St. John's (IPA: /seɪnt 'dʒɔnz/) is the provincial
capital of Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada,
making it the seat of the provincial Crown; at a 2006 census population
100,646 (metropolitan population 181,113), it is the largest city in that province, and the oldest English-founded city in
North America.[1] St. John's is a sister city with Waterford,
Ireland.
History
St. John's is the oldest English-founded settlement in North America.[1] Tradition declares that the city earned its name when explorer
John Cabot became the first European to sail into the harbour, on June 24, 1497 — the feast day of Saint John the
Baptist. However, the exact locations of Cabot's landfalls are disputed. A series of expeditions to St. John's by the
Portuguese in the Azores followed in the early 16th century, and by 1540 French, Spanish and Portuguese ships crossed the Atlantic annually to fish the waters off the Avalon Peninsula. In the
Basque Country, it is a common belief that the name of St. John's
was given by Basque fishermen because the bay of St. John's is very similar to the Bay of Pasaia
in the Basque Country, where one of the fishing towns is also called St. John (in Spanish, San Juan).
The earliest record of the location appears as São João on a Portuguese map by Jorge Reinel in 1519. When John Rut visited
St. John's in 1527 he found Norman, Breton and Portuguese ships in the harbour. On August 3, 1527, Rut wrote a
letter to King Henry on the findings of his voyage to North America; this was the first known letter sent from North America.
St. Jehan is shown on Nicholas Desliens' world map of 1541 and San Joham is found in João Freire's Atlas of
1546. It was during this time that Water Street
was first developed, making it the oldest street in North America.
Water Street, St. John's (contemporary photo).
On August 5, 1583, Sir Humphrey Gilbert claimed the area as England's first overseas colony
under Royal Charter of Queen Elizabeth I.
At the time, he found 16 English ships with 20 French and Portuguese vessels using the harbour. There was no permanent
population, however, and Gilbert was lost at sea during his return voyage, thereby ending any immediate plans of settlement. The
Newfoundland National War Memorial is located on the waterfront in
St. John's, at the purported site of Gilbert's landing and proclamation.
The first permanent European settlers arrived at St. John's in 1605. By 1620 the fishermen of England's West Country had excluded other nations from
most of the east coast. In 1627, St. John's was "the principal prime and chief lot in all the
whole country". The resident population grew slowly in the 17th century, but St. John's
was by far the largest settlement in Newfoundland when English naval officers
began to take censuses around 1675. Every summer the population swelled with the arrival of
migratory fishermen. In 1680, fishing ships (mostly from South Devon) set up fishing rooms at St. John's, bringing hundreds of Irish men into
the port to operate inshore fishing boats.
The town's first significant defenses were probably erected due to commercial interests, following the temporary seizure of
St. John's by the Dutch admiral Michiel de Ruyter
in June, 1665. Regardless of the identity of those who built the defenses, the inhabitants were
able to fend off a second Dutch attack in 1673. The British government began to plan fortifications
around 1689, and these were constructed following the retaking of St. John's after the French
admiral Pierre Le Moyne d'Iberville captured and destroyed the town late in
1696. The French attacked St. John's again in 1705 and
1708, and devastated civilian structures with fire.
U.S. Army troops on guard in St. John's in 1942.
The harbour remained fortified through most of the 18th and 19th century. The final battle of the Seven Years' War in North America (the French and Indian
War) was fought in 1762 in St. John's at the Battle
of Signal Hill, in which the French surrendered St. John's to the British under the command of Colonel William Amherst.
The eighteenth century saw major changes in Newfoundland: population growth, beginnings
of government, establishment of churches, reinforcement of commercial ties with North
America and development of the seal, salmon and banks fisheries. St. John's grew slowly, and although it was still
primarily a fishing station, it was also a garrison, a centre of government and, increasingly, a commercial hub. St. John's
served as a naval base during both the American Revolutionary War and the
War of 1812.
Shanawdithit, the last known individual of the indigenous Beothuk people, died in a St. John's hospital of tuberculosis in
1824.
