Humayun's Tomb

Humayun's Tomb, Delhi*
UNESCO World Heritage Site
State Party	India
Type	Cultural
Criteria	ii, iv
Reference	232
Region**	Asia-Pacific
Inscription history
Inscription	1993  (17th Session)
* Name as inscribed on World Heritage List. ** Region as classified by UNESCO.

Humayun's tomb (Hindi: हुमायूँ का मक़बरा, Urdu: ہمایون کا مقبره Humayun ka Maqbara) is a complex of buildings in Mughal architecture built as Mughal Emperor Humayun's tomb, commissioned by Humayun's wife Hamida Begum in 1562 CE, and designed by Mirak Mirza Ghiyath, a Persian architect ^[1]. It is located in Nizamuddin East, Delhi, India, close to the Dina-panah citadel also known as Purana Qila, that Humayun founded in 1533.

The complex encompasses the main tomb of the Emperor Humayun, which houses graves of his wife and Emperor Akbar's mother, Hamida Begum, and Dara Shikoh, son of Emperor Shah Jahan, as well as numerous other later Mughals, like Emperor Jahandar Shah, Farrukhsiyar, Rafi Ul-Darjat, Rafi Ud-Daulat and Alamgir II ^[2]. The complex is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the first garden tombs of the Indian subcontinent ^[3]. It signified a new leap in Mughal architecture, and along with its accomplished Charbagh garden, endemic to Persian gardens, never before seen in India, it became a trendsetter. It is seen as a clear departure from the fairly modest mausoleum of his father, the first Mughal Emperor, Babur, called Bagh-e Babur (Gardens of Babur) in Kabul (Afghanistan). Though the latter was the first one to start the tradition of being buried in a paradise garden ^[4][5]. Modelled on Gur-e Amir, the tomb of his ancestor and Asia's conqueror Timur in Samarkand, it created a precedent for future Mughal architecture of royal mausolea, which reached its zenith with the Taj Mahal, at Agra. ^[6][7][8].

The site was chosen on the banks of Yamuna river, due to its proximity to the Nizamuddin Dargah, the mausoleum of celebrated Sufi saint of Delhi, Nizamuddin Auliya, much revered by rulers of Delhi, and whose residence, Chilla Nizamuddin Auliya lies just north-east to the tomb. In later Mughal history, last Mughal Emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar had taken refuge here, during the Indian Rebellion of 1857, along with with three princes, and was captured by Lieutenant Hudson before being sent on exile to Rangoon ^[1]. At the time of the Slave Dynasty this land was under the 'KiloKheri Fort' which was capital of Sultan Kequbad, son of Nasiruddin (1268-1287).

History

Humayun's Tomb, with the Barber's Tomb in the foreground, Delhi, 1858 photograph.

After his death on January 20, 1556, Humayun's body was first buried in his palace in Delhi, thereafter it was taken to Sirhind, in Punjab by Khanjar Beg, there in 1558, it was seen by his son, then Mughal Emperor, Akbar, who also visited the final resting place of his father, when it was about to be completed in 1571 ^[9][10][11].

The tomb of Humayun was built by the orders of Hamida Banu Begum, Humayun's widow starting in 1562 at a cost of 15 lakh rupees (1.5 million) at the time ^[1]. At many places she is confused with Haji Begum, who according to Ain-i-Akbari was the the daughter of brother of Humayun's mother, who later in life was put in charge of the tomb ^[12]

According to `Abd al-Qadir Bada'uni, one of the few contemporary historians to mention its construction, the architect of the edifice was the Persian architect, Mirak Mirza Ghiyas (also referred to as Mirak Ghiyathuddin) as who was brought in from Herat (northwest Afghanistan), and had previously designed several buildings in Herat, Bukhara (now Uzbekistan), and elsewhere in India. Unfortunately, before the structure's completion, he died and his son Sayyed Muhammad ibn Mirak Ghiyathuddin took his father's vision to completion in 1571 ^[10][9].

