Milford Haven

Coordinates: 51°42′51″N 5°02′34″W / 51.71418°N 5.04274°W / 51.71418; -5.04274

Milford Haven
Welsh: Aberdaugleddau
View of Milford Haven Docks from Hakin
Milford Haven shown within Wales
Population	14,000
OS grid reference	SM899061
Principal area	Pembrokeshire
Ceremonial county	Dyfed
Constituent country	Wales
Sovereign state	United Kingdom
Post town	MILFORD HAVEN
Postcode district	SA73
Dialling code	01646
Police	Dyfed-Powys
Fire	Mid and West Wales
Ambulance	Welsh
European Parliament	Wales
UK Parliament	Preseli Pembrokeshire
Welsh Assembly	Preseli Pembrokeshire
List of places: UK • Wales • Pembrokeshire

Milford Haven (Welsh: Aberdaugleddau, meaning "mouth of the two Rivers Cleddau") is a town in Pembrokeshire, Wales on the north side of the inlet of the same name. Founded as a whaling centre in the 18th century, the town's port is one of the largest in the United Kingdom in terms of tonnage^[1] and plays an important role in the United Kingdom's energy sector with several oil refineries and one of the biggest LNG terminals in the world. Milford Haven is the second largest settlement in Pembrokeshire, with a population of 13,100;^[2] though its community boundaries make it the most populous in the county, with 13,096 people.^[3].

Origin of name

The current form is an anglicization, with Scandinavian origins. From the Old Norse, Melr, meaning sand hill or sandbank, and fjordr, meaning fiord or inlet, combined to create Milford. As the meaning of Fiord gradually became less clear over time, Haven was added to clarify its status as a town on the Haven.^[4]. The Welsh for Milford Haven, 'Aberdaugleddau', refers to the estuary which is the meeting point of both Cleddau rivers - 'White River Cleddau' (Afon Cleddau Wen) in the West and 'Black River Cleddau' (Afon Cleddau Ddu) in the East. The meaning of 'Aber' is associated with the 'pouring out' of a river, hence the description of the two rivers meeting and forming an estuary.

Early history

From the 790s until the Norman Invasion in 1066, the waterway was used occasionally by Vikings looking for shelter. During one visit in 854, the Viking Chieftain Hubba wintered in the Haven with 23 ships, eventually lending his name to the district of Hubberston.^[5] A Benedictine priory was established at the head of Hubberston Pill in 1170. Founded by Adam de Rupe, it stood until the Dissolution under Henry VIII.^[6]

Street plan of Milford Haven 1868

St Thomas a Becket chapel was dedicated in 1180, a structure which looked out over the Haven from the north shore of the town. In later years it was used as a beacon for sailors in foul weather,^[7] and ultimately as a pig sty, until it was reconsecrated in the twentieth century. In his play Cymbeline (1611), Shakespeare references Milford in the lines: "...how far it is to this same blessed Milford: and by the way tell me how Wales was made so happy as to inherit such a haven..."^[8] The area however was a source of anxiety for the Tudor monarchy. Due to its location, it was exposed to attacks from Ireland, a convenient base from which England could be invaded via Wales.^[9] In 1405, the French landed in force having left Brest in July with more than twenty-eight hundred knights and men-at-arms led by Jean de Rieux, the Marshal of France, in order to support Owain Glyndŵr's rebellion. The land comprising the site of Milford, the Manor of Hubberston and Pill, was acquired by the Barlow family following the dissolution of the monasteries in the mid-sixteenth century. By the late 1700s, the two creeks which would delimit the future town of Milford's boundaries to the east and west, namely Hakin and Castle Pill, were being used as harbours for ships to load and unload coal, corn and limestone.^[10] Although surrounding settlements at Steynton, Thornton, Priory, Liddeston and Hubberston/Hakin were established, they were little more than hamlets. The only man-made structures on the future site of Milford were the medieval chapel, and Summer Hill Farm, and its accompanying cottages.