The core of the city was destroyed by fire several times, the most famous of which was the Great Fire of 1892.
Guglielmo Marconi received the first transatlantic wireless
message at St. John's on December 1901 from his wireless station in Poldhu, Cornwall.
St. John's was the starting point for the first non-stop transatlantic aircraft flight, by Alcock and Brown in a modified Vickers Vimy IV bomber, in June
1919, departing from Lester's Field in St. John's and ending in a bog near Clifden,
Connemara, Ireland. In July 2005, the flight was duplicated
by American aviator and adventurer Steve Fossett in a replica Vickers Vimy aircraft, with
St. John's International Airport substituting for Lester's Field (now
an urban and residential part of the city).
During the Second World War, the harbour was used by Royal
Navy and Royal Canadian Navy ships used for protecting convoys. It was also the site of a large US Army base called Fort
Pepperrell. This base was established as part of the "Lend-Lease" agreement
between the UK and USA.
Geography
The city is located on the northeast coast of the Avalon Peninsula in southeastern
Newfoundland, and on the Atlantic Ocean.
It is the most easterly city in North America, as well as the second largest city in Atlantic Canada (after Halifax, Nova Scotia). The downtown area lies to the
north of St. John's Harbour, and the rest of the city expands uphill to the west, north, and east.
St. John's is the largest city in census Division No.
1.
Climate
Of all major cities in Canada, St John's is the cloudiest (only 1,497 hours of sunshine a
year), snowiest (359 cm; 11.8 ft), and has the most wet days per year
(Environment Canada, 2005). However, St. John's has the third mildest winter in comparison to other Canadian cities. [2] St. John's has a continental climate (Dfb) with cool-to-warm summers, and relatively mild winters for Canada
(cold by a world standard). Average highs and lows are 20°C (68°F)/10°C (50°F) in July and -1°C (30°F)/-8°C (17°F) in January.
The annual precipitation is moderate to high, with an average of 1,640 millimetres (64.6 in) per year. The city is also one
of the areas of the country most prone to tropical cyclone activity, as it is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the east, where
tropical storms (and sometimes hurricanes) travel.
Downtown St. John's, Newfoundland.
| St. John's Climatological Data |
| Temperature |
| Month |
Jan |
Feb |
Mar |
Apr |
May |
Jun |
Jul |
Aug |
Sep |
Oct |
Nov |
Dec |
|
Mean |
| Record high °C (°F) |
15 (59) |
16 (61) |
18 (64) |
24 (75) |
26 (79) |
29 (84) |
32 (90) |
31 (88) |
30 (86) |
25 (77) |
20 (68) |
16 (61) |
|
|
| Average high °C (°F) |
-1 (30) |
-2 (28) |
1 (34) |
5 (41) |
11 (52) |
16 (61) |
20 (68) |
20 (68) |
16 (61) |
11 (52) |
6 (43) |
2 (36) |
|
9 (48) |
| Mean °C (°F) |
-5 (23) |
-5 (23) |
-3 (27) |
2 (36) |
6 (43) |
11 (52) |
15 (59) |
16 (61) |
12 (54) |
7 (45) |
3 (37) |
-2 (28) |
|
5 (41) |
| Average low °C (°F) |
-9 (16) |
-9 (16) |
-6 (21) |
-2 (28) |
2 (36) |
6 (43) |
11 (52) |
11 (52) |
8 (46) |
3 (37) |
-1 (30) |
-6 (21) |
|
1 (34) |
| Record low °C (°F) |
-23 (-9) |
-24 (-11) |
-24 (-11) |
-15 (5) |
-7 (19) |
-3 (27) |
-1 (30) |
1 (34) |
-1 (30) |
-6 (21) |
-13 (9) |
-20 (-4) |
|
|
| Precipitation and Sunshine Hours |
| Month |
Jan |
Feb |
Mar |
Apr |
May |
Jun |
Jul |
Aug |
Sep |
Oct |
Nov |
Dec |
|
Total |
| Total mm (in) |
150 (5.9) |
125 (4.9) |
131 (5.2) |
122 (4.8) |
101 (4.0) |
102 (4.0) |
89 (3.5) |
108 (4.3) |
131 (5.2) |
162 (6.4) |
144 (5.7) |
149 (5.9) |
|
1514 (59.6) |
| Rainfall mm (in) |
74 (2.9) |
61 (2.4) |
