers for Saab 9000 cars, where Saab salesmen were drilled in the virtues and qualities of Zegna fabrics so they would pass the information on to buyers. Zegna has also mailed sample swatches and possible combinations of jackets, ties, and shirts to their best customers.

In the middle and later 1990s, Zegna expanded into new markets with soft suits, the casual cut, and mix-and-match coordinates which were popular in the U.S., France, and Italy. Specifically for the U.S. market, Zegna designed sportswear to compete with Hugo Boss, Giorgio Armani, and Calvin Klein—shirts, slacks, and sports and outerwear jackets aimed at the 35-plus market. To complete a man's wardrobe, Zegna also makes natural cotton undergarments, high quality corporate gifts, and a signature fragrance.

Perhaps Zegna's most important strength is the tightknit family behind the company; the children of founder Ermenegildo Zegna as well as many of his grandchildren and great-grandchildren have roles within the firm. There was no indication such a reliance on home-grown talent led to stagnation, although outsiders also played major roles in the firm, especially in America. By 1996 there were five freestanding Zegna stores in the U.S., with the latest shops opening in Hawaii and Florida. Zegna also ventured into lower-priced goods with its first outlet store, in a large mall in Central Valley, New York, in 1997. Surrounded by such high-end designers as Christian Dior, Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers, and Barneys, the firm was in exceedingly good company.

Ermenegildo Zegna menswear is internationally known for its high quality and exquisite fabrics. Rapidly approaching its centennial, the firm has kept abreast of the times, from launching a website and introducing sportswear, to forging alliances with other menswear leaders like Armani and Ungaro. The family-run empire has a growing global presence in Europe, as well as two dozen shops in China, and its second store opening in the virtually untapped mens-wear market in India.

Publications

On Ermenegildo Zegna Group:

Books
• Storie e favole di moda, Italy, 1982.
• Giacomoni, Silvia, The Italian Look Reflected, Italy, 1984.
• Canali, Renato, La Panoramica Zegna, Italy, 1985.
• Enciclopedia della moda, Milan, 1989.
• Villarosa, R., and Angeli, G., Homo elegans, Milan, 1990.
• The Meandering Pattern in Brocaded Silks, 1745-1775, [exhibition catalogue], Milan, 1990.
• Chaille, F., La grande histoire de la cravatte, France, 1994.
• Martin, Richard, and Harold Koda, Two by Two: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, 1996.

Articles
• "Fuori la stoffa, ragazzi," in Panorama (Milan), 24 May 1992.
• "Der Kaschmir-Clan," in Stern (Germany), September 1992.
• "Zegna alla Conquista della Cina," in La Stampa (Turin), 7 July 1993.
• "La seconda conquista dell'America," in L'indipendente, 26 November 1993.
• Siow, Doreen, "High Price Can be a Strong Suit," in the Sunday Times (London), 13 December 1993.
• "Ecology: The Best Strategy," in Newsweek, 31 January 1994.
• "La ricerca Zegna sui materiali," in Il Sole 24 Ore (Italy), 15 March 1994.
• Dubini, Laura, "La géneration verte," in Jardin des Modes (Paris),April 1994.
• Gellers, Stan, "There's Hard Business Sense Behind the Soft Suit," in DNR, 25 April 1994.
• Bow, Jospehine J., "China Acquires a Small Taste of Italy," in DNR, 16 May 1994.
• "Zegna quota 500 miliardi nel 1994," in Il Sole 24 Ore (Italy), 17 May 1994.
• Levine, Joshua, "Armani's Counterpart," in Forbes, 4 July 1994.
• Gellars, Stan, "Zegna Built its $85M U.S. Business by Using Americana Marketing," in DNR, 20 December 1995.
• Palmieri, Jean E., "Zegna Sets Florida, Hawaii Stores," in DNR, 3June 1996.
• Gellars, Stan, "Zegna Finds a New Outlet for Its Fashion," in DNR, 14April 1997.
• Kline, Maureen, "Chic Executives Go for Zegna," in the Wall Street Journal, 27 August 1998.
• Betts, Paul, "A Range of Ties for All Occasions," in the Financial Times, 23 September 1998.
• Conti, Samantha, "Zegna to Buy Lanerie Agnona," in WWD, 14January 1999.
• Sman, Katherine, "Zegna Licensed to Make Ungaro Signature Collection," in DNR, 15 January 1999.
• Zargani, Luisa, "Armani and Zegna Form Joint Venture," in WWD, 25 July 2000.
• Daswani, Kavita, "Indian Men Beginning to Embrace High Fashion…Zegna Stores Appeal to Newly Fashion-Conscious Customer," in DNR, 21 February 2001.
• "Zegna Vision Lives On," in the New Straits Times, 2 April 2001.

— Sally AnneMelia; updated by SydonieBenét

Ermenegildo Zegna Holditalia S.p.A.

