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mulch

 
Dictionary: mulch   (mŭlch) pronunciation
n.
A protective covering, usually of organic matter such as leaves, straw, or peat, placed around plants to prevent the evaporation of moisture, the freezing of roots, and the growth of weeds.

tr.v., mulched, mulch·ing, mulch·es.
To cover or surround with mulch.

[Probably from Middle English melsche, molsh, soft, from Old English melsc, mellow, mild.]


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Architecture: mulch
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Material such as leaves, hay, straw, or the like, spread over the surface of the ground to protect the roots of newly planted shrubs or trees, of tender plants, etc., from the sun or from the cold.


 
mulch, any material, usually organic, that is spread on the ground to protect the soil and the roots of plants from the effects of soil crusting, erosion, or freezing; it is also used to retard the growth of weeds. A mulch may be made of materials such as straw, sawdust, grass clippings, peat moss, leaves, or paper. For large areas under cultivation a tilled layer of soil serves the purpose of a mulch.



A layer of bark, peat moss, compost, shredded leaves, hay or straw, lawn clippings, gravel, paper, plastic, or other material spread over the soil around the base of plants. During the growing season, a mulch can help retard evaporation, inhibit weeds, and regulate soil temperature. In the winter, a mulch of evergreen boughs, coarse hay, or noncompacting leaves can help protect plants from heaving.

Wikipedia: Mulch
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In agriculture and gardening, mulch is a protective cover placed over the soil, primarily to modify the effects of the local climate. A wide variety of natural and synthetic materials are used.

Shredded wood used as mulch. This type of mulch is often dyed to improve its appearance in the landscape.
Pine needles used as mulch. Also called "pinestraw" in the southern US.

Contents

Purposes

Mulches are used for various agricultural and gardening purposes, they are applied to the soil surface. Properly used, they benefit plant growth and minimize garden labor. The main functions of mulches are the conservation of soil moisture and the moderation of soil temperature. They moderate internal soil temperatures by retaining heat from the day and radiating it to the soil at night during spring and fall; in the winter mulches moderate soil warming during the day, limiting the stress plants undergo during soil freezing and thawing cycles. They also are used to prevent frost heaving of unestablished plants in winter. During summer, they keep soil cool by blocking direct sunlight exposure of the soil surface. Mulches are used to block evaporation of water from the soil, slowing down soil drying. They also help control the growth of weeds, blocking sunlight and/or smothering weed seedlings under layers of material. Mulch also reflects sunlight back from the ground to the leaves of plants, they also provide a clean and dry surface for ground-lying fruits. They prevent soil erosion from heavy rains, prevent surface run-off of water, and prevent the direct impact of hard rains on the soil surface. Some mulches improve soil texture, adding humus. Organic mulches may add nutrients to the soil as they breakdown. Biodegradable mulches, as they decay, are incorporated into the soil where they provide air spaces and surfaces for fungi and root growth.[1]

While mulching may improve the growth of various plants by directly manipulating the plant's abiotic environment, mulch can also improve growth as an effective means of pest control. Various forms of mulch deter herbivorous insects and increase the numbers of beneficial insects [2].

Materials

Materials used as mulches vary and depend on a number of factors. Use takes into consideration availability, cost, appearance, the affect it has on the soil - including chemical reactions and pH, durability, combustibility, rate of decomposition, how clean it is - some can contain weed seeds or plant pathogens.[1]

Aged compost mulch on a flower bed

A variety of materials are used as mulch:

Crushed stone mulch
  • Compost: This should be fully composted material to avoid possible phytotoxicity problems, and the weed seed must have been eliminated, otherwise the mulch will actually produce weed cover.
  • Rubber mulch: made from recycled tire rubber.
  • Plastic mulch: crops grow through slits or holes in thin plastic sheeting. This method is predominant in large-scale vegetable growing, with millions of acres cultivated under plastic mulch worldwide each year (disposal of plastic mulch is cited as an environmental problem).
  • Rock and gravel can also be used as a mulch. In cooler climates the heat retained by rocks may extend the growing season.


Organic mulches

Organic mulches decay over time and are temporary. The way a particular organic mulch decomposes and reacts to wetting by rain and dew affects its usefulness. Organic mulches can negatively affect plant growth when they are decomposed rapidly by bacteria and fungi, which require nitrogen that they remove from the surrounding soil. Organic mulches also can mat down, forming a barrier that blocks water and air flow between the soil and the atmosphere. Some organic mulches can wick water from the soil to the surface, which can dry out the soil.

