- For the ESA space probe see Philae lander.
Philae (Greek: Φιλαί) or Pilak or P'aaleq
(Egyptian: remote place or the end or the angle island) or
Arabic: Anas el Wagud, is an island in the
Nile River and the previous site of an Ancient
Egyptian temple complex in southern Egypt. The complex is
now located on the nearby island of Agilika.
Situation
Philae is mentioned by numerous ancient writers, including Strabo (i. p. 40, xvii. pp. 803,
818, 820), Diodorus (i. 22), Ptolemy (iv. 5. §
74), Seneca (Quaest. Nat. iv. 1), Pliny the
Elder (v. 9. s. 10), and was, as the plural name both in the Greek and Latin denotes, the
appellation of two small islands situated in latitude 24° North, just above the cataract of Syene.
Groskurd (Strab. vol. iii. p. 399) computes the distance between these islands and Syene
at about 61.5 miles (99 km).
Philae proper, although the smaller island, is, from the numerous and picturesque ruins formerly there, the more interesting
of the two. Prior to the inundation, it was not more than 1250 English feet, or rather less than a quarter of a mile, long, and
about 400 feet broad. It is composed of Syenite stone: its sides are steep and perhaps escarped by the hand of man, and on their
summits was built a lofty wall encompassing the island.
For Philae, being accounted one of the burying-places of Osiris, was held in high reverence
both by the Egyptians to the north and the Ethiopians (Aethopians in Greek) to the south, and
it was deemed profane for any but priests to dwell therein, and was accordingly sequestered and denominated the
unapproachable (̓́αβατος, Plut. Is. et Osir. p, 359; Diod.
i. 22). It was reported too that neither birds flew over it nor fish approached its shores. (Senec. Quaest. Nat. iv. 2.) These
indeed were the traditions of a remote period; since in the time of the Macedonian
kings of Egypt, Philae was so much resorted to, partly by pilgrims to the tomb of Osiris, partly by persons on secular
errands, that the priests petitioned Ptolemy Physcon (170-117 BC) to prohibit public functionaries at least from coming thither and
living at their expense. The obelisk on which this petition was engraved was brought into
England by Mr. Bankes, and its hieroglyphics,
compared with those of the Rosetta stone, threw great light upon the Egyptian phonetic
alphabet.
The islands of Philae were not, however, merely sacerdotal abodes; they were the centres of commerce also between
Meroë and Memphis. For the rapids of the cataracts were at
most seasons impracticable, and the commodities exchanged between Egypt and Ethiopia were reciprocally landed and re-embarked at
Syene and Philae.
The neighbouring granite-quarries attracted hither also a
numerous population of miners and stonemasons; and, for the convenience of this traffic, a gallery or road was formed in the
rocks along the east bank of the Nile, portions of which are still extant.
Philae also was remarkable for the singular effects of light and shade resulting from its position near the Tropic of Cancer. As the sun approached its northern limit the shadows from the projecting cornices and
mouldings of the temples sink lower and lower down the plain surfaces of the walls, until, the sun having reached its highest
altitude, the vertical walls are overspread with dark shadows, forming a striking contrast with the fierce light which embathes
all surrounding objects. (Ritter, Erdkunde, vol. i. p. 680, seq.)
Construction
Complex viewed from southeast, ca.
1890
Trajan's Kiosk inside the temple of Philae
Panoramic view at the Philae Temple
The most conspicuous feature of both islands was their architectural wealth. Monuments of very various eras, extending from
the Pharaohs to the Caesars, occupy nearly their whole area. The principal structures, however, lay at the south end of the
smaller island.
The most ancient were the remains of a temple for Hathor built in the reign of
Nectanebo I during 380-362 BCE, was approached from the river through a double colonnade.
Nekhtnebef is his Homen and he became the founding pharaoh of the
thirtieth and last dynasty of native rulers when he deposed and killed Nefaarud II. Hathor
is named alternatively, Athor, and was associated with their goddess, Aphrodite, by the
Greeks.
For the most part, the other ruins date from the Ptolemaic times, more especially with the reigns of Ptolemy Philadelphus, Ptolemy Epiphanes, and
Ptolemy Philometor (282-145 BC), with many traces of Roman work in Philae dedicated to Ammon-Osiris.
In front of the propyla were two colossal lions in granite, behind which stood a pair of
obelisks, each 44 feet high. The propyla were pyramidal in form and colossal in dimensions. One stood between the dromos and
pronaos, another between the pronaos and the portico, while a smaller one led into the sekos or adytum. At each corner of the
adyturn stood a monolithal shrine, the cage of a sacred hawk. Of these shrines one is now in the Louvre, the other in the Museum at Florence.
Beyond the entrance into the principal court are small temples or rather chapels, one of which, dedicated to Hathor (Athor),
is covered with sculptures representing the birth of Ptolemy Philometor, under the figure of the god Horus. The story of Osiris is everywhere represented on the walls of this temple,
and two of its inner chambers are particularly rich in symbolic imagery. Upon the two great propyla are Greek inscriptions
intersected and partially destroyed by Egyptian figures cut across them.
The inscriptions belong to the Macedonian era, and are of earlier date than the sculptures, which were probably inserted
during that interval of renaissance for the native religion which followed the extinction of the Greek dynasty in Egypt in
30 BC by the Romans.
The monuments in both islands indeed attested, beyond any others in the Nile-valley, the survival of pure Egyptian art
centuries after the last of the Pharaohs had ceased to reign. Great pains have been taken to mutilate the sculptures of this
temple. The work of demolition is attributable, in the first instance, to the zeal of the early Christians, and afterward, to the policy of the Iconoclasts, who curried
favour for themselves with the Byzantine court by the destruction of heathen, as well
as, Christian images.