Type	Private
Founded	Trivero (1910)
Founder(s)	Ermenegildo Zegna
Headquarters	Milan, Italy
Number of locations	525 boutiques worldwide (of which 252 fully owned)
Key people	Paolo Zegna (Chairman), Ermenegildo Zegna (CEO)
Industry	Fashion
Products	Men's suits, fabric, accessories, shoes, small and large leathergoods
Services	Made to Measure suits, overcoats, shirts, ties
Revenue	€843m (2007)
Owner(s)	Zegna family
Employees	over 7000

Ermenegildo Zegna or Zegna (Italian pronunciation: [ˈdzeɲa]) is an Italian fashion house that claims to be the world leader in fine men's clothing.^[1] Founded in 1910, it is now managed by the fourth generation of the Zegna family^[1] and remains in family ownership. As well as producing suits for their own labels, they manufacture suits for labels such as Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent and Tom Ford. Conversely YSL Beauté markets a fragrance called ESSENZA DI Zegna,^[1] and Zegna have been expanding into accessories and leather goods. As one of the biggest global producers of fine fabrics (2.3 million metres per year),^[1] they have been active in promoting improvements in wool production around the world.

Contents 1 History 2 Production 3 Wool industry 4 Brands 5 See also 6 Notes and references 7 External links

History

Ermenegildo Zegna founded the company in 1910 in Trivero in the Biellese Prealps.^[1] Zegna quickly gained a reputation for producing fine quality wool suits, and by the end of the 1930s, the outfitter employed 1,000 workers. 1938 saw the first sales in the United States, although exports were not helped by high prices and the privations of war.

When Ermenegildo's sons Aldo (born 1920) and Angelo (born 1924) joined the company in 1942, it was renamed Ermenegildo Zegna and Sons. By 1955, the company employed 1,400 workers.

Ermenegildo died in 1966 at the age of 74. Aldo and Angelo took over the business and two years later they launched a line of ready-made suits, produced in Zegna's factory in Novara.

Another factory was opened in Spain in 1973, and another in Greece in 1975. The Greek plant closed after two years, however, because it was deemed unprofitable. A Zegna plant opened in Switzerland in 1977, which today employs about 900 workers. As of 1999, the Zegna Group had eight manufacturing plants in Italy, two in Spain, three in Switzerland, one in Mexico and one in Turkey. While many Zegna suits are factory produced, the majority of premium suits are still made-to-measure.

The first boutique was opened in Paris in 1980, followed by Milan in 1985.^[1] In 2007 their numbers had grown to 525 boutiques of which 252 controlled by the company, Ermenegildo Zegna ^[1] Zegna's flagship boutique locations are mostly found in the United States, Europe, Japan and China with megastores in New York City, Beverly Hills, Houston, Boston, London, Milan, Paris, Madrid, Tokyo, São Paulo, Beijing, Shanghai, and Bangkok.

Aldo died in 2000, but Angelo remains the Honorary President of the company.^[1] Oscar-winning actor Adrien Brody advertised Zegna's Spring/Summer 2003 and Fall/Winter 2003 lines.

Production

Zegna's range includes fabrics, suits, neckties, knitwear, shirts, accessories and sportswear.

Ermenegildo Zegna has a yearly output of over 2.3 million meters of fabric, 600,000 sleeve units suits, 1.6 million pieces of sportswear and 1.7 million textile accessories. Zegna employs over 7,000 workers worldwide with 28% percent of the company's revenues in the Americas, 39 % in EMEA and 33% in Australasia.

Wool industry

Prize winning Merino fleece judged on Zegna characteristics

As one of the biggest buyers of Merino wool, Ermenegildo Zegna has encouraged, supported and rewarded the efforts of the Australian wool industry since 1963 in the production of finer and softer wools. Despite this, the former Australian Prime Minister Paul Keating was criticised by the Liberal Party for wearing his favourite Zegna double-breasted suits as it has been a tradition since the 1960s that Australian Prime Ministers wear Anthony Squires suits.

In 2002 the Ermenegildo Zegna Vellus Aureum Trophy was launched for wool that is 13.9 micrometre and finer. Wool from Australia, New Zealand, Argentina and South Africa may be entered and a winner is named from each country.^[2]

Brands

Most Zegna wool suits cost in the US$2,000 - $4,000 range, similar to competitors such as Gucci, Fendi, Prada, Versace and Armani. Price is dependent upon several factors. Zegna's top line is "Couture," formerly known as "Napoli Couture."

"E.Z BY ZEGNA" is a brand started in 1997 in cooperation with Japanese clothing manufacturer Sanyo Shokai. During years of expansion and also thanks to an advertising campaign on major media, E.Z BY ZEGNA brand has become an important landmark for young clothing consumers in Japan. The brand is also observed by men's clothing magazines of nearby countries such as China and Taiwan. As of 2005^[update], there were 25 "E.Z BY ZEGNA" stores across Japan.

See also

• Angelo Litrico‎
• Brioni
• List of Italian companies
• Fashion

Notes and references

1. ^ ^{a b c d e f g h} "History and Development of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group" (PDF). Ermenegildo Zegna Holditalia S.p.A.. April 2004. http://www.zegna.com/media/press/history_apr04_en.pdf. Retrieved 2008-07-28. 
2. ^ "2004/51/1 Trophy and plaque, Ermenegildo Zegna Vellus Aureum trophy and plaque, plaster / bronze / silver / gold, trophy designed and made by Not Vital for Ermenegildo Zegna, Switzerland, 2001". Powerhouse Museum, Sydney. http://www.powerhousemuseum.com/collection/database/?irn=345179. Retrieved 2008-04-27. 

External links

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