Sugar cane is the engine that drove the world economy in the 18th century, and this little Caribbean island was a sugar-production workhorse for its British overseers for many decades. At one time there were 68 sugar plantations chugging along on this 28-hectare (69-acre) island—built, of course, on the backs of slaves who were imported here to do the heavy lifting.

Today, the now-independent two-island nation of St. Kitts and Nevis (read more) has a rich sugar cane heritage that it has turned to its advantage. Many of the visitors who come to this island stay in captivating inns set in vintage plantation houses. The island has some 200 historic sites that date from the British settlement. The island's capital, Basseterre, is a living-history tableau of British colonial architecture; the town square, known as the Circus, was a favorite post-dinner promenade spot for plantation owners. At the square's center is the Victorian Berkeley Memorial Clock. And believe it or not, St. Kitts shut down its last sugar cane factory only in 2005. Fields of sugar cane still flourish next to crumbling stone windmills; some of that sweet stuff now goes into making rum—whether at the St. Kitts Rum Company or in moonshine stills—as well as the national drink, Cane Spirits Rothschild (CSR).

St. Kitts is twice the size of its sister island, Nevis, and has three times as many inhabitants, many of them descendants of the slaves brought to the island in the 18th century. But in comparison with other popular Caribbean islands, little St. Kitts is still at heart a sleepy tropical backwater—that's part of its charm. It's also one of the region's friendliest spots; Kittitians are known for their laid-back geniality. Tourism is fast becoming the island's number one industry, however: St. Kitts sees an increasing amount of cruise ship traffic into Basseterre harbor; it has one of only two ports in the Caribbean large enough to berth a ship the size of the Queen Mary II.

Like Nevis, St. Kitts has a surfeit of natural beauty: green volcanic hills rising from turquoise seas; lush vegetation and a profusion of colorful tropical blooms; and, of course, lovely beaches—some of the best for swimming and sunbathing are Cockleshell Bay, Banana Bay, South Friar's Bay, and Frigate Bay. Scuba diving and snorkeling are popular activities; Pro Divers in Basseterre (☎ 869/466-DIVE [466-3483]; www.prodiversstkitts.com) , offers PADI diver training and fun dives. Bluewater Safaris in Bassetere869/466;-4933;www.bluewatersafaris.com) , does day sails, snorkel trips, sunset cruises, and fishing trips in customized catamarans.

A good way to get around the island is by rental car or taxi. Taxi drivers double as guides and are happy to give you the lay of the land; just be sure to settle on a flat fee before you head out on a 2-hour tour with the meter ticking. But perhaps the most fun way to see St. Kitts is a 3-hour scenic tour on the St. Kitts Scenic Railway Basseterre (☎ 869/465;-7263; www.stkittsscenicrailway.com) where railroad cars wind around mountain slopes, cruise past secluded black-sand beaches, and time-travel through fields of sugar cane, back 300 years to the days when sugar was king.

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