View of Milford Haven from Hakin in 1829

Foundation

By the mid eighteenth century, the lands had been inherited by Catherine Barlow of Slebech, who at the time was living in London. In 1758 she married Sir William Hamilton, and on her death in 1782, he inherited the land in the Hubberston and Pill area. He became interested in the Pembrokeshire coalfield, and the idea of developing the land and harbour into a town.^[11] Hon. Charles Francis Greville, his nephew, was given responsibility for managing the project, and in 1790 an Act of Parliament was granted which made it possible to continue.^[12] Greville proceeded to invite seven Quaker familes to settle in the new town, and in 1792 they arrived with the intention of developing a whaling fleet to service the growing demand for street lighting.^[13]. In 1797 the Navy Board established a dockyard which produced warships. Progress was rapid, and by 1802, Admiral Nelson had been invited to view the town in person as part of a tour to celebrate the anniversary of the Battle of the Nile. He spoke glowingly during a banquet held in his honour, commenting on the number of whaleships sent to the Southern Oceans, Milford's status as a primary seaport on the west coast of Britain, and culminated in comparing the harbour with that of Trincomalee in Sri Lanka as to be the two best he had ever seen.^[11] Greville's plans were no less ambitious. At a site on high ground in Hakin, he planned to build The College of King George the Third founded at Milford, whose centrepiece would be an observatory. Although the observatory was built, and indeed scientific instruments were delivered, the college never functioned as such.^[11] A church, dedicated to St Catherine of Alexandria, was consecrated in October 1808. Located in the underdeveloped eastern side of the town, it remained a chapel of ease until 1891 when Milford became a parish, until that time competing with St Peter and St Cewydd in Steynton.^[11]

Development of the town

In 1814 the Royal Dockyard was transferred to Pembroke Dock, which quickly reduced the fortunes of the new town. John Bartholomew commented in 1887 that Milford was in a languishing state, although he noted that the commercial docks, at that time under construction, "will probably become a great seat of trade with America".^[14] Robert Fulke Greville inherited the estate in 1824, and in 1853 relocated to the town. He commenced a series of improvements, including the building of a wooden pier and hotel for the Irish traffic, two bridges across Milford's two pills and obtaining an Improvement Act for the town.^[15]

Milford Harbour Pre-Dockyard

The town's population was further boosted by Quaker whalers from Nantucket, and a growing fishing industry that employed a large number of people. By 1849, the district of Hakin was described as a considerable centre of boat building, with approximately 200 "shipwrights residing at that place".^[16] The Milford Docks Act 1874 authorised the construction of a docks in Hubberston Pill, a plan which was estimated to require 2 1/2 years before completion. It was eventually finished in 1888, but the transatlantic trade hoped for never materialized.^[17] Instead, the newly completed dockyard became the home of a sprawling fishing industry. By 1906, Milford had become the sixth largest fishing port in the UK, and in contrast to the general decline in Pembrokeshire's economy and a migration towards the South Wales Coal fields during the 1880s, its population rose. The Pembrokeshire Herald claimed in 1912 that "the fish trade is Milford's sole industry....the population of the town has doubled by means of it".^[18] In 1863, the railway network came to Milford, linking it to the Haverfordwest line and beyond. In 1866, work was completed on an additional extension which provided access to the docks and mining depot on the eastern side of the town.^[19] If the Manchester and Milford Railway scheme had come to fruition, the town would have enjoyed a direct rail link to the Midlands and Northwest England. By 1901, the town's population had reached 5,102, and by 1931 had doubled to 10,104."^[20]

Harbour View from Milford Haven

The oil age

By the 1950s, the fishing industry was in decline, and unemployment in the area had reached 11%. There had been a housing boom however in the years following Second World War. The District Council took advantage of recently lifted restrictions, and built over 1,000 new homes to accommodate the rising population.^[11] A new wave of hope however arrived with the prospect of a booming oil industry. In 1960, the Esso Company built an oil refinery near the town, and this was followed by similar developments by many other chief oil companies in a 10 year period. In 1974, Milford could boast an oil trade of 58,554,000 tons, which was three times the combined trade of all the other ports of Wales. By the early 1980s, the Esso refinery was the 2nd largest in the UK."^[21] The industry however was not labour intensive, and did not provide huge labour opportunities for locals, in the 1970s employing only 2,000 workers."^[22] In 1996 the area hit the headlines internationally when the oil tanker Sea Empress ran aground, causing a substantial oil spill.^[23]

