[SER-shuhl] 1. Also called Cerceal do Douro, this white-wine grape is grown primarily in Portugal's dão doc. Although associated historically with the island of madeira Sercial is now found there only in limited quantities. When phylloxera attacked the Madeira vineyards in the 1870s, the vineyards were eventually replanted, replacing the classic Madeira varieties like Sercial with tinta negra mole. Because of Common Market labeling regulations (see the following discussion), Sercial is making a comeback. These wines are very perfumy yet so astringent that they take 6 to 8 years to mellow into drinkability. The word "Sercial" is the Anglicized form of Cerceal. 2. The driest and lightest style of the Madeira wines. Although originally associated with the Sercial grape, a lot of Tinta Negra Mole has been used in this style of Madeira in the recent past (especially in the cheaper versions). However, in 1986 Portugal entered the Common Market, whose regulations required that by 1993 any Madeira wine naming a variety on its label must contain at least 85 percent of that grape. This labeling requirement caused an upsurge in replanting the classic vines such as Sercial. Wines labeled "Sercial-style" can contain less than the required 85 percent, and most likely contain more Tinta Negra Mole. Sercial is also called Cerceal (Portuguese spelling) and Esgana Cão, which means "dog strangler" and refers to its astringent character.
Wine Lover's Companion. Copyright © 2003 by Barron's Educational Series, Inc. All rights reserved.
