Palau

 

(pälou') , officially Republic of Palau, independent nation (2005 est. pop. 20,300), c.192 sq mi (497 sq km), W Pacific, in the W Caroline Islands. Belau, the native form of Palau, is sometimes used. Until 1994, Palau was administered by the United States as the last UN trust territory. It consists of about 200 islands and islets, of which Babeldaob (or Babelthuap, the site of the capital), Oreor (or Koror, the former site of the capital), Arakabesan, and Malakal are the most important.

Palauans (about 70% of the population) are predominantly Micronesian with a mix of Malayan and Melanesian strains. There are minorities of Filipinos, Chinese, and other Asians. Palauan is the official language, but English and other languages are also spoken. Roman Catholicism and Protestantism are the predominant religions.

Tourism, subsistence farming, and fishing and shellfishing are the chief economic activities. Machinery and equipment, fuels, and foodstuffs are imported. The United States provides considerable financial assistance and is Palau's largest trading partner, followed by Singapore and Japan.

Palau is governed under the constitution of 1981. The president, who is both head of state and head of government, is elected by popular vote for a four-year term and is eligible for a second term. The bicameral Parliament consists of the nine-seat Senate and the 16-seat House of Delegates; all members are popularly elected for four-year terms. Administratively, the islands are divided into 16 states. Defense is the responsibility of the United States.

History

Spain held the islands for about 300 years before selling them to Germany in 1899. Japan seized them in 1914 and was given a mandate over them by the League of Nations in 1920. A major Japanese naval base in World War II, Palau was seized by U.S. forces in 1944 and made part of the U.S.-administered United Nations Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands in 1947. Palau became self-governing in 1981. Palau's constitution prohibits nuclear weapons, causing a conflict with the Free Association Compact proposed by the United States in 1985–86. The islands voted in favor of the compact in 1987, but the referendum failed to garner the 75% of the votes then required. In a new plebiscite held in 1993 the compact was approved, opening the door to closer official linkage with the United States. The following year Palau became an independent nation in free association with the United States. Tommy Remengesau, Jr., was elected president in 2000, succeeding Kuniwo Nakamura, and reelected in 2004. The capital was moved from Oreor to Babeldoab in 2006.

Coordinates: 7°20′59″N, 134°30′35″E

Beluu er a Belau Republic of Palau
Flag Coat of arms
Anthem Belau loba klisiich er a kelulul
Capital		Melekeok1 7°21′N, 134°28′E
Largest city		Koror
Official languages		English, Palauan, Japanese (in Angaur)
Demonym		Palauan
Government		Constitutional government in free association with the USA
-	President	Tommy Remengesau
Independence		from UN Trust Territory
-	Date	October 1, 1994
Area
-	Total	km² (195th)  sq mi
-	Water (%)	negligible
Population
-	July 2007 estimate	20,842 (217th)
-	Density	43/km² (155th)  /sq mi
GDP (PPP)		2006 estimate
-	Total	$157.7 million² (not ranked)
-	Per capita	$10,000 (2006 est.) (not ranked)
HDI (2003)		n/a (unranked) (n/a)
Currency		US Dollar (USD)
Time zone		(UTC+9)
Internet TLD		.pw
Calling code		[[+680]]
1 On 7 October 2006, government officials moved their offices in the former capital of Koror to Melekeok, located  km ( mi) northeast of Koror on Babelthaup Island. ² GDP estimate includes US subsidy (2004 est.)

Palau (IPA: [pɑˈlaʊ], [pəˈlaʊ]), officially the Republic of Palau (Palauan: Beluu er a Belau), is an island nation in the Pacific Ocean, some 500 miles (800 km) east of the Philippines and 2000 miles (3200 km) south of Tokyo. Having emerged from United Nations trusteeship (administered by the United States) in 1994, it is one of the world's youngest and smallest nations. It is sometimes referred to in English under its native name Belau.

History

Main article: History of Palau

Archaeology

Early Palauans may have come from Australia, Polynesia and Asia. Depending on the thread of the family, Palauans may indeed represent many parts of Melanesia, Micronesia and Polynesia. However, it is traditionally considered to be Micronesian. According to geneticists, there are two distinctive strains of Melanesian bloodlines: one is associated with indigenous Australians/Papua New Guineans and the other is known to have originated in Asia. There has not been any link established between the two.

Until recently, Palau was not considered a part of Micronesia. In the European and Australian world Belau/Pelew is better known by the name of "The Black Islands". Vintage maps and village drawings can be found at the Australian library online, as well as photos of the tattooed and pierced Ibedul of Koror and Ludee.

