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Well I know a relative amount of knowledge on the internal combustion engine but I am not a tire professional and you should always be very careful while maintaining steering components.

First off, i would most recommend that you find a "owners manual" that is issued or sold by the manufacturer. You will need and/or possibly need. The year and model of the vehicle (including manufacturer). The serial number for the vehicle or the model number. They contain step by step guides on almost ALL general maintenance routines. You will need to contact your manufacturer and work out a deal (just buy it) or you may have it. I recommend using the internet to find contact information, ie hotlines. Sadly these were not issued with MOST vehicles and only offered to be purchased.

OR, you can take it into a place like budget brake and muffler. Which is fairly convenient because the brake pads will be supplied for you and charged on your bill but you are still paying for the labor of the mechanic.

_______________________________________________________________________

------> OR, the cheapest way. Yourself and this is what I think you want to do. First of all, if you have already got the tire off and want to replace the rotor on the 2001 model and it seems there is a large nut holding the rotor on that you cant find a wrench for or torque it off... PLZ don't take it off, it is most likely holding the axle to the frame and set to a specific foot pound specification that should not be left tampered with.

If not....-----> I cannot assure you any positions of nuts as i have never worked on or been in or heard of any new Toyota corollas.

But i must tell you if you want to gain knowledge it is like any other vehicle it used two pads to transfer hydrolic pressure to a surface area attached to the axle which in turn creates friction and stops the car. Look into mechanics and find out for yourself if you like working on cars.

----------------> You will need a lug wrench ((you can look into lug nuts (the nuts holding tires on http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lug_nut)), a jack suited to automotive purposes, two jack stands, and a screwdriver. You may also need a set of imperial or metric wrenches.

This is where I stop saying what to do for your safety... Working under a vehicle is unsafe and should not be attempted by yourself, and without at LEAST 1 jack stand and jack under the vehicle and good glasses (very clear goggles) for falling dirt...

I exercise extreme cation. My father knew a man who had a jack fall out from under the vehicle with no stand and resulted in a terrible death... and yes you may have guessed that he was all by himself and suffocated...

You will also have to tighten the lug nuts back on in proper order (not symetrical, circle) of warping of you rotor may occur

apart from such tragic tales after you SAFLY get you vehicle up with your friend or friends and sucured two jack stands you can remove the old brake pad. There will be a rotor with the threaded studs in the center that the lug nuts were on. On this rotor with be a pressurized capiler, and on the inside of the capilar is the brake shoe (what you want to replace) read this and top up on knowelde before moving on... ------>>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disc_brake

Most capilars have some sort of a metal switch/lever type of device that can be simply "clipped" on and off with a screwdriver of maybe you fingers lol... if not there will be two bolts that can be removed, possibly two on the opposite side but i doubt it, after removing the bolts the capilars will come off and the brake shoes will fall out or have to be pulled out by you, once done take the new brake pads you bought at your local tire, napa, or auto parts store, designed for your vehicle and place them on the inside of the capilar(s), just like they were before (be carful as some pads may be the same on both sides but some you can put in backwards so try not to do that), then hold the capilar(s) cover in place and attach the nut(s) or bolt(s), the manual i described eirlier will have the recommended foot pounds of torque. After it looks like normal and is nice and "snug" you can place the wheel on and put the lugs on again, once again the owners manual will have the order to torque them and how many foot pounds.

have fun and don't hurt yourself

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Well I know a relative amount of knowledge on the internal combustion engine but I am not a tire professional and you should always be very careful while maintaining steering components.

First off, i would most recommend that you find a "owners manual" that is issued or sold by the manufacturer. You will need and/or possibly need. The year and model of the vehicle (including manufacturer). The serial number for the vehicle or the model number. They contain step by step guides on almost ALL general maintenance routines. You will need to contact your manufacturer and work out a deal (just buy it) or you may have it. I recommend using the internet to find contact information, ie hotlines. Sadly these were not issued with MOST vehicles and only offered to be purchased.

OR, you can take it into a place like budget brake and muffler. Which is fairly convenient because the brake pads will be supplied for you and charged on your bill but you are still paying for the labor of the mechanic.

_______________________________________________________________________

------> OR, the cheapest way. Yourself and this is what I think you want to do. First of all, if you have already got the tire off and want to replace the rotor on the 2001 model and it seems there is a large nut holding the rotor on that you cant find a wrench for or torque it off... PLZ don't take it off, it is most likely holding the axle to the frame and set to a specific foot pound specification that should not be left tampered with.

If not....-----> I cannot assure you any positions of nuts as i have never worked on or been in or heard of any new Toyota corollas.

But i must tell you if you want to gain knowledge it is like any other vehicle it used two pads to transfer hydrolic pressure to a surface area attached to the axle which in turn creates friction and stops the car. Look into mechanics and find out for yourself if you like working on cars.