An English merchant, William Finch, who visited the tomb in 1611, describes the interior furnishing of central chamber, compared with its barren look today. He mentioned the presence of rich carpets, and a shamiana, a small tent above the cenotaph, which was covered with pure white sheet and with Holy books in front along with his sword, turban and shoes ^[11].

Architecture

The exterior arch of Humayun's Tomb, showing niches on two levels.

Details of sandstone inlay patterns over the entrance iwan, and the chhatris surrounding the central double dome.

The symbolically cut out, mihrab facing West or Mecca, over the marble lattice screen.

The tomb built of rubble masonry, stands on a vaulted terrace eight metre high and spread over 12000 sq. mt. It is essentially square in design, though chamferred on the edges to appear octagonal, to prepare ground for the design of the interior structure. The plinth made with rubble core has fifty-six cells all around, and houses over 100 gravestones. Plus, the entire base structure is on a raised platform, a few steps high ^[9].

Inspired by Persian architecture; the tomb reaches a height of 47 mt. and is 300 feet wide, and was the the first Indian building to use the Persian double dome on a high neck drum, and measures 42.5 m, and is topped by 6 mt high brass finial ending in a crescent, common in Timurid tombs. The symmetrical and simple designed on the exterior is in sharp contrast with the complex interior floor plan, of inner chambers. As underneath the white dome lies the central octagonal sepulcher, the burial chamber containing a single cenotaph, that of the second Mughal Emperor, Humayun. It can be entered through an imposing entrance iwan on the south, while others sides are covered with intricate jaalis, stone lattice work. The real burial chamber of the Emperor, however lies further away in an underground chamber, exactly beneath the upper cenotaph, and is accessible through a separate passage outside the main structure, which remains mostly closed to visiting public. This technique of having twin cenotaphs is again visible in the later mausolea like the Taj Mahal as well.

The main chamber also carries the symbolic element, a mihrab design over the central marble lattice or jaali, facing Mecca in the West, here instead of the traditional Surah 24, An-Noor of Quran which is inscribed on the mihrabs, this one is just an outline allowing light to enter directly into the chamber, from Qibla or the direction of Mecca, thus elevating the status of the Emperor, above his rivals and closer to divinity ^[9].

This chamber with high ceiling is then encompassed by four main octagonal chambers on two floors, set at the diagonals with arched lobbies leading to them also connecting them, plus there are four auxiliary chambers in between suggesting that the tomb was built as a dynastic mausoleum. Collectively the concept of eight side chambers not only offers passage for circumambulation of the main cenotaph, a practice common in Sufism and also visible in many Mughal imperial mausoleums, it also the reflect the concept of Paradise in Islamic cosmology. Many smaller chambers too, contain cenotaphs of other members of the Mughal royal family and nobility, all within main walls of the tomb. Prominent among them cenotaphs of Hamida Begum herself, alongside Dara Shikoh. In all there are over 100 graves within the entire complex, including many on the first level terrace, earning it the name "Dormitory of the Mughals", since the graves are not inscribed their identification remains uncertain ^[10][2].

The building was first to use its unique combination of red sandstone and white marble, and includes several elements of Indian architectural, like the small canopies, or chhatris surrounding the central dome, popular in Rajasthani architecture and which were originally covered with blue tiles^[13][10][2].

Four central water courses define Char Bagh Garden's quadrilateral layout

While the main tomb took over 8 years to build, it was also placed in centre of a large Char Bagh Garden (Four Garden), which is a Persian-style garden with quadrilateral layout and was the first of its kind in the South Asia region in such a scale. The highly geometrical and enclosed Paradise garden is divided into four squares by wide causeways and four central water channels, reflecting the four rivers that flow in the paradise. Each of the four square is further divided into smaller squares with pathways, a design typical of later Mughal gardens. The central water channels appear to be disappearing beneath the tomb structure and reappearing on the other side in a straight line, suggesting the Quranic verse, which talks of rivers flowing beneath the 'Garden of Paradise' ^[10][4].