Carbon dating and recent archaeological discoveries have brought new attention to the archipelago. Cemeteries uncovered in islands have shown Palau has the oldest burial ceremony known to Oceania. Prior to this there has been much dispute as to whether Palau was established during 2500 BC or 1000 BC. New studies seem to dispute both of these findings. Moreover, Palau's ancient trading partner, Java, has also come under close scrutiny since Homo floresiensis was found.

For thousands of years, Palauans have had a well established matrilineal society, believed to have descended from Javanese precedents. Traditionally, land, money, and titles passed through the female line. Clan lands continue to be passed through titled women and first daughters but there is also a modern patrilineal sentiment introduced by imperial Japan. The Japanese government attempted to confiscate and redistribute tribal land into personal ownership during World War II, and there has been little attempt to restore the old order. Legal entanglements continue amongst the various clans.^[1]

European contact

Historians take much interest in the navigational routes of European explorers. One such mystery has created much speculation as to whether Spanish explorer Ruy López de Villalobos spotted the islands in 1543. No conclusive evidence exists but there are some who think he could have seen the tip of a southernmost island in the group.

Palau was one of the last of the South Sea islands to be discovered—not only due to a lack of navigation skill but because neighboring islands knew nothing about Melanesia. Palau had limited relations—mainly with Yap and Java.

Had it not have been for ship-wrecked islanders who accidentally took refuge in the Philippines, Europeans likely would not have found a route to Palau until much later. English Captain Henry Wilson also shipwrecked off the island of Ulong in 1783.^[2] Wilson dubbed Palau the “Pelew Islands”.

Spanish rule

Like Guam, the Mariana Islands, Micronesia and the Marshall Islands, Palau was part of the Spanish East Indies, and was governed from the Spanish Philippines until the Spanish-American War of 1898.

In 1885, after Germany occupied some of the islands, a dispute was brought to Pope Leo XIII, who made an attempt to legitimize Spanish claim to the islands (but with economic concessions for Britain and Germany). Spain in 1899, after defeat during the Spanish-American War, sold the islands to Germany.^[3][4]

Japanese rule

In 1914, Japan invaded the islands, then formally took over under the Treaty of Versailles after the WWI German defeat. Over three decades, the Japanese enforced cultural change. Introduction of an exclusive market economy geared towards Japanese citizens temporarily revoked tribal ownership.^[5] Although some reparation was made, defeat did not restore complete order. U.S. intervention only served to widen the legal semantics needed to recover from such an event spanning three different countries with three different tongues.

World War II

Peleliu was the scene of a costly battle between American and Japanese forces in 1944, resulting in an Allied victory, though the cost in human terms was high for both sides. After WWII, the United Nations played a role in deciding the U.S. would administer Palau as part of the Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands. Eventually, in 1979, Palauans voted against joining the Federated States of Micronesia based on language and cultural differences. After a long period of transition, including the violent deaths of two presidents (Haruo Remeliik in 1985 and Lazarus Salii in 1988), Palau voted to freely associate with the United States in 1994 while opting to retain independence under the Compact of Free Association.

There are still roughly 100 American service members listed as Missing In Action (MIA) in Palau since WWII. Since 1993, a small group of American volunteers called The BentProp Project have searched the waters and jungles of Palau to attempt to locate information that can lead to the identification and recovery of remains of these American MIAs.

Government

Main article: Politics of Palau

Politics of Palau takes place in a framework of a presidential representative democratic republic, whereby the President of Palau is both head of state and head of government, and of a pluriform multi-party system. Executive power is exercised by the government. Legislative power is vested in both the government and the Palau National Congress. The Judiciary is independent of the executive and the legislature.

Palau Capital Complex	Front Columns	Capital Hallways	Judiciary Building
Executive Complex	Palau Capital Building

Foreign relations

Palau gained its independence October 1, 1994 when the Compact of Free Association with the United States came into force. Palau was the last Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands territories to gain its independence. Under the Compact, the U.S. remains responsible for Palau's defense for 50 years.

Palau is a sovereign nation and conducts its own foreign relations. Since independence, Palau has established diplomatic relations with a number of nations, including many of its Pacific neighbors. Palau was admitted to the United Nations on December 15, 1994, and has since joined several other international organizations. In September 2006, Palau hosted the first Taiwan-Pacific Allies Summit, and its President has gone on several official visits to other Pacific countries, including Taiwan.

