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Louis Vuitton

, Fashion Designer

  • Born: 4 August 1821
  • Birthplace: Anchay, Jura, France
  • Died: 27 February 1892
  • Best Known As: Founder of the luxury monogrammed luggage company

Louis Vuitton began manufacturing trunks in Paris in 1854, and the company he started went on to become one of the world's most famous makers of luxury goods, known especially for its designer luggage pattern: a beige-on-chestnut monogram, "LV." Vuitton's high-quality travelling trunks were such a hit that he had to expand his factory within a few years, relocating to Asniéres in 1860. As the years went by the Vuitton line gained international recognition, thanks in part to a bronze medal at the 1867 World's Fair and a gold medal at the 1889 World's Fair, both held in Paris. After Louis died in 1892, his son, Georges, took the company to new heights, developing what is recognized as the first "designer label" on a product. (Widespread copying of Vuitton patterns pushed Georges to design the distinctive "LV" monogram.) Vuitton's luggage company has since become a world leader in luxury consumer goods, with products that include travel books, perfume, distilled spirits and designer clothing.

Georges Vuitton is also credited with developing Vuitton's unique five-combination lock... In 1936, after Georges died, his son, Gaston-Louis, took the helm of the company... In 1983 the Louis Vuitton company joined with America's Cup to form the Vuitton Cup, a preliminary competition -- called an eliminatory regatta -- for the world's most prestigious yacht race... In 1998 Vuitton entered the world of high fashion with the designs of Marc Jacobs.

 
 

(established 1854)

A leading manufacturer of high-quality travel goods founded in Paris, Louis Vuitton has become a truly global brand associated with luxury travel, the LV monogram immediately conveying an aura of status, sophistication, and style. The roots of this success lay in a number of landmark products, commencing with Vuitton's grey Trianon canvas trunk (1854). The stylish LV Monogram canvas (1896) and the soft Steamer Bag (1901) prefigured the opening of the Louis Vuitton building on the Champs-Elysées in Paris, the largest travel goods store in the world. The famous Keepall Bag, often seen as a forerunner of the duffel bag, was launched in 1924 and was followed by similar products. In the last quarter of the 20th century Louis Vuitton developed as a truly global brand: the first LV stores opened in Tokyo and Osaka in Japan in 1978, in South Korea in 1984, in China (1992), in Marrakesh (2000), in Moscow (2003), and New Delhi (2003). Louis Vuitton had also become part of the LVMH conglomerate that owned Moët champagne, Hennessey cognac, and the Lacroix and Givenchy fashion labels. By the late 20th century the LV label was applied to a wide range of expensive products, other than travel goods per se. These included watches, silk scarves, pens (such as those designed by Anouska Hempel in 1997), and ready-to-wear clothing and footwear (initiated in 1998). Frenchman Marc Sadler became the company's artistic director in 1998, marking the start of a number of fresh initiatives and collaborations with designers, illustrators, and artists.

 
(French luxury retailer and part of LVMH)
  • Founded: by Louis Vuitton (1811-92) in Paris, 1854.
  • Company History: Vuitton was apprenticed to several luggage makers; began designing flat luggage for use on new railways, diverging from traditional iron hooped trunks used on horse-drawn coaches; LV monogram introduced, 1896; opened stores in England, then in the U.S., 1897-1900; Henry Racamier became director, 1977; merged with Moët-Hennessey to become LVMH, 1987; LVMH bought Givenchy, 1988; Bernard Arnault acquired firm and became chairman, 1989; Recamier departed and started Orcofi SA, 1990; acquired many design houses and brands, from 1993; Marc Jacobs signed as artistic director, 1997; ready-to-wear line launched, 1997; introduced menswear, and opened megastores in New York, Paris, and London, 1998; opened second Hong Kong flagship, 2000.
  • Company Address: 2 Rue du Pont Neuf, Paris 75001, France.
  • Company Website:www.vuitton.com; www.lvmh.com.

The French firm of Louis Vuitton, making prestigious luggage and leather accessories since the middle of the 19th century, has been much overshadowed by its merger with Moët-Hennessey to become Moët-Hennessey Louis Vuitton (LVMH). Yet long before the merging of like-minded luxury companies, Louis Vuitton had established itself as an enduring purveyor of quality goods for the most discerning clientéle.

