The Bois de Boulogne

Paris: Getting Oriented: Paris by Neighborhood: Place des Victoires & Palais Royal: The Bois de Boulogne

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Once used exclusively as the royal hunting grounds, the vast Bois de Boulogne is one of the “lungs” of Paris, with over 2,000 acres of forested parkland. When it was first opened to the public under Louis XIV, the park had a reputation for sheltering bandits and prostitutes, but eventually attracted high society, who built the mansions and elegant pavilions still surrounding it today. The park deteriorated during the Revolution, and its forests were devastated by the occupying British and Russian army camps in 1815. It was under Napoleon III that it was given its current design with racecourses and wide avenues. He instructed Haussmann to recreate the same winding paths, ornamental lakes and lush gardens found in London’s Hyde Park, and the Bois de Boulogne once again became the favorite strolling grounds for genteel Parisians.

AUTHOR’S NOTE: The Bois de Boulogne, like other parks in Paris, lost many trees during the storm of December 1999 and the heat wave of August 2003. Sections of the forest may therefore be closed off to protect newly planted seedlings.

The Bois de Boulogne is the perfect starting point for discovering the greener side of Paris. But it’s not the kind of place where you show up without some sort of plan, because you could wander around in the park all day and still miss the interesting sights. Decide in advance how you’ll get around. There are three métro and three RER-C stations – Porte Maillot, Porte d’Auteuil, and Porte Dauphine – on the Paris edge of the park. If you’re going to a specific place in the park, it’s best to know which is closest (there are also buses that run throughout the park from outside the métro and RER stations). This still involves a lot of walking. The best way to see multiple sights and explore the forest trails is by bicycle. There’s a paved cycle path circling the entire park, but you also have the option of riding on the roads open to traffic and along the unpaved forest trails. The Bois de Boulogne has plenty of snack bars and upscale restaurants, but not much in between. Make like a Parisian and pack a picnic!

Major Sights

The Lac Inférieur (Route de Suresnes, M° Porte Dauphine or RER Henri Martin) is the park’s largest lake, with two forested islands in the center that can be reached by ferry or rowboat. Just below is La Grande Cascade, a man-made (yet impressive) waterfall, and the much smaller Lac Supérieur.

The romantic Pré Catalan gardens (Route de Suresnes, M° Ranelagh or RER Henri Martin) at the center of the park feature shady lawns, a Shakespeare Garden with open-air theater, and some of the oldest trees in the park. The beautiful Belle Epoque pavilion was originally built for Napoleon III, and now houses the Michelin-starred Pré Catalan restaurant.

The Jardin des Serres d’Auteuil (corner of Avenue Gordon Bennett and Avenue de la Porte d’Auteuil, M° Porte d’Auteuil, ☎ 01 40 71 75 23) has three beautiful 19th-century glass and wrought-iron tropical greenhouses set in formal French gardens. There are regular musical concerts in the summer. Open daily from 8am on weekdays and 9am on weekends (closing hours vary from 5:30pm in winter to 9:30pm in summer). Entry €1(€0.50 for students ages seven to 25, free for kids under seven), or €3 (and €1.50) during concerts.

The botanical gardens of the Parc de Bagatelle (Route de Sèvres-à-Neuilly or Allée de Longchamp, M° Porte Maillot and Bus 244, ☎ 08 20 00 75 75) hosts the annual international rose competition in June. There are many small paths winding through the greenery, with an adorable vegetable garden and cottage, flower covered pergolas, romantic lakes and an elegant 18th-century château used for garden exhibitions. Ask for a map at the entrance. Open daily from 8am on weekdays and 9am on weekends (closing hours vary from 5:30pm in winter to 9:30pm in summer). Entry €1 (€0.50 for students ages seven to 25, free for kids under seven), or €3 (and €1.50) during concerts.

The Jardin d’Acclimatation (M° Porte Maillot, ☎ 01 40 67 90 82, www.jardindacclimatation.fr) is an amusement park open year-round with its own gardens, zoo, museums, pony rides and restaurants (see the Family Entertainment section for detailed information). Open daily, 10am to 6pm (until 7pm in summer); entry €2.50.

Sporting venues in the Bois de Boulogne include the Rolland Garros Tennis Stadium and Tenniseum Museum (Boulevard d’Auteuil, M° Porte d’Auteuil, ☎ 01 47 43 48 00), the historic Hippodrome de Longchamp (Route des Tribunes, M° Porte d’Auteuil or Bus 244, ☎ 08 21 21 32 13) and the Hippodrome d’Auteuil (Route des Lacs, M° Porte d’Auteuil, ☎ 08 21 21 32 13). Entrance to the regular season of horseracing is free at both racetracks. See the Entertainment section for more detailed information on the races and tours of the Rolland Garros Stadium.

WARNING! It’s best to avoid nocturnal cruising along the roads of the Bois de Boulogne if you find the sight of transvestite streetwalkers upsetting (although tough new laws have greatly cut down on this over the past few years).

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