Nuclear-free constitution

In 1981, Palau voted for the world's first nuclear-free constitution. However, this delayed Palau's independence as it also wanted a Compact of Free Association with the United States, which the U.S. would not agree to as long as the anti-nuclear clause was in place; thus the United Nations delayed terminating the U.S. trusteeship. Palauan independence was finally achieved after the anti-nuclear clause was repealed.

One of the notable aspects of the Palaun resistance to nuclear research is the leadership of women activists such as Cita Morei and Isabella Sumang.^{[citation needed]}

States

Main article: States of Palau

Palau is divided into sixteen states (until 1984 called municipalities):

Aimeliik Airai Angaur Hatohobei Kayangel Koror Melekeok Ngaraard

Ngarchelong Ngardmau Ngatpang Ngchesar Ngeremlengui Ngiwal Peleliu Sonsorol

The uninhabited Rock Islands of Palau have historically been part of the State of Koror.

Geography

Main article: Geography of Palau

Palau's most populated islands are Angaur, Babeldaob, Koror, and Peleliu. The latter three lie together within the same barrier reef, while Angaur is an Oceanic Island several miles to the South. About two-thirds of the population lives on Koror. The coral atoll of Kayangel is situated north of these islands, while the uninhabited Rock Islands (about 200) are situated to the west of the main island group. A remote group of six islands, known as the Southwest Islands, some 375 miles (600 km) from the main islands, are also part of the country and make up the States of Hatohobei and Sonsorol.

Climate

Palau enjoys a tropical climate all year round with an annual mean temperature of 82 °F (27 °C). Rainfall can occur throughout the year, averaging a total of 150 inches (3,800 mm). The average humidity over the course of the year is 82%, and although rain falls more frequently between July and October, there is still much sunshine. Typhoons are rare, as Palau is outside the main typhoon zone.

Environment

While much of Palau's natural environment remains free of environmental degradation, there are several areas of concern, including illegal fishing with the use of dynamite, inadequate facilities for disposal of solid waste in Koror, and extensive sand and coral dredging in the Palau lagoon. Like the other Pacific island nations, a major environmental threat is global warming and the related rising of sea level. Water coverage of low-lying areas is a threat to coastal vegetation, agriculture, and the purity of the nation's water supply. Palau also has a problem with inadequate water supply and limited agricultural areas to support the size of the population. The nation is also vulnerable to earthquakes, volcanic activity, and tropical storms. Sewage treatment is a problem, along with the handling of toxic waste from fertilizers and biocides.

On November 5 2005, President of Palau Tommy E. Remengesau, Jr. took the lead on a regional environmental initiative called the Micronesia challenge, which would conserve 30 percent of near shore coastal waters and 20 percent of forest land by 2020. In addition to Palau, the initiative was joined by the Federated States of Micronesia and Marshall Islands, and the U.S. territories of Guam and Northern Mariana Islands. Together, this combined region represents nearly 5 percent of the marine area of the Pacific Ocean and 7 percent of its coastlines.

Economy

Main article: Economy of Palau

The economy consists primarily of tourism, subsistence agriculture, and fishing. Tourist activity focuses on scuba diving and snorkeling in the islands' rich marine environment, including the Floating Garden Islands to the west of Koror and the Rock Islands to the south. The government is the major employer of the work force, relying heavily on financial assistance from the US. Business and tourist arrivals numbered 50,000 in the financial year 2000/2001. The population enjoys a per capita income twice that of the Philippines and much of Micronesia. Long-term prospects for the key tourist sector have been greatly bolstered by the expansion of air travel in the Pacific, the rising prosperity of leading East Asian countries, and the willingness of foreigners to finance infrastructure development.

In July 2004, Palau Micronesia Air was launched with service from Palau to Yap, Guam, Micronesia, Saipan, Australia, and the Philippines. It was thought of giving Continental Micronesia a run for its money due to the low fares which it offered to its passengers, however it has ceased operations in December of the same year, mainly because the airline began operating at a time where fuel prices were skyrocketing and also because the cost of operation had been much more than anticipated. Palau Micronesia Air has not restarted operations since but has made a codeshare alliance with Asian Spirit, a carrier that operates flights between Palau and the Philippines (Davao, Cebu, and Manila) and is much more affordable than Continental Micronesia. There are two flight weekly Manila via Cebu to Palau and one flight weekly from Davao. The flight costs $230 from Davao and $280 from Manila with one week advance booking. (Stand May 4. 2007)

Demographics

Main article: Demographics of Palau

The population of Palau is approximately 21,000, of whom 70% are native Palauans, who are of mixed Melanesian, Micronesian, and Polynesian descent. Filipinos form the second largest ethnic group. Other Asians and Europeans account for the minority groups.

