grappa

A glass of grappa

Grappa is a fragrant grape-based pomace brandy of between 37.5% and 60% alcohol by volume (75 to 120 US proof), of Italian origin, similar to Spanish orujo liquor, Serbian, Croatian, Bosnian and Montenegrin lozovača or komovica and Portuguese aguardente. Literally "grape stalk", most grappa is made by distilling pomace and grape residue (mainly the skins, but also stems and seeds) left over from winemaking after pressing. It was originally made to prevent waste by using leftovers at the end of the wine season. A similar drink, known as acquavite d'uva, is made by distilling whole must. The flavour of grappa, like that of wine, depends on the type and quality of the grape used as well as the specifics of the distillation process.

Grappa is now a protected name in the EU, just like Barolo wine and Parmigiano cheese. To be called grappa, the following criteria must be met:

(1) Produced in Italy.

(2) Produced from pomace.

(3) The fermentation and distillation must occur on the pomace. No water can be added.

Criterion 2 rules out the direct use of fermentation of pure grape juice, which is the method used to produce brandy. Criterion 3 has two important implications. First, the distillation must occur on solids. Thus it is carried out not with a direct flame but using bain-marie or steam distillation; otherwise, the pomace may burn. Second, the woody parts of the grapes such as stems and seeds are co-fermented with the sugar-rich juice, producing wood alcohol which is toxic. This part must be be removed first during distillation and it requires care and skills. In fact, this is why now there is an Italian law requiring winemakers to sell their pomace to grappa makers; even if moonshine operations will never completely disappear, they are now very rare.

The legend tells that a Roman soldier first distilled Grappa in the northern Italian town of Bassano del Grappa using a distilling equipment stolen in Egypt (“Crisiopea di Cleopatra” II century AD), however this equipment cannot produce grappa and this is probably a legend. Historically distillation of wine was conceived around the X century AD by the Schola Medica Salernitana that also codified the technique to produce it and its use to treat several diseases. It was only around 1300-1400 AD however that the introduction of water as a coolant in the distilling equipment made it possible to produce substantial bigger amount of distilled wine and to distill pomace. Around 1600 AD the Jesuites in Spain, Italy and Germany studied and codified the techniques use to produce brandy or grappa and their methods were used until recent times.^[1]

In Italy, grappa is primarily served as a "digestivo" or after-dinner drink. Its main purpose was to aid in the digestion of heavy meals. Grappa may also be added to espresso coffee to create a caffè corretto meaning corrected coffee. Another variation of this is the "ammazzacaffè" (literally, "coffee-killer"): the espresso is drunk first, followed by a few ounces of grappa served in its own glass. In the Veneto, there is resentin: after finishing a cup of espresso with sugar, a few drops of grappa are poured into the nearly empty cup, swirled and drunk down in one sip.

Among the most well-known producers of grappa are Nonino, Berta, Sibona, Nardini, Jacopo Poli, Brotto, Domenis and Bepi Tosolini. While these grappas are produced in significant quantities and exported, there are many thousands of smaller local and regional grappas, all with distinct character.

Most grappa is clear, indicating that it is an un-aged distillate, though some may retain very faint pigments from their original fruit pomace. Lately, aged grappas have become more common, and these take on a yellow, or red-brown hue from the barrels in which they are stored.

Tasting

The method which thoroughly tried and tested by professional tasters, who distinguish the following four categories of grappa:

1. young grappas
2. cask-conditioned grappas
3. aromatic grappas
4. aromatized grappas

Grappa tastings invariably begin with "young grappas" and then continue with cask-conditioned and aromatic grappas before finishing with aromatized grappas.

When the tasting involves more than one grappa from the same category, the examination begins with the grappa that has the lowest alcohol content and concludes with the product richest in alcohol. In the case of the two grappas with the same alcohol content, the tasting begins with the smoother and less markedly flavoured product, which the organizer of the tasting will have selected beforehand.

After each tasting and before sampling another glass, it is recommended that tasters drink half a glass of fresh, pasteurized milk, swirling the liquid around the mouth thoroughly, in order to refresh the taste receptors on the tongue.

Another way to "taste" grappa is by rubbing a small amount on the back of the hand and sniffing. If the aroma is pleasant, the grappa is well made. Impurities in grappa come out in the vapor and can be easily distinguished in this way.

Various other food products can help to prevent the taste characteristics of one grappa being "dragged over" from one tasting to "contaminate" the subsequent grappa. Some of the items that perform this task, and which also provide an agreeable accompaniment to grappa's own flavour, are:

• salted pistachio nuts
• rusks spread with acacia-blossom honey and topped with a flake of mature Montasio or Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

(Source: Lessons on Discriminating Drinking/Distilleria Domenis)

Glass

With the introduction of "boutique grappas" elaborate flute glasses have been promoted; traditionalists continue to taste grappa in the age old shot glass.

References

• Behrendt, Axel, Grappa: A Guide to the Best, 2000

Further reading

• Ove Boudin, Grappa: Italy Bottled (Wine Appreciation Guild 2008)
• Axel Behrendt, et al., Grappa: A Guide to the Best (Abbeville Publishing Group (Abbeville Press, Inc.) 2000)

External links

• Council Regulation (EEC) No 1576/89 of 29 May 1989 laying down general rules on the definition, description and presentation of spirit drinks

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