Pinotage [ˌpinɔˈtaʒə] is a red wine
grape that is South Africa's signature variety. It was
bred there in 1925, and typically produces deep red varietal wines with smoky, bramble and earthy flavours, sometimes with notes
of bananas and tropical fruit, but has been criticised for sometimes smelling of acetone. Pinotage is often blended, and also
made into fortified wine and even red sparkling
wine.[1]
Origin
Pinotage is a grape variety that was created in South Africa in 1925 by Abraham Izak Perold, the first Professor of Viticulture at Stellenbosch University. Perold was attempting to combine the best qualities of the robust
Cinsault with Pinot Noir, a grape that makes great wine but
can be difficult to grow. Cinsault is known as Hermitage in South Africa, hence the
portmanteau name of Pinotage.
Pinotage is a viticultural cross, not a hybrid. In plant breeding, a cross is a cultivar
which is the result of crossing two or more cultivars within the same species, while a hybrid is a cultivar bred from members of
different species. Both of Pinotage's ancestors are Vitis vinifera.
History
Pinotage only survived its early years by a series of lucky accidents. Perold planted the four seeds from his cross in the
garden of his official residence at Welgevallen Experimental Farm and then seems to have forgotten about them. In 1927 he left
the university for a job with KWV and the garden became overgrown. The university sent in a team to
tidy it up, just as Charlie Niehaus happened to pass by. He was a young lecturer who knew about the seedlings, and rescued them
from the clean-up team.[2]
The young plants were moved to Elsenburg Agricultural College under Perold's successor, CJ Theron. In 1935 Theron grafted them
onto newly established Richter 99 and Richter 57 rootstock at Welgevallen. This was another piece of luck, as the other
rootstocks there were so badly infected with viruses that they had to be destroyed.[2]
Meanwhile Perold continued to visit his former colleagues. Theron showed him the newly grafted vines, and the one that was
doing best was selected for propagation and was christened Pinotage. The first wine was made in 1941 at Elsenburg, with the first
commercial plantings at Myrtle Grove near Sir Lowry's Pass.[2]
The first recognition came when a Bellevue wine made from Pinotage became the champion wine at the Cape Wine Show of 1959.
This wine would become the first wine to mention Pinotage on its label in 1961, when Stellenbosch Farmer's Winery (SFW) marketed
it under their Lanzerac brand.[3]
This early success, and its easy viticulture, prompted a wave of planting during the 1960s. A group of British Masters of Wine
visited in 1976, and were not impressed by Pinotage, calling the nose 'hot and horrible' and
comparing the taste to "rusty nails".[3] This was probably more of a comment on winemaking during the apartheid years rather than
the grape, but it led to many established vineyards being ripped up as interest slumped.
However a few winemakers kept the faith, notably Beyers Truter (now of Beyerskloof), who won the Diner's Club Winemaker of the
Year in 1987 with his Kanonkop Pinotage.[4]
This success prompted renewed interest in the grape.
Standards of winemaking in South Africa have certainly improved since the days of "rusty nails", but there remains a faction
who believe that Pinotage has no place in a vineyard - André van Rensburg of Vergelegen
famously claimed that "Pinotage is as untenable as child rape".[5]
Distribution and Wines
Aside from the countries listed below, Pinotage is also grown in Brazil, Canada, Israel and Zimbabwe.
New Zealand
There are 94 acres of Pinotage in New Zealand.
South Africa
Almost all Pinotage is to be found in South Africa, where it makes up just 6.7% of the vineyard area but is considered a
symbol of the country's distinctive winemaking traditions. It is a required component (30-70%) in "Cape blends".
In South Africa it is made into the full range of styles, from easy-drinking quaffing wine and rosé to barrel-aged wine intended for cellaring. It is also made into a fortified 'port' style, and even a red sparkling wine.
USA
A little Pinotage is grown in both California and Virginia.
Vine and Viticulture
The vines are vigorous like their parent Cinsaut and easy to grow, ripening early with high sugar levels.[3]
Synonyms
Perold's Hermitage x Pinot. The alternative name 'Herminoir' was considered.[2]
See also
External links
References
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