Three quarters of the population are Christians (mainly Catholics and Protestants), while Modekngei (a combination of Christianity, traditional Palauan religion and fortune telling) and the ancient Palauan religion are commonly observed. According to the 2005 census^[1] 49.4% of the population are Catholics, 21.3% Protestants, 8.7% Modekngei and 5.3% Seventh-day Adventists.

The official languages of Palau are Palauan and English, except for two states (Sonsorol and Hatohobei) where the local language, along with Palauan, is official. Japanese is also spoken widely amongst older Palauans. Wikang Filipino is not official in Palau, but it is the 4th largest spoken language.

Culture

Main articles: Culture of Palau and Music of Palau

See also: Palauan language

Libraries and museums

There is a small public library in Koror, with a collection comprising about 17,000 books. The Belau National Museum, established in 1973, is also located in Koror.

Transportation

Palau International Airport provides scheduled direct flights to Guam, Taipei and Manila. There are two other airports in the country, both with unpaved runways.

Freight and cruise ships call at Malakal Harbor, on Malakal Island outside Koror.

The country has no railways, and almost half of the roads are unpaved (of the  km/ mi of highways, only  km/ mi are paved). Driving is on the right and the speed limit is 40 km/h (25 mph). Taxis are available in Koror. They are not metered and fares are fixed. Only Koror maintains a bus service. Transportation between islands mostly relies on private boats.

Gallery

It has been suggested that this section be split into a new article. (Discuss)

Rock islands of Palau.	Divers descending into the main cavern of Blue Hole.	A Tridacna giant clam.	Divers descending next to the mast of the Japanese tanker Iro.
An Anenomefish on the wreck of the Japanese tanker Iro.	Diver and large Moon jellyfish, Jellyfish Lake.	Diver and jellyfish, Jellyfish Lake.	Jellyfish in Jellyfish Lake.
Diver and Nautilus, German Channel.	Nudibranch on sea fan.	Soft corals growing on vertical wall.	Closeup of soft coral.
Starfish on soft coral.	Diver and large table coral.	Divers on a vertical wall, Peleliu Island.	One of the many Rock Islands.
Channel between the Rock Islands.

See also

• Dive sites of Palau
• Foreign relations of Palau
• List of Palauans
• List of radio stations in Palau
• Military of Palau
• Palau at the Olympics
• Public holidays in Palau
• Scouting in Palau
• BentProp Project
• Micronesia challenge
• Palau Community College
• Communications in Palau
• Transportation in Palau

References

External links

• Mybelau.com - A place for palauans
• Official Site of the Republic of Palau
• Palau National Congress - Olbiil Era Kelulau, Senate
• Elizabeth Bassett's Palau website
• My Micronesia.com’s Palau section
• Olekoi Palau
• Palauan Embassy to the United States
• Palauan Pride.com
• Lonely Planet WorldGuide Profile
• WWFM 89.5 Radio Palau
• East Japanese Beads as Palau Heirlooms
• Palau photographs
• Travel Notes - Runoko Rashidi in the Republic of Palau
• Palau Postcards From the Field
• Palauan Recording Studio in Honolulu, HI
• Info on visiting Palau
• Color Coins of Palau

Countries and territories of Oceania

Australasia Australia · Christmas Island · Cocos (Keeling) Islands · New Zealand1 · Norfolk Island Melanesia Fiji · Indonesia (Maluku Islands) · New Caledonia · Papua New Guinea2 · Solomon Islands · Vanuatu Micronesia Federated States of Micronesia · Guam · Kiribati · Marshall Islands · Nauru · Northern Mariana Islands · Palau Polynesia American Samoa · Cook Islands · French Polynesia · Niue · Pitcairn · Samoa · Tokelau · Tonga · Tuvalu · Wallis and Futuna 1 Often included in Polynesia · 2 New Guinea is often included in Australasia

Austronesian-speaking countries and territories
Formosan  Republic of China Malayo-Polynesian  American Samoa  Brunei  Burma  Cambodia  Christmas Island  Cocos (Keeling) Islands  Cook Islands  Easter Island  East Timor  Fiji  French Polynesia  Guam  Hainan Island  Hawaii  Indonesia  Kiribati  Madagascar  Malaysia