Young Louis Vuitton first came to Paris in 1837, in the year in which stage and mail coach travel was to be transformed by the opening of the first railway line in France, from Paris to St. Germain, to passenger traffic. Vuitton became an apprentice layetier, or luggage packer, to the prominent households of Paris at a time when journeys could take many months and require endless changes of wardrobe. He established such a reputation in this work that he was appointed by the Emperor of France, Napoleon III, as official layetier to his wife, the Empress Eugenie.

Vuitton acquired expert knowledge of what made a good traveling case and started to design luggage, opening his workshops to the general public in 1854 to provide luggage suitable for a new age of travel. Vuitton designed the first flat trunks that could be easily stacked in railway carriages and in the holds of ocean liners. Made of wood and covered in a new distinctive canvas called "Trianon Grey," this particular traveling trunk superseded the dome-shaped, cumbersome trunks originally designed for the stage coach.

So successful and prestigious was this luggage that other trunk makers began to copy Vuitton's style and designs, a problem the firm bearing his name was still dealing with over a century later. In 1876 Vuitton responded to the imitators by changing the Trianon Grey canvas to a striped design in beige and brown. The problem, however, persisted and in 1888, Vuitton adopted another canvas—a checkerboard pattern with the words "Marque deposée Louis Vuitton" interwoven through the material.

When George Vuitton took over the family firm on his father's death in 1892, imitation of company products was still a major problem, and four years later he designed and took out worldwide patents on the now legendary Louis Vuitton canvas featuring his father's initials against background motifs of stars and flowers. This innovative design had the effect of stopping all imitations until the 1960s, when counterfeiting became a serious problem once again. The firm launched an offensive, employing a team of lawyers and special investigation agencies to actively pursue offenders through law courts all over the world, which continues to this day.

Methods of manufacture have changed little since the 19th century. Suitcases are still made by hand; the craftsmen line up the leather and canvas, tapping in the tiny nails one by one and securing the five-lever solid pick-proof brass locks with an individual handmade key, designed to allow the traveler to have only one key for all his or her luggage. The wooden frames of each trunk are made of 30-year-old poplar dried for at least four years. Each trunk has a serial number and can take up to 60 hours to make, and a suitcase as many as 15 hours.

Although the luggage collection has always offered extensive choice, Louis Vuitton has been creating special made-to-order hard-sided luggage since 1854. Congo explorer Pierre Savorgnan de Brazza (1852-1905) commissioned a combined trunk and bed from the company, and in 1936 for American conductor Leopold Stokowski's travels, Gaston Vuitton designed a traveling secrétaire. When opened, the extraordinary design revealed two shelves for books, three drawers for documents and musical scores, and a vertical compartment to store a typewriter. The gate-legged table which completed the instant workstation folded into the door.

To celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Louis Vuitton logo, the founder's son George invited a who's who of designers to create items from its trademarked striped fabric. Azzedine Alaïa, Manolo Blahnik, Helmut Lang, Isaac Mizrahi, Romeo Gigli, Vivienne Westwood, and Sybilla all fashioned limited edition carry-alls, from small cases to large bags for sale at select Vuitton stores, as well as other items.

In the 21st century some 200 Louis Vuitton boutiques in the major cities of Europe, the U.S., and Far East supplied prestigious luggage, elegant apparel, and a wide range of accessories to its distinguished clientéle. As part of the LVMH empire, the Vuitton brand was nestled among an ever-expanding number of design houses including Christian Lacroix, Givenchy, Emilio Pucci, Kenzo, Fendi, Michael Kors, and Donna Karan.

Publications

On Louis Vuitton:

