Perched in the hills above Cannes, Grasse was a winter resort of royalty. Queen Victoria spent several winters here at the Grand Hotel or on the estates of the Rothschild family. The town, which has a compact Vieille Ville and a 12th-century cathedral (restored in the 17th century), is interesting on two counts.
Firstly, in the Middle Ages, it was a tiny republic, ruled by a council and entering into treaties with Italian city-states, including Pisa and Genoa. It had trade relations with Cannes, exchanging soap, oil and tanned leather for fresh hides and weapons.
Secondly, since the late 16th century and continuing into modern times, it has been the most important maker of floral essences for the French perfume industry. In spring and summer, Grasse is surrounded by flowers, all heading for distillation into concentrated essences. Fragonard and Molinard still make perfumes in the town, though most of the essences are sent to the perfumers of Paris.
You can learn about perfume making at the Fragonard Museum as well as the Fragonard and Molinard perfumeries.
Grasse is located near the GR51, and provides good access to the southern reaches of the Pre-Alps. It is at the heart of some very good hiking territory. There is also a launching site for paragliding and hang-gliding enthusiasts just outside of the town. (See Adventures.)
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DID YOU KNOW? Perfumerie, which is today Grasse’s main industry, came to town by chance. For hundreds of years, the town had specialized in tanning leathers and in making fine gloves for the aristocracy. In the 16th century, perfumed gloves were suddenly all the rage. The tanners and glove makers learned to make the scents they needed to treat the gloves, making the perfumeries of Grasse among the most important in the world, almost by accident. |