Commonly available organic mulches include:[1]

  • Leaves from deciduous trees, which drop their foliage in the fall. They tend to be dry and blow around in the wind, so are often chopped or shredded before application. As they decompose they adhere to each other but also allow water and moisture to seep down to the soil surface. Thick layers of entire leaves, especially of Maples and Oaks, can form a soggy mat in winter and spring which can impede the new growth lawn grass and other plants. Dry leaves are used as winter mulches to protect plants from freezing and thawing in areas with cold winters, they are normally removed during spring.
  • Grass clippings, from mowed lawns are sometimes collected and used elsewhere as mulch. Grass clippings are dense and tend to mat down, so are mixed with tree leaves or rough compost to provide aeration and to facilitate their decomposition without smelly putrefaction. Rotting fresh grass clippings can damage plants; their rotting often produces a damaging buildup of trapped heat. Grass clippings are often dried thoroughly before application, which mediates against rapid decomposition and excessive heat generation. Fresh green grass clippings are relatively high in nitrate content, and when used as a mulch, much of the nitrate is returned to the soil, but the routine removal of glass clippings from the lawn results in nitrogen deficiency for the lawn.
  • Peat moss or sphagnum peat, is long lasting and packaged, making it convenient and popular as a mulch. When wetted and dried, it can form a dense crust that does not allow water to soak in. When dry it can also burn, producing a smoldering fire. It is sometimes mixed with pine needles to produce a mulch that is friable. It can also lower the Ph of the soil surface, making it useful as a mulch under acid loving plants.
  • Wood chips, are a byproduct of the pruning of trees by arborists, utilities and parks; they are used to dispose of bulky waste. Tree branches and large stems are rather coarse after chipping and tend to be used as a mulch at least three inches thick. The chips are used to conserve soil moisture, moderate soil temperature and suppress weed growth. The decay of freshly produced chips from recently living woody plants, consumes nitrate; this is often off set with a light application of a high-nitrate fertilizer.
    Spring daffodils push through shredded wood mulch
    Wood chips are most often used under trees and shrubs. When used around soft stemmed plants, an unmulched zone is left around the plant stems to prevent stem rot or other possible diseases. They are often used to mulch trails, because they are readily produced with little additional cost outside of the normal disposal cost of tree maintenance.
  • Bark chips, of various grades are produced from the outer corky bark layer of timber trees. Sizes vary from thin shredded strands to large coarse blocks. The finer types are very attractive but have a large exposed surface area that leads to quicker decay. Layers two or three inches deep are usually used, bark is relativity inert and its decay does not demand soil nitrates.
  • Straw mulch or field hay or salt hay are lightweight and normally sold in compressed bales. They have an unkempt look and are used in vegetable gardens and as a winter covering. They are biodegradable and neutral in pH. They have good moisture retention and weed controlling properties but also are more likely to be contaminated with weed seeds. Salt hay is less likely to have weed seeds than field hay.

Application

Mulch is usually applied towards the beginning of the growing season, and may be reapplied as necessary. It serves initially to warm the soil by helping it retain heat. This allows early seeding and transplanting of certain crops, and encourages faster growth. As the season progresses, the mulch stabilizes temperature and moisture, and prevents sunlight from supporting germinated weed seed.

Plastic mulch used in large-scale commercial production is laid down with a tractor-drawn or standalone layer of plastic mulch. This is usually part of a sophisticated mechanical process, where raised beds are formed, plastic is rolled out on top, and seedlings are transplanted through it. Drip irrigation is often required, with drip tape laid under the plastic, as plastic mulch is impermeable to water.

In home gardens and smaller farming operations, organic mulch is usually spread by hand around emerged plants. For materials like straw and hay, a shredder may be used to chop up the material. Organic mulches are usually piled quite high, six inches (152 mm) or more, and settle over the season.

In some areas of the United States, such as central Pennsylvania and northern California, mulch is often referred to as "tanbark", even by manufacturers and distributors. In these areas, the word "mulch" is used specifically to refer to very fine tanbark or peat moss.

Mulch made with wood can contain or feed termites, so care must be taken about not placing mulch too close to houses or building that can be damaged by those insects. Some mulch manufacturers recommend putting mulch several inches away from buildings.