77 (3.0) |
94 (3.7) |
94 (3.7) |
101 (4.0) |
89 (3.5) |
108 (4.3) |
131 (5.2) |
160 (6.3) |
116 (4.6) |
89 (3.5) |
|
1191 (46.9) |
| Snowfall cm (in) |
80 (31.5) |
67 (26.4) |
52 (20.5) |
26 (10.2) |
6 (2.4) |
1 (0.4) |
0 (0) |
0 (0) |
0 (0) |
3 (1.2) |
26 (10.2) |
61 (24.0) |
|
322 (126.8) |
| Sunshine hours |
72 |
91 |
109 |
117 |
158 |
177 |
216 |
196 |
140 |
106 |
72 |
59 |
|
1513 |
Temperature and Precipitation data recorded at St. John's International Airport by Environment Canada. Data spans 1971 to 2000.
Sunshine hours recorded at St. John's West CDA by Environment Canada. Data spans 1971 to 2000. |
Economy
St. John's economy has been continuously connected both to its role as a regional/national/provincial capital and to the
ocean. Today, its continued growth is as much tied to what lies beneath the ocean – oil and gas – as what swims in or travels
across the ocean. The city's economy is growing quickly, and the city has been identified as having one of the highest proportion
of scientists and engineers per capita of any city under one million population in North America. Economic forecasts suggest that
the city will continue its strong economic growth in the coming years not only in the "oceanic" industries mentioned above, but
also in tourism and new home construction as the population continues to grow.
This growth in St. John's and its surrounding suburban municipalities, particularly Paradise (+21%), Flatrock (+5%), Torbay
(+5%), Conception Bay South (+3%) and Portugal Cove-St. Philip's (+2%) (all percentages indicate 1996-2001 growth) is in stark
contrast to the population and economic collapse of much of the rest of the Province (St. John's metro area: -0.7% population;
Rest of the province: -10.0% population). Many feel that the growth in St. John's has not particularly spread to the rest of the
Province.
Educational Institutions
St. John's hosts the following institutions of higher learning:
Recreation
Sports
- St. John's is home to North America's oldest annual sporting event, the
Royal St. John's Regatta, which dates back to at least 1816. The event is
considered important enough in the life of the city that the day of the Regatta (the first Wednesday with fine weather in August)
is a civic holiday - one of the only weather-dependent holidays in the world.
- St. John's played host to the Canada Men's Soccer team's first (and only) qualification for the FIFA World Cup on September
14, 1985 where they defeated Honduras 2-1, at King George V
Park. The park also played host to a FIFA World Cup Qualification game on August 20, 1972, where Canada beat USA 3-2.
Canada, however, failed to qualify for the World Cup in 1974.
- The 2006 Olympic gold medalist men's curling team, skipped by Brad Gushue, is based in
St. John's.
- Ultimate Frisbee is a quickly-growing sport in the city, having an established
League providing two seasons: the larger and more competitive Summer League and the Fall League, intended as a way to become
acquainted with the basics of the sport. The provincial team, called Granite, plays from the city and will compete in the 2007
national championships.
Nightlife
George Street, St. John's.
St. John's is reputed to have the most bars per capita of any city in North America; George Street in downtown St. John's is reputed to have the most bars per square foot in
North America.
Transportation
St. John's is the eastern terminus of the Trans-Canada Highway.
(Victoria, British Columbia is the western terminus.)
The city is served by St. John's International Airport.
The city's public transportation system is Metrobus.