    Books
  • Lartigue, Jacques-Henri, 125 Years of Louis Vuitton, Paris, 1980.
  • A Journey Through Time: A Louis Vuitton Retrospective Exhibition, Paris, 1983.
  • Louis Vuitton, Traveling Through Time, Paris, 1984, 1996.
  • Vuitton, Henry L., La malle aux souvenirs [A Trunkful of Memories], Paris, 1984, 1989.
  • Forestier, Nadége, The Taste of Luxury: Bernard Arnault and the Moët-Hennessy Louis Vuitton Story, London, 1992.
  • Sebag-Montefiore, Hugh, Kings on the Catwalk: The Louis Vuitton and Moët-Hennessy Affair, Chapmans 1992.
    Articles
  • "French Capital Markets: Bags of Bubbly," in Euromoney, January 1987.
  • "Fashionable Takeover," in the Economist, 16 July 1988.
  • Toy, Stewart, "Avant le Deluge at Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton," inBusiness Week, 24 April 1989.
  • Carson-Parker, John, "Dese, Doms and Diors," in Chief Executive, November/December 1989.
  • Toy, Stewart, "Meet Monsieur Luxury," in Business Week, 30 July 1990.
  • Berman, Phyllis, and Zina Sawaya, "Life Begins at 77," in Forbes, 27May 1991.
  • Caulkin, Simon, "A Case of Incompatibility," in Management Today, February 1993.
  • "Vuitton's 100-Year Dash," in WWD, 22 January 1996.
  • Singer, Natasha, "The Rush to Russia," in WWD, 20 January 1998.
  • Raper, Sarah, and Katherine Weisman, "Vuitton's Big Adventure," inWWD, 19 February 1998.
  • Barrett, Amy, "Vuitton Aims Makeover at Youth: Leather House Launches Megastores," in the Wall Street Journal, 10 March 1998.
  • "First Look at Louis Vuitton Menswear," in DNR, 23 March 1998.
  • Edelson, Sharon, "Vuitton: Upscale Downtown," in WWD, 15 September 1998.
  • Lloyd, Simon, "Louis Vuitton Breezes Along in an Expansive Mood," in Business Review Weekly, 29 October 1999.
  • Hammond, Teena, "On Rodeo: A Bigger, Better Vuitton," in WWD, 23 December 1999.
  • Daswani, Kavita, "Louis Vuitton's Asian Rise," in WWD, 29 March 2000.

— Doreen Ehrlich Owen James

 
Wikipedia: Louis Vuitton


Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy, SA (LVMH)
Type Division of holding company
Founded 1854
Headquarters Paris, France
Key people Bernard Arnault, Marc Jacobs, Antoine Bernheim, Ed Brennan
Industry Luxury goods (leather goods, prêt-à-porter)
Parent LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, SA (LVMH)
Website http://www.louisvuitton.com
Louis-Vuitton situated on the famous Champs-Elysées, Paris
Enlarge
Louis-Vuitton situated on the famous Champs-Elysées, Paris

The Louis Vuitton Company (more commonly known simply as Louis Vuitton) is a luxury French fashion and leather goods brand and company, headquartered in Paris, France. It is a division of the French holding company, LVMH Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy S.A. The company is named after its founder Louis Vuitton (August 41821-February 271892), who designed and manufactured luggage, as a Malletier during the second half of the nineteenth century.

The company manufactures and markets luxury leather goods, fashion accessories, prêt-à-porter, and jewelry. Many of the company’s products utilize the signature brown Damier and Monogram Canvas materials, both of which were first used in the late 19th century. All of the company’s products utilize the eponymous LV initials.

The company only markets its product through its own stores throughout the world, which allows it to control product quality and pricing, and to prevent counterfeit products entering its distribution channels. In addition, the company added a single online retailer to sell some of its products (along with some of its sister companies such as Christian Dior).

One hundred and fifty years after its eponymous founder began creating and selling trunks in Paris, Louis Vuitton's signature leather goods are considered a status symbol around the globe and are highly regarded in the fashion world. The company's iconic Monogram Canvas design can be considered the first designer label in contemporary history; the design was created in 1896 by Vuitton's son Georges and was intended to prevent counterfeiting.

Reputation

The Louis Vuitton company carefully cultivates a celebrity following and has used famous models and actresses in its marketing campaigns, most recently Lauren Vaughan and Ashlee Gilbertson. Other models and actresses who have lent their name to the Louis Vuitton line include Opal Mackinnon, George Conway, Christina Ricci, Gisele Bundchen, Kate Moss, Scarlett Johansson and Naomi Campbell. Hayden Christensen has also appeared as model for the company's luggage and prêt-à-porter lines. Breaking from their usual traditions of employing supermodels and celebrities to advertise their products, on August 2, 2007 the company announced that the former USSR leader Mikhail Gorbachev would appear in an ad campaign along with Steffi Graf, Andre Agassi, and Catherine Deneuve. The company commonly uses print ads in magazines and billboards in cosmopolitan cities.