The entire tomb and the garden is enclosed within high walls on three sides, the fourth side would have the river Yamuna itself. It has two double-storey entrances, the West gate which used now, while the South gate, which was used during Mughal era, now remains closed. To the east lies a baradari, literally a pavilion with twelve Doors, which is a building or room with 12 doors designed to allow the free draught of air through it, finally to the north lies a bath chamber. Towards the south-east corner, within the 'char bagh' garden, lies a tomb known as Nai-ka-Gumbad, or Barber's Tomb (c.1590). Its very presence within the royal enclosure speaks of the importance of person, who was but a the royal barber. Inside this square tomb with a double-dome, lie two graves each inscribed with verses from the Quran. Also, one of the graves is inscribed with the figure 999 which may stand for the Hijra year 1590-91.

Other monuments

Isa Khan Niyazi's Tomb, dating 1547

Several monuments dot the pathway leading up to the Humayun's tomb from the main entrance in the West, prominent among them is one that predates the main tomb itself, by twenty years, built in 1547 CE, it is the tomb of Isa Khan Niyazi, a Afghan noble in Sher Shah Suri's court of Sur dynasty, who fought against the Mughals. The tomb which was built during his own lifetime, later served as burial place for the entire family of Isa Khan. On the western side of the tomb lies a three-bay wide mosque, in red sandstone. Built within its own enclosed garden, the octagonal tomb bears striking resemblance to other tombs of the Sur dynasty monuments in the Lodhi Gardens, in Delhi, showing a marked progression in the development of the architectural style which the main tomb displays in its full splendour as several of the early architectural nuances that can be seen again seen later tombs.

Afsarwala tomb and mosque, near Humayun's Tomb, 1803

Other monuments within complex, though outside the main enclosed area are: Bu Halima's Tomb, and its surrounding Garden, though little is known about her, and since the tomb or the raised platform where it once stood is not at the centre, so seems like a later addition ^[14]. Next comes the Arab Sarai (Arab Rest house), built by Hamida Begum, ostensibly built for the craftsmen who came for the construction work. Inside this last complex lies the Afsarwala tomb belonging to a nobleman in Akbar's court and also his mosque.

Standing outside the entire complex is the tomb known as Nila Burj (now known as Nila Gumbad) or 'Blue Dome', called so as it bears striking blue glazed tiles. It was built by Abdul Rahim Khan-I-Khana, son of Bairam Khan also a courtier in Mughal Emperor, Akbar's court, for his servant Miyan Fahim, who not only grew up with his son, but later also died along side one of Rahim's own son, Feroze khan, while fighting against the rebellion of Mughal general Mahabat Khan in 1625/26, during the reign of Jahangir ^[15] This structure is known for its unique architecture, as it is octagonal on the outside while square within; its ceiling is decorated with painted and incised plaster, plus it has a high neck dome and shows a conspicuous absence of a double dome feature, common to tombs of the period. Yet further away from the tomb complex, lie two Mughal-period monuments, Bada Bateshewala Mahal and Chote Bateshewala Mahal.

Restoration

Restoration work at Humayun's tomb

Before the restoration work was undertaken, vandalism and illegal encroachments were rampant at the site of the tomb presenting a serious danger to the preservation of this invaluable treasure.At the main entry of Humayun’s Tomb, dingy stalls had been put up under a very corrupt system of municipal patronage known as tehbazari, and all sorts of heavy vehicles were allowed to be parked illegally in these open spaces. On the Nila Gumbad side was a huge citadel of India’s vote bank politics — thousands of ‘slum dwellers’ were kept by an influential section of the political leadership to serve as ‘bonded voters’ during elections. The environment of the dargah of Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya had also been ruthlessly degraded and the holy tank had become a messy cesspool.