St. John's was the eastern terminus of the Newfoundland Railway until the
abandonment and closure of the railway in September 1988.
St. John's Harbour, Newfoundland
St. John's Harbour, Newfoundland
Demographics
(Unless otherwise identified, all statistics below are for the St. John's metro area, not the core city of St. John's.)
|
City |
Metro |
| Population |
100,646 |
181,113 |
| Growth (2001-2006) |
1.5 |
| Dwellings |
45,317 |
| Area (km²) |
446.04 |
804.64 |
| Area (sq mi) |
172.2 |
310.7 |
| Density (persons per km²) |
225.6 |
214.9 |
Religion
Overwhelmingly Christian, the population of St. John's was once divided along sectarian
(Catholic/Protestant) lines. This division was
reinforced by a religious publicly funded school system. In recent years, this sectarianism has declined significantly, and is no
longer a commonly acknowledged facet of life in St. John's. St. John's is the seat of the Roman Catholic Archbishop of St. John's, and the Anglican Bishop of Eastern Newfoundland and Labrador.
| Religion |
2001 |
% |
| *Roman Catholic |
83,615 |
48.9% |
| *Protestant |
77,880 |
45.5% |
| **Anglican |
39,020 |
22.8% |
| **United Church |
25,670 |
15.0% |
| **Salvation Army |
5,645 |
3.3% |
| **Pentecostal |
3,865 |
2.3% |
| **Presbyterian |
1,220 |
0.7% |
| **Baptist |
495 |
0.3% |
| **Jehovah's Witness |
425 |
0.2% |
| **Other Protestant |
1,540 |
0.9% |
| *Christian, not included elsewhere |
1,310 |
0.8% |
| Muslim |
475 |
0.3% |
| Hindu |
355 |
0.2% |
| Other religions |
460 |
0.3% |
| No religion |
6,990 |
3.9% |
Ethnic origins
Many of the earliest settlers of St. John's came from southeast Ireland, primarily
Waterford, Wexford and Kilkenny. These origins can still be detected in similarities between
accents from southeast Ireland and the traditional St. John's accent.
The information regarding ethnicities above is from the 2001 Canadian Census. The percentages add to more than 100% because of dual responses (e.g.
"French-Canadian" generates an entry in both the category "French" and the category "Canadian".) Groups with greater than 1,500
responses are included.
Crime
St. John's continuously has one of the lowest crime rates in Canada.
Notable Persons from St. John's
-
Main article: :Category:People from St. John's
- See also: List of People
of Newfoundland and Labrador
Media
Radio
St. John's is currently the only Canadian city served by radio stations whose call
letters do not all begin with the letter C. The ITU prefix VO was assigned to
the Dominion of Newfoundland before the province joined Canadian Confederation in
1949, and three AM stations kept their existing call
letters. However, other commercial radio stations in St. John's which went to air after 1949 use
the same range of prefixes (CF–CK) currently in use elsewhere in Canada, with the exception of VOCM-FM, which was permitted to adopt the VOCM callsign because of its corporate association with the AM station
that already bore that callsign. VO also remains in use in amateur radio.
Television
- Channel 4 — CBFJ, SRC
- Channel 6 — CJON, independent station which airs a mix of Global and CTV programming; station is
advertised as NTV
- Channel 8 — CBNT, CBC
Print
- The Telegram (daily newspaper)
- The Independent (weekly newspaper)
- The Express (weekly newspaper, now
discontinued)
- The Muse (weekly or, during summer months, bi-monthly Memorial University student
newspaper)
- Le Gaboteur (Newfoundland and Labrador's only French-language newspaper;
bi-monthly)
- The Scope (Newfoundland's only bi-weekly online and print
alternative newspaper)
- Current (St. John's second bi-weekly
newspaper)
Sister cities
Mayors of St. John's
See List of mayors of St. John's, Newfoundland and
Labrador.
Current Mayor: Andy Wells Deputy Mayor: Dennis O'Keefe
See also
Notes
External links
Wikimedia Commons has media related to:
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