Issue with Welsh language

In November 2008, the local council demanded the right to opt-out of a scheme in which official documents had to be translated into Welsh if requested. They argued that it was too costly a scheme for an area with few Welsh speakers. Supporters of the scheme to provide bi-lingual versions of signs and official documents argued that it is a positive, not punitive, measure. Milford Haven was allegedly one of about 10 Welsh councils which opposed having to make such translations.^[24] In late November 2008, the town council agreed to implement the billingual scheme.^[25]

Attractions

Attractions in the town include Fort Hubberstone, built in 1863 to defend the port, the docks and marina, and the ruins of an observatory. The town museum, located centrally in the docks area, is housed in the town's oldest building, the Custom House which dates back to 1797.^[26] The town's main industry today is oil refining.

Milford Haven is also the natural harbour on which the town stands (and from which the town takes its name).

Since the mid 1990s tourism has provided a base for travellers, from which to explore the local coastline, and growing employment opportunities for locals.

The Torch Theatre, opened in 1970 and designed by local architect Monty Minter, is one of only three building-based producing theatres in the whole of Wales, and possesses its own independent theatre company^[27].

Torch Theatre

Hubberstone Fort at Gelliswick

Milford Marina at dusk

The Rath

Sport and Leisure

The town possesses a number of venues for sports and leisure. Milford Haven Leisure Centre offers facilities for a variety of sporting activities, including a 25 metre indoor swimming pool, squash and tennis courts, a bowls hall and dance studio.^[28]. The Thornton Hall, located at Milford Haven School, comprises an indoor sports hall and Artificial Turf Pitch. There are local rugby^[29] and football^[30] clubs. Nautical activies centre around the marina and Pembrokeshire Yacht Club, which is located in Gellyswick. There is a golf club on the outskirts of the town, which was founded in 1913^[31]

Sister-city relationship

Milford Haven is twinned as a twin-town with Romilly-sur-Seine, France and Uman, Ukraine.

View of Milford Haven town hall in winter

Town Mayor

Present Lord Mayor - Cllr Tony Eden (Officialy Appointed, Monday 18 May 2009)

Deputy Lord Mayor - Cllr Eric Harries (Officialy Appointed, Monday 18 May 2009).

Education

Milford Haven School ^[32] is a large comprehensive school of approx. 1200 pupils (inc. 6th form). Sarah Waters, the award-winning novelist was a pupil.

The school is well known for its contribution to the BBC's Children in Need appeal, having raised £20,384, £18,629,^[33] £16,659, £12,700 and £12,000 in 2008, 2007, 2006, 2005 and 2004 respectively.^{[citation needed]}

There are several primary schools in the town:

• Milford Haven Junior school
• Hakin Junior school
• St. Francis' Roman Catholic Primary School
• Hubberston Junior School
• Hakin Infants
• The Meads (Milford)
• The Mount (Estate) School (closed in January 2009).^[34]

Panorama

A panoramic view of Milford Haven, as seen from the north west of the town near Havens Head. Milford to left, and Hakin to right of picture.

Religion

Milford Haven identifies itself as almost exclusively Christian.^[35] Places of worship within the town include:^[36]

Anglican

• St Katharine and St Peter
• St David's Hubberston
• St Mary's, Hakin
• Church of the Holy Spirit, Hakin
• St Peter and St Cewydd, Steynton

Roman Catholic

• St Francis of Assisi, Priory Road
• St Claires, Hakin (Closed and Demolished 2000)

Baptist

• North Road Baptist Church
• Thornton Baptist Chapel

United Reformed Church

• Priory Road Methodist Church
• Hakin Point
• URC Tabernacle

Quakers

• Friends Meeting House

St Peter and St Cewydd, Steynton

St David's, Hubberston

Thomas a Beckett Chapel, built 1180

Priory Road Methodist Church

Districts

The town itself comprises a number of districts. Milford Haven is actually the more recent, with only a couple of extant buildings pre-dating 1790. Hakin and Hubberston are older, and situated to the west of the main town. Steynton is a medieval village to the north, no longer separated due to the expansion of houses. Lower Priory, with the remains of a very early religious priory, is located in a natural valley. Thornton can also be found near the priory.