Restoration work by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture (AKTC), which began around 1999 after research work which started in 1997, and was completed in March 2003, enabling water to flow through the watercourses in the gardens once more^[16]. This was first privately funded collaborative effort under the aegis of the National Cultural Fund (NCF) by the ASI. Funding included a sum of $650,000 from the Aga Khan Trust for Culture of His Highness the Aga Khan, with help from the Oberoi Hotels Group ^[17][18]. In addition, AKTC is conducting a more significant restoration at Babur's tomb, the resting place of Humayun's father in Kabul.

After the restoration work, the conditions in and around this complex underwent a sea-change. All the stalls and other intrusions were removed and the monuments and green spaces restored. Elegant gardens now surround the monuments, adding to their dignity and grace. When illuminated at night, the monument looks truly magnificent.

The mausoleum today

Front view with reflections, central water channel in the 'Chahr Bagh' Garden

At present, threats to this monument arise from a potential terrorist attack or from vandalism as well as the regular mushrooming of illegal constructions and plastic waste thrown within the prohibited area around Humayun's Tomb. Threats of terrorist attack also lead to a sharp decline in tourist revenue which directly affects the upkeep of the monuments.

The Mumbai terrorist attacks of late 2008 saw a fall in tourist traffic to Humayun's tomb by more than 6000 in two months. Ill thought out construction plans like The Delhi Government's plans in 2006/2007 to build a new tunnel and to widen the roads near the tomb for the 2010 Commonwealth Games also posed a serious threat to the monument. Urban planners feared that the historic monument would not have been able to withstand the vibrations ensuing from the construction work in such close proximity. Finally, the Archaeological Survey of India was able to halt the plans.

Gallery

Details of Entrance portal into Humayun's Tomb	Entrance Gateway to Humayun's Tomb enclosure, from inside.	Chamferred edges add to the over all symmetrical design of the mausoleum	The fountain at the end of water channels in the Charbagh Garden, though simple in design were remarkable engineering innovation for the time.
Humayun's Cenotaph	Cenotaphs, of Hamida Begum, Dara Shikoh etc. in a side room.	The near by tomb of Isa Khan Niyazi, a noble in Sher Shah Suri's court.	Isa Khan's mosque, across his tomb, also built ca 1547 AD, near Humayun's tomb.
Nai-ka-Gumbad or Barber's Tomb, in Humayun's tomb complex, and a distant Nila Gumbad (Blue Dome), which lies outside the complex and is a late Mughal addition.	Gateway into Arab Sarai, south to the pathway towards Humayun's tomb.	Arab Sarai, (Rest house for the Arab), near Humayun's Tomb, built for the Persian craftsmen who came to built it.	Afsarwala tomb (Officer's tomb), adjoining the Afsarwala mosque, built in 1566 AD, within the Arab Sarai complex.

Further reading

• Humayun's Tomb & adjacent monuments, by Akbar Naqvi. Published by Archaeological Survey of India, 2002. ISBN 8187780088.
• Delhi - Humayun's Tomb and Adjacent Building Delhi Through Ages, by S. R. Bakshi. Published by Anmol Publications, 1995. ISBN 8174881387. Page 29-47.

References

See also

• Taj Mahal
• Indian Architecture
• Mughal Gardens
• Nizamuddin Dargah
• Historic Cities Support Programme

External links

Wikimedia Commons has media related to: Humayun's Tomb, Delhi

• Pictures of the Humayun’s Tomb
• Compilation of Indian Heritage Sites
• Satellite picture by Google Maps
• AKTC revitalisation of the Humayun’s Tomb Gardens
• Humayun's Tomb on Delhi-Tourism-India.com
• Pictures of Humayun's Tomb From a backpackers trip around India in 2005.
• Panoramic view on Humayun's Tomb at WHTour
• Humayun's Tomb travel guide from Wikitravel
• Photos linked to Google Earth
• - photographs of Humayun's tomb and other sites in Delhi

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Coordinates: 28°35′36″N 77°15′02″E / 28.593264°N 77.250602°E / 28.593264; 77.250602