Vuitton bags and purses have a considerable list of celebrity adherents who are frequently seen in tabloid and magazine photographs carrying the brand. The Vuitton collection has also created a cult-like following among male and female consumers throughout the world. Owners of the bags and accessories often refer to the products as their “Louis.” This cult following by both celebrities and wealthy consumers has elevated the Vuitton brand to the foremost position in accessory design alongside houses such as Gucci, Prada, Fendi, Hermès and Dior.

History

Early days (1854-1892)

Louis Vuitton was born in Jura, France (now part of the commune of Lavans-sur-Valouse), but moved to Paris in 1835. The trip from his hometown to Paris was over 400 kilometers, and he traveled the distance by foot. On his way there he picked up a series of odd jobs to pay for his journey. Two years later, at the age of 16, he apprenticed for the luggage manufacturer Monsieur Marechal. In 1854 he founded the company, which is now owned by LVMH, a French holding company helmed by Bernard Arnault.[1]

In 1854, Vuitton opens his first store in Paris on Rue Neuve des Capucines, founding Louis Vuitton Malletier a paris. Before his quality trunks, French philosopher, Denis Diderot & Jean Le Rond d'Alembert makes mention of a Malletier and his techniques about 140 years earlier.[2] In addition, Vuitton began by selling flat-topped trunks that were lightweight and airtight. All trunks before this had rounded tops for water to run off and thus could not be stacked, it was Vuitton's gray Trianon canvas flat trunk that allowed the ability to stack for ease with voyages.

By 1885, the company opens its first store in London, beginning its international growth and reputation. Soon thereafter, the Damier Canvas pattern is created by Louis Vuitton and bears a logo that reads "marque L. Vuitton déposée," which translates to "mark L. Vuitton deposited" or, roughly, "L. Vuitton trademark".

Golden Age of Louis Vuitton (1893-1936)

After the death of Louis Vuitton, his son, Georges begins a campaign to build the company into a worldwide corporation by exhibiting the company’s products at the Chicago World’s Fair in 1893. In 1896 the company launches the Monogram Canvas. Its graphic symbols, including quatrefoils and flowers, are based on the trend of using Japanese and Oriental designs in the late Victorian era. This can be considered the first contemporary designer logo, as Georges is driven to create the pattern to prevent counterfeiting, which has already begun. The same year, Georges sails to the United States, where he tours various cities such as New York, Philadelphia, and Chicago. He sells Vuitton products during the visit.

In 1901, the Louis Vuitton Company introduces the Steamer Bag, a smaller piece of luggage designed to be kept inside Vuitton luggage trunks.

By 1914, the Louis Vuitton Building opens on the Champs-Elysees. This is the largest travel-goods store in the world at the time. Stores also open in New York, Bombay, Washington, London, Alexandria, and Buenos Aires as World War I begins.

In 1932, Louis Vuitton introduces the Noé bag. This bag was originally made for champagne vintners to transport bottles, and is currently sold as a handbag. Soon thereafter, the Louis Vuitton Speedy bag is introduced. Both are still manufactured today. In 1936, the golden age of Louis Vuitton ends as Georges Vuitton passes away. Estimates credit Georges Vuitton with over 700 new Vuitton designs. Gaston-Louis Vuitton, his son, assumes control of the company.

Anti-Semitism of Louis Vuitton (World War II)

The luxury goods company Louis Vuitton collaborated with the Nazis during the German occupation of France in the second world war.

The French book "Louis Vuitton, A French Saga", authored by French journalist Stephanie Bonvicini and published by Paris-based [3] tells how members of the Vuitton family actively aided the puppet government led by Marshal Philippe Pétain and increased their wealth from their business affairs with the Germans.[4]

During the Second World War, a sign at the entrance of the main Louis Vuitton storefront in Paris read "No dogs. No Jews."

Responding to the book's release in 2004, a spokesman for LVMH said: "This is ancient history. The book covers a period when it was family-run and long before it became part of LVMH. We are diverse, tolerant and all the things a modern company should be."

LVMH said that period in the Louis Vuitton history does not warrant 50 pages of the book.

An LVMH spokesman told the satirical magazine Le Canard Enchainé "We don't deny the facts, but regrettably the author has exaggerated the Vichy episode,". That publication was the only French periodical to mention the book.

Modern Age of Louis Vuitton (1937-1996)

In order to broaden its line, the company revamps its signature Monogram Canvas to make it more supple, allowing it to be used for purses, bags, and wallets. Further cementing its celebrity cachet, Audrey Hepburn is seen carrying the bag in the film Charade in 1963.