Sour mulch

Mulch should normally smell like freshly cut wood, but sometimes develops a toxicity that causes it to smell like vinegar, ammonia, sulfur or silage. This happens when material with ample nitrogen content is not rotated often enough and it forms pockets of increased decomposition. When this occurs, the process may become anaerobic and produce these phytotoxic materials in small quantities. Once exposed to the air, the process quickly reverts to an aerobic process, but these toxic materials may be present for a period of time. If the mulch is placed around plants before the toxicity has had a chance to dissipate, then the plants could very likely be damaged or killed depending on their hardiness. Plants that are predominantly low to the ground or freshly planted are the most susceptible, and the phytotoxicity may prevent germination of some seeds.[3]

If sour mulch is applied and there is plant kill, the best thing to do is to water the mulch heavily. Water dissipates the chemicals faster and refreshes the plants. Removing the offending mulch may have little effect, because by the time plant kill is noticed, most of the toxicity is already dissipated. While testing after plant kill will not likely turn up anything, a simple pH check may reveal high acidity, in the range of 3.8 to 5.6 instead of the normal range of 6.0 to 7.2. Finally, placing a bit of the offending mulch around another plant to check for plant kill will verify if the toxicity has departed. If the new plant is also killed, then sour mulch is probably not the problem.

Living mulch

Living mulches are plants sown to grow close to the ground, under the main crop, to slow the development of weeds and provide other benefits of mulch. They are usually fast-growing plants that continue growing with the main crops. By contrast, cover crops are incorporated into the soil or killed with herbicides. However, living mulches too may need to be mechanically or chemically killed eventually to prevent competition with the main crop (Brandsaeter et al. 1998, Tharp and Kells, 2001).

Standardization of the products

References

  1. ^ a b c Louise; Bush-Brown, James (1996), America's garden book, New York: Macmillan USA, pp. 768, ISBN 002860995-6 
  2. ^ Brown, Mark; Tworkoski, Thomas (2004), Pest Management Benefits of Compost Mulch in Orchards, United States Department of Agriculture 
  3. ^ Beware of Sour Mulch

See also

External links


Translations: Mulch
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Dansk (Danish)
n. - dækningsmateriale (træflis/plast)
v. tr. - dække med træflis/plast

Nederlands (Dutch)
(verrot) stro, met stro bedekken

Français (French)
n. - paillis
v. tr. - pailler

Deutsch (German)
n. - Mulch
v. - mulchen

Ελληνική (Greek)
n. - (στρώμα από) νοτισμένα φύλλα ή άχυρο για εμπλουτισμό του εδάφους, στρώνω, σκεπάζω με άχυρα, ξερά φύλλα
v. - στρώνω, σκεπάζω με άχυρα ή ξερά φύλλα

Italiano (Italian)
riparo di paglia, concime organico, riparare (le radici di una pianta) con paglia, foglie o terriccio

Português (Portuguese)
n. - forragem (f)
v. - proteger com palha

Русский (Russian)
мульча, мульчировать

Español (Spanish)
n. - mantillo, compost
v. tr. - cubrir con mantillo, cubrir con compost

Svenska (Swedish)
n. - komposttäckning, gödselhalm
v. - täcka över med kompostmaterial

中文(简体)(Chinese (Simplified))
护盖物, 根篱, 护根, 铺护盖物, 做护根

中文(繁體)(Chinese (Traditional))
n. - 護蓋物, 根籬, 護根
v. tr. - 鋪護蓋物, 做護根

한국어 (Korean)
n. - 뿌리 덮개
v. tr. - 뿌리 덮개로 덮다

日本語 (Japanese)
n. - マルチ, マルチング, 根おおい
v. - 根囲いをする

العربيه (Arabic)
‏(الاسم) سماد طبيعي, زبل (فعل) يسمد, يزبل‏

עברית (Hebrew)
n. - ‮רובד של קש, עלים וכו'‬
v. tr. - ‮כיסה (אדמה) ברובד קש ועלים כדי לבודדה ולהעשירה‬


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Dictionary. The American Heritage® Dictionary of the English Language, Fourth Edition Copyright © 2007, 2000 by Houghton Mifflin Company. Updated in 2009. Published by Houghton Mifflin Company. All rights reserved.  Read more
Architecture. McGraw-Hill Dictionary of Architecture and Construction. Copyright © 2003 by McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc. All rights reserved.  Read more
Columbia Encyclopedia. The Columbia Electronic Encyclopedia, Sixth Edition Copyright © 2003, Columbia University Press. Licensed from Columbia University Press. All rights reserved. www.cc.columbia.edu/cu/cup/ Read more
Gardener's Dictionary. Taylor's Dictionary for Gardeners, by Frances Tenenbaum. Copyright © 1997 by Houghton Mifflin Company. Published by Houghton Mifflin Company. All rights reserved.  Read more
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