The soil of Philae had been prepared carefully for the reception of its buildings–being levelled where it was uneven, and
supported by masonry where it was crumbling or insecure. For example, the western wall of the Great Temple, and the corresponding
wall of the dromos, were supported by very strong foundations, built below the pre-inundation level of the water, and rested on
the granite which in this region forms the bed of the Nile. Here and there steps were hewn out from the wall to facilitate the
communication between the temple and the river.
At the southern extremity of the dromos of the Great Temple was a smaller temple, apparently dedicated to Isis; at least the few columns that remained of it are surmounted with the head of that goddess. Its portico
consisted of twelve columns, four in front and three deep. Their capitals represented various forms and combinations of the
palm branch, the dhoum-leaf, and the lotus-flower. These, as well as the sculptures
on the columns, the ceilings, and the walls were painted with the most vivid colors, which, owing to the dryness of the climate,
have lost little of their original brilliance.
History
Pharaonic era
The ancient Egyptian name of the smaller island is Philak, or boundary. As their southern frontier, the
Pharaohs of Egypt kept there a strong garrison, and, for the same reason, it was a barrack also
for Macedonian and Roman soldiers in their turn. The first temple structure, which was
built by native pharaohs of the thirtieth dynasty, was the one for Hathor.
Greco-Roman era
The island temple construction at Philae was continued over a three-century period by the Greek Ptolemaic dynasty and the rulers of the Roman Principate. The
principal deity of the temple complex was Isis, but other temples and shrines were dedicated to her
son Horus and the goddess Hathor. In Ptolemaic times Hathor was
associated with Isis, who was in turn associated with the Greek goddess Aphrodite. For
centuries the temple complex was the holiest site for Isis worshippers. The temple was closed down officially in the
6th century A.D. by the Byzantine
emperor, Justinian. It was the last pagan temple to
exist in the Mediterranean world (although a Roman temple to Isis remained in England). Philae was a seat of the Christian
religion as well as of the ancient Egyptian faith. Ruins of a Christian church were still discovered, and more than one adytum
bore traces of having been made to serve at different eras the purposes of a chapel of Osiris and of Christ. The Philae temple was converted into a church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, until that was closed by Muslim invaders in the
7th century.
1800s
The temple of Philae, from
Description de L'Egypte, 1800
The island of Philae attracted much attention in the nineteenth century. In the 1820s, Joseph Bonomi the Younger, a British Egyptologist and
museum curator visited the island. So did Amelia Edwards, a British novelist in 1873–1874|4.
- The approach by water is quite the most beautiful. Seen from the level of a small boat, the island, with its palms, its
colonnades, its pylons, seems to rise out of the river like a mirage. Piled rocks frame it on either side, and the purple
mountains close up the distance. As the boat glides nearer between glistening boulders, those sculptured towers rise higher and
even higher against the sky. They show no sign of ruin or age. All looks solid, stately, perfect. One forgets for the moment that
anything is changed. If a sound of antique chanting were to be borne along the quiet air–if a procession of white-robed priests
bearing aloft the veiled ark of the God, were to come sweeping round between the palms and pylons–we should not think it
strange.
These visits were only a sampling of the great interest that Victorian-era Britain had
for Egypt. Soon, tourism to Philae became common.
1900s
Aswan Low Dam
In 1902, the Aswan Low Dam was completed on the Nile River by
the British. This threatened many ancient landmarks, including the temple complex of
Philae, with being submerged. The dam was heightened twice, from 1907–12 and from 1929–34, and the island of Philae was
nearly always flooded. In fact, the complex was not underwater only when the dam's sluices were open, from July to October.
It was postulated that the temples be relocated, piece by piece, to nearby islands, such as Bigeh or Elephantine. However, the temples' foundations and other architectural supporting structures
were strengthened instead. Although the buildings were physically secure, the island's attractive vegetation and the colors of the temples' reliefs were washed away. Also, the
bricks of the Philae temples soon became encrusted with silt and other debris carried by the
Nile.
Rescue project
By 1960, UNESCO had decided to move many of the endangered sites
along to Nile to safer ground. Philae's temple complex was moved, piece by piece, to Agilkai, 550 meters away, where it was
reassembled and remains today. That project lasted from 1977 to 1980.
Nearby
Prior to the inundation, a little west of Philae lay a larger island, anciently called Snem or Senmut, but now Beghé. It is very precipitous, and from its most elevated peak affords a fine view of the Nile, from its
smooth surface south of the islands to its plunge over the shelves of rock that form the First Cataract. Philae, Beghé, and another lesser island divided the river into four principal
streams, and north of them it took a rapid turn to the west and then to the north, where the cataract begins.
Beghé, like Philae, was a holy island; its and rocks are inscribed with the names and titles of Amenhotep III (Amunoph III), Rameses the Great, Psammetichus, Apries, and Amasis,
together with memorials of the later Macedonian and Roman rulers of Egypt. Its principal ruins consisted of the propylon and two
columns of a temple, which was apparently of small dimensions, but of elegant proportions. Near them were the fragments of two
colossal granite statues and also an excellent piece of masonry of much later date, having the aspect of an arch belonging to
some Greek church or Saracen mosque.
References
See also
External links
Coordinates:
24°01′31″N, 32°53′03″E
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