The company launches, in 1966 the classic Papillon, a cylindrical bag that is said to resemble a butterfly. The design is still popular today.

By 1978, the company opens its first stores in Japan, in Tokyo and Osaka. Vuitton products were popular in Japan, and its sales in Japan would come to account for nearly half of the company's total revenue by the 1980s.) Later, the company would expand its presence in Asia by opening its first store in Korea, in Seoul in 1985.

In 1983, the company joins with America's Cup to form the Louis Vuitton Cup, a preliminary competition (known as an eliminatory regatta) for the world's most prestigious yacht race.

In 1987, Moët et Chandon and Hennessy, leading manufacturers of champagne and of brandy, respectively, merge with Louis Vuitton to form the world's largest luxury goods conglomerate, LVMH. The group is partly owned by the Christian Dior group, and Bernard Arnault is chairman and CEO of both companies.

During this time, the company broadened its product lines by introducing Epi and Taiga leather products. The unique look of the leathers are utilized in everything from small purses and wallets to larger pieces of luggage.

Millennium Age of Louis Vuitton (1997-present)

In 1997, the company hires designer Marc Jacobs to be the label's artistic director. In March of the following year, he designs and introduces the company's first prêt-à-porter line of clothing.

By 2001, Stephen Sprouse, in collaboration with Marc Jacobs, designs a limited-edition line of Vuitton bags that feature graffiti written over the monogram pattern. The graffiti says Louis Vuitton and, on certain bags, the name of the bag (such as 'Keepall' and 'Speedy'). Certain pieces, which feature the graffiti without the Monogram Canvas background, are created and only available to the customers on Vuitton's V.I.P. customer list.

In 2003, Takashi Murakami, in collaboration with Marc Jacobs, masterminds the new Monogram Multicolore canvas range of handbags and accessories. This range includes the monograms of the standard Monogram Canvas, but in 33 different colors on either a white or black background. (The classic canvas features gold monograms on a brown background.) Murakami also creates the "Cherry Blossom" pattern, in which smiling cartoon faces in the middle of pink and yellow flowers are sporadically placed atop the Monogram Canvas. This pattern appeared on a limited number of pieces, which sold out quickly; the production of this limited-edition run was discontinued in June 2003.

By the end of 2007 Louis Vuittons world flagship stores were in Paris, London, Osaka, Tokyo, New York, Shanghai, Saipan, Beijing, Hong Kong, Taipei, Honolulu, Los Angeles, Moscow, Saint Tropez, Boston, Las Vegas, and Nice.

Counterfeiting

A genuine Louis Vuitton purse from its new line.
Enlarge
A genuine Louis Vuitton purse from its new line.

The brand is highly counterfeited, and just over 1% of the items bearing the trademark LV_Icon.svg monogram are authentic. Ironically, the signature Monogram Canvas was created to prevent counterfeiting.[5] In 2004, Louis Vuitton fakes accounted for 18% of counterfeit accessories seized in the European Union. LVMH, Vuitton's parent company, said that it employed "some 60 people at various levels of responsibility working full time on anti-counterfeiting, in collaboration with a wide network of outside investigators and a team of lawyers."[6]

In an effort to prevent counterfeiting, the company closely controls the distribution of its products. Until the 1980s, Vuitton products were widely sold in department stores, such as Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. Today, Vuitton products are primarily available at Louis Vuitton boutiques, with a small number of exceptions. These boutiques are commonly found in upmarket shopping districts or, less commonly, inside high-end department stores. The boutiques within department stores operate independently and have their own managers and employees. In addition, to control the online distribution of its products, the company has authorized eLuxury.com to market some of its products.

See also

References

External links


 
 

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Copyrights:

Who2 Biography. Copyright © 1998-2008 by Who2, LLC. All rights reserved. See the Louis Vuitton biography from Who2.  Read more
Modern Design Dictionary. A Dictionary of Modern Design. Copyright © 2004, 2005 by Oxford University Press. All rights reserved.  Read more
Modern Fashion Encyclopedia. © 2006 through a partnership of Answers Corporation. All rights reserved.  Read more
Wikipedia. This article is licensed under the GNU Free Documentation License. It uses material from the Wikipedia article "Louis Vuitton" Read more

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