| Shishapangma | |
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 Shishapangma (left) from mountain flight, Nepal |
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  Shishapangma
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| Elevation | 8,013 metres (26,289 ft) Ranked 14th |
| Location | Tibet, China |
| Range | Jugal/Langtang Himal, Himalayas |
| Prominence | 2,897 m (9,505 ft) |
| Coordinates | 28°21′N 85°47′E / 28.35°N 85.783°ECoordinates: 28°21′N 85°47′E / 28.35°N 85.783°E |
| First ascent | May 2, 1964 by Xǔ Jìng et al. (Chinese) |
| Easiest route | snow/ice climb |
| Listing | Eight-thousander Ultra |
Shishapangma (officially: Xixiabangma) is the fourteenth highest mountain in the world and the lowest of the eight-thousanders. It was the last 8,000 metre peak to be climbed, due to its location entirely within Tibet and the restrictions on outside visitation to the region imposed by Tibetan and Chinese authorities.
The Tibetan name shi sha sbang ma means "crest above the grassy plains".[1] The Chinese name Xīxiàbāngmǎ Fēng 希夏幫馬峰 is a phonetic rendition of the Tibetan name. In Sanskrit, the mountain is called Gosainthan, which means "place of the saint" or "Abode of God".[2] Another interpretation, based on the spelling Shisha-Pangma, is that the name means, literally, "Sherpa Woman."[citation needed]
Geography
Shishapangma is located in south-central Tibet, a few kilometres from the border with Nepal. It is the only eight-thousander entirely within Chinese territory. It is the highest peak in the Jugal Himal, which is contiguous with, and often considered a part of, the Langtang Himal. The combined Jugal/Langtang Himal straddles the Tibet/Nepal border. Since it is on the dry north side of the Himalayan crest, and further away from the lower terrain of Nepal, it has somewhat less dramatic vertical relief than most other major Himalayan peaks.
First ascent
Shishapangma was first climbed via the North Face on May 2, 1964 by a Chinese expedition led by Xǔ Jìng 许竞. In addition to Xǔ Jìng, the summit team consisted of Zhāng Jùnyán 张俊岩,
Notable ascents and attempts
- 1982 British Route, Southwest Face (alpine style) FA by Doug Scott, Alex Macintyre and Roger Baxter-Jones (all UK).[4]
- 2004 Jean-Christophe Lafaille (France) roused controversy when he climbed the British Route on the Southwest face, solo, summiting on December 11, and claiming a winter ascent. Since this was not calendar winter, he changed his claim to an ascent "in winter conditions."[5]
- 2005 (14 January) - first (calendar) winter ascent by Piotr Morawski (Poland) and Simone Moro (Italy).
Approximately 22 people have died climbing Shishapangma, including noted Americans Alex Lowe and Dave Bridges (1999); and veteran Portuguese climber Bruno Carvalho. Nevertheless, Shishapangma is one of the easiest eight-thousanders to climb. The standard route ascends from the north side, and boasts relatively easy access, with vehicle travel possible to base camp at 5,000 metres (16,400 feet). More technically demanding are routes on the steeper Southwest Face, which involve 2,200 metres (7,218 feet) of ascent on a 50-degree slope. These are ideal for a (difficult) alpine style ascent.
Bibliography
- Venables, Stephen; Andy Fanshawe (1996). Himalaya Alpine-Style: The Most Challenging Routes on the Highest Peaks. Seattle, WA, USA: Mountaineers Books. ISBN 0898864569.
- Scott, Doug; Alex MacIntyre (2000 (reprint edition); original 1984). Shisha Pangma: The Alpine Style First Ascent of the South-West Face. Seattle, WA, USA: The Mountaineers Books. ISBN 0-89886-723-1.
References
- ^ Baume, Louis (1979). Sivalaya: explorations of the 8000-metre peaks of the Himalaya. Seattle WA, USA: The Mountaineers. pp. 131-132. ISBN 0-916890-71-6.
- ^ Baume, 1979 op. cit. - p 131
- ^ Baume, 1979, op. cit. p130 & 134
- ^ Scott, Doug; Alex MacIntyre (2000 (reprint edition); original 1984). Shisha Pangma: The Alpine Style First Ascent of the South-West Face. Seattle, WA, USA: The Mountaineers Books. ISBN 0-89886-723-1.
- ^ Alpinist Magazine Lafaille article
External links
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