Memorial to Fishermen on the Rath

Economy

Milford has seen many ups and downs. At the height of the fishing boom, it was said that "every day was a pay day".^[37] In 1921, 673 people were identified as working as fishermen^[38], by far the most common occupation in the town. The development of the oil industry also helped to boost the town's fortunes. However, the slumps have been just as severe. During the 80's and 90's, the town can be said to have become stagnant, with an unemployment rate which at times topped 30% and no major industry. Into the new millennium, its fortunes seem to have risen, as can be witnessed in the activity surrounding the impending LNG terminal, and all the new building works which accompany it and its connection to the controversial South Wales Gas Pipeline. In February 2003, Pembrokeshire Council granted outline planning permission to PetroPlus for an LNG storage depot at Waterston, and in March 2004, an additional site was approved at South Hook for ExxonMobil.^[39] International tourism has also increased, with the arrival of transatlantic liners and the revenue they introduce to the town. The Port Authority is aiming to double the number of cruise ships it handles in the period to 2011.^[40] The port handled 53 million tonnes of shipping in 2008.^[41], making in the largest port in Wales, and the sixth largest in the UK. There are two major commercial centres: Charles Street in the historic town centre, and the Havens Head retail park located at the foot of the docks area. The marina is gradually acquiring a commercial presence.

Transport

View of Milford Haven Railway Station, with Torch Theatre in left distance

Road

The principal thouroughfare in the town is the A4076, variously described as Hamilton Terrace, Great North Road and Steynton Road. It is the main link in and out of the town, beginning in the town centre and continuing to Haverfordwest. From there, the A40 and A48 can be used to connect with the M4 motorway. This provides access to Swansea, Cardiff and London. Alternatively, the A477 can be followed from Steynton, which follows a more southerly route. Crossing the Cleddau Toll Bridge, it joins the A40 at St Clears. The town centre's road system is based on a grid pattern and as such is relatively straighforward to navigate. There is ample car parking available. The route to Hakin and the western side of the town is via Victoria Bridge over the docks. The current bridge is actually the third version.

Bus

A number of bus routes pass through the town, operated by a combination of independent companies and Pembrokeshire County Council subsidies. Services include a town circular, Haverfordwest, Pembroke Dock and St Davids^[42]. National Express operate services to both London and Birmingham via Steynton^[42]

Rail

The town in served by Milford Haven railway station. The station, and all trains serving it, are operated by Arriva Trains Wales on the West Wales Line. It is the terminus, and from here, trains depart every two hours to Manchester Piccadilly via Carmarthen, Swansea, and Cardiff Central.

Water

The nearby ports of Pembroke Dock and Fishguard offer regular links to Ireland. Irish Ferries provides a Rosslare - Pembroke Dock route, and Stena Line operates between Rosslare - Fishguard.^[43].

Air

Haverfordwest Aerodrome, located some 12 miles north of the town, operates private hire and chartered services.^[44]. Cardiff International Airport offers regular flights to the rest of the UK, Europe and beyond.

Demographics And Population

A relatively small proportion of the community has a knowledge of the Welsh language. In 2001, from the Milford Central area only 7% of people claimed that they were fluent in the language.^[45] The area is not ethnically diverse, with 99.2% of people identifying themselves as white.^[46]

Climate

Milford Haven enjoys a mild climate. Its proximity to the coast contributes to wet winters, but it enjoys generous a amount of sunshine. The nearby village of Dale receives over 1,800 hours of sunshine a year.^[47]

Cultural references

Milford Haven often features in the plays of Shakespeare, notably Cymbeline [1].

The town lends its name to the fictional American town of Milford Haven, created by Mara Purl.

See also

• Milford Haven (harbour)
• Marquess of Milford Haven

References

External links

Wikimedia Commons has media related to: Milford Haven

• Milford Haven Town Council
• Milford Haven Port Authority
• Fort Hubberstone
• BBC Milford Haven Mini Site
• Pill Priory - A History

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