----------------> You will need a lug wrench ((you can look into lug nuts (the nuts holding tires on http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lug_nut)), a jack suited to automotive purposes, two jack stands, and a screwdriver. You may also need a set of imperial or metric wrenches.

This is where I stop saying what to do for your safety... Working under a vehicle is unsafe and should not be attempted by yourself, and without at LEAST 1 jack stand and jack under the vehicle and good glasses (very clear goggles) for falling dirt...

I exercise extreme cation. My father knew a man who had a jack fall out from under the vehicle with no stand and resulted in a terrible death... and yes you may have guessed that he was all by himself and suffocated...

You will also have to tighten the lug nuts back on in proper order (not symetrical, circle) of warping of you rotor may occur

apart from such tragic tales after you SAFLY get you vehicle up with your friend or friends and sucured two jack stands you can remove the old brake pad. There will be a rotor with the threaded studs in the center that the lug nuts were on. On this rotor with be a pressurized capiler, and on the inside of the capilar is the brake shoe (what you want to replace) read this and top up on knowelde before moving on... ------>>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disc_brake

Most capilars have some sort of a metal switch/lever type of device that can be simply "clipped" on and off with a screwdriver of maybe you fingers lol... if not there will be two bolts that can be removed, possibly two on the opposite side but i doubt it, after removing the bolts the capilars will come off and the brake shoes will fall out or have to be pulled out by you, once done take the new brake pads you bought at your local tire, napa, or auto parts store, designed for your vehicle and place them on the inside of the capilar(s), just like they were before (be carful as some pads may be the same on both sides but some you can put in backwards so try not to do that), then hold the capilar(s) cover in place and attach the nut(s) or bolt(s), the manual i described eirlier will have the recommended foot pounds of torque. After it looks like normal and is nice and "snug" you can place the wheel on and put the lugs on again, once again the owners manual will have the order to torque them and how many foot pounds.

have fun and don't hurt yourself

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If you are replacing the pads or rotor on a 1987-1990 here are my thoughts:

  • Tools needed- 17mm hex socket, Large Clamp, flathead screwdriver, small wood block, rubber mallet. (Note; some calipers may have standard heads)

Step1:

  • Remove brake reservoir cover and tire(s) then remove caliper using 17mm socket counter clockwise (you may need to tap socket to seat properly. Back out screws- on the drivers side caliper tap or use leverage bar from the top of caliper and push toward rear of jeep- this will Free the caliper from the top and then it release the bottom of caliper form the support. Use a hanger or something to suspend caliper from frame (careful not to damage brake lines). This procedure is then reversed for the passenger side caliper.

Step2:

  • Removing Worn Pads: There are two metal clamps on top and bottom of pads. Take the screw driver and carefully lift the clamp ends/tips so they rest on the support (note clamps do not have to be removed, unless damaged)- Now remove pads (this is a good time to inspect disc and clean area and apply a small amount of Lithium grease on support where caliper ends sit (this will allow pads to slide easier). Now take your C-clamp and wood block to reset or push back caliper piston. Place wooden block on the inside of caliper (where the pads sit), then place C-clamp between wood and outside of caliper (make sure reservoir cover is off) and slowly twist clamp until piston is completely pushed in.

Step 3: Installing New Pads: Install is reverse of removal- Smaller pad rests on the inside or engine side of support. (Note: you may want to add brake silencer grease to the metal part of pads to reduce squeaks, etc). Once pads are rested, take screw driver to replace metal clamp end/tips- these hold pads in place.

Step 4: Reinstalling Caliper: Reverse of removal (driver's side: rest bottom of caliper on support, then swing top caliper in place. Tighten hex screws.- remember passenger side is reversed).

Step 5: Check Brake reservoir for correct fluid level- add DOT3 fluid if necessary. Replace cap-

Step 6: Install tires and start Jeep- Pump brakes- if peddle feel is soft or drops you need to bleed your breaks.

Option#1: Bleeding Brakes: It's best to removes tires for easier access- Two ways to precede (1) Buy a brake bleeder kit or (2) Do this manually with another person. - Manual instructions: Bleed Passenger side first: Tools needs 7/8" socket: Now- open bleeder valve w/ socket w/ a half turn (fluid should come out- Have one person slowly push the brake peddle to floor and have them hold that position until valve is tightened- do this 3 times to get all the air out. Use same procedure on driver's side and now you are done!

Option #2: Rotor disc removal: If your discs need replacement follow steps 1 & 2- Once old pads are removed the disc should simple pull off with little effort- Installation is reverse of removal.

!

remove the tire, carefully push the capilar in with a screwdriver. on the back of the brack claw are 3 bolds: the upper and lower are size 13, the middle with the brake hose atached to it is size 14. to remove the claw unbold the size 13 bolds, pull them out and remove the claw by lifting and pulling back. once the claw is out you can remove/install new pads. if you need to remove the claw to rebuild or replace, you need to unbold the middle size 14 bold. when re-installing you should used 2 new copper whashers.once the claw is removed you can also remove the disk simply by pulling it of the hub.

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