Try This Site it help me. Has same info as below but with pictures.

Roscoe http://www.thegatesofdawn.ca/wordpress/posts/2005/07/19/dakota-fan-problem/ Published by piper July 19th, 2005 in General. On Monday morning, just as I was beginning the drive home to Waterloo from Ottawa, about six hours in the sweltering heat, I discovered that the blower in my truck had stopped working properly. Between the time I gave the truck to my friend Jeff to drive for a day, and the time I got it back, something in the fan control broke. Jeff of course denies any wrongdoing, knowledge of, or involvement in this startling development. I think the facts speak for themselves. Truck: 2001 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab.

Symptom: Fan only works at highest speed setting. In all lower settings, the fan just turns off. I suffered with the A/C at full blast the whole drive home (better than turning it off), then hit Google to see if anybody else had encountered this. Turns out it is a somewhat common problem. The fan speeds are controlled by a high-power resistor in series with the fan motor. Apparently it is quite common for these resistors to burn out. This problem affects many makes of car, not just Dodge. Fortunately, the resistors were quite inexpensive at my dealership's parts department, and very easily replaced. The resistor comes as a module that is bolted into one of the air plenums in the passenger footwell. On the outside is a wiring connector, similar to the connector on halogen headlight bulbs (and similarly difficult to unplug). The resistors themselves are on a card that sticks inside the air plenum, presumably so the resistors will be cooled by the air flow. The original appeared to be a card of fibreglass or mica or something, presumably with the resistive elements printed on it, and then painted black. Seemed very cheap to me, I'm not surprised it burned out. When I removed it, it was covered in moisture. And the paint was flaking off in one corner, which probably allowed moisture to seep in to the resistive element and corrode it. Tests with an ohmmeter showed that only two of the five pins appeared to have continuity with each other, the others were all open circuits. The new resistor card cost me $13. It was somewhat different in design than the original. The replacement is using a ceramic core, with resistance wire wound around it, and dipped in epoxy. This is more like high-power resistors are supposed to be made. On the top is what appears to be a thermal fuse. The new module has continuity with all pins, the resistance to pin 1 from subsequent pins steadily increasing, up to pin 5 which had I think 2 or 3 ohms resistance. I suspect that the fan speed selector provides power to one of pins 2 through 5, representing speeds from highest to slowest. Pin 1 is then used to supply the motor. Pins 2 through 5 appear to be a 2 or 3 ohm power resistor with multiple taps. The first tap (pin 2) is actually at 0 ohms resistance (pins 1 and 2 are shorted together), giving full voltage to the blower motor. On the whole, this is actually quite an inefficient motor speed control. At speeds other than off and full-speed, considerable power is wasted as heat in the resistor. A more modern and efficient design would use a switch-mode transistor control. That would allow infinite variation in fan speed, waste less power, and probably last longer too (if implemented properly). It could probably be implemented on a plug-compatible module. That would be an interesting aftermarket part: an infinitely variable fan control. The hard part would be replacing the knob on the console.

== Feed for this Entry Trackback Address ---- # 1 JonesJul 25th, 2005 at 9:37 am Smitty… I did NOT wreck the fan speed control in your truck! Sabby and I drove from home to Merivale plaza to buy some groceries and bits and bobs for the new house. I admit we used the AC and that we used it on a setting other than MAX, but I noticed no malfunciton during my journey. Note: Had I intended to wreck your truck, I assure you, it would have cost you in the thousands to repair, not $13. Note also: It's about time you got back to some electronics and hacking about like the old days - you're getting soft. We should build a new locust car or some thing bigger and buggier. The world is ours for the taking! I'm glad it's fixed and you can thank me later for teaching you something about Dodge trucks. Jones. # 2 Richard Nov 3rd, 2005 at 1:59 pm Thanks for posting this information. Google found your blog for me! I couldn't find this in any of the enthusiast web sites - but there were plenty of messages showing how to get 5 more HP. FYI the part number from Dodge for the resistor pack for my 2002 Dakota is 5174618AA. It cost me $12.71USD in Fairfax, VA, US # 3 KevinNov 17th, 2005 at 1:06 pm Thanks for the info, I was looking for the answer to the same problem in mine. Also thanks Richard for posting the part number. # 4 Jude Jan 9th, 2006 at 12:41 pm This is GREAT! I have an '01 Dakota, and you're right Ron - speeds 0 and 4 are safe, otherwise you're CONSTANTLY burning out the resistor. Smart. They need an electronic speed control that you can steal from any RC car. Anyway - I was told by my brother (full sized Dodge) that the heat would use TWO resistors - so I bought two. I have yet to install, and can't tell a lot from the photo (thanks for posting ALL of this by the way) - but saw only one the other day when I peeked under the passenger heater area. When I picked up the parts from Dodge in Portsmouth, NH - they were only $9.45 EACH! Buying two's fine! Anyway, the jamoke at the parts counter didn't know squat about installing. I'd already (mistakenly) replaced the heater control unit and didn't wanna pull a dash apart again.

I said: " Lemme make my question direct: DO I HAVE TO RIP APART THE WHOLE DASHBOARD?" He replies: "Oh yeah - of course." PLease tell me he's wrong or my whole weekend will be a bummer (no garage and freezing out in NH).

Thanks guys!

-JA # 5 piper Jan 10th, 2006 at 9:09 am I only had one resistor to replace. I guess the Ram is different. It was right there in the passenger footwell area, no need to pull the dash apart. I had to unbolt one plenum to move aside, just so I could reach the second screw on the resistor. On the whole, a very easy job. I know the picture sucks, but it was the best I could do. I would need a much wider-angle lens to get a decent shot in there. # 6 Shawn Mar 15th, 2006 at 1:14 pm Great post, thank you! I live in the same area and have a 2001 Dakota Quad Cab and I just had the same thing happen to me (in winter so only having the high setting really blows!). I am going to go get that part tomorrow and fix this ASAP. # 7 Anthony D. SOVA Mar 26th, 2006 at 3:45 pm I have not fixed my problem but it is the same on a 2001 ClubCab. What is the Part Number for a 2001? And thankyou for this post, i have been looking for a while and havn't pin pointed the problem, i was about to replace the controls. Please email the information, thank you. -Anthony D. NC # 8 Corey May 15th, 2006 at 6:53 pm Thank you for the post. I purchased the HVAC resistor card and it worked perfectly. Installed it within 20 minutes. Only 2 boltes + the plenum, which I was able to get by with undoing just 1 bolt. I asked the dealer for a fan blower resistor and he gave me the exact part. The only thing I had to do was clip the ears off. Thank you again for you post. # 9 Jake Jun 7th, 2006 at 12:31 pm Thanks a bunch to all you guys who posted. This saves me a lot of money and posterior pain. Having only one setting (high)is excruciating in this Florida heat.

Thanks again! # 10 David Jun 16th, 2006 at 4:26 pm Thanks for the post - we were able to fix the same issue on a 2001 Dakota (the pics above are great!) The resistor was $19.95 - a cheap alternative to a dealer repair. # 11 Timmy J Jun 19th, 2006 at 12:20 pm Thanks for the info above….just fixed my Dakota using it. The dealership charged me $102 the last time this happened. It cost me $13.01 for the part and took 12 mins to replace. I have another question if anyone has any input. My truck just started idling high, then low then high, low….etc…. anybody have an idea what it could be? # 12 Larry Jun 27th, 2006 at 11:32 am Thanks for saving my marriage! I had been living without #1 fan speed for a year and then lost 2 & 3. My wife wasn't going to leave me alone until I fixed the problem. I didn't want to take it to a dealer so I started looking on the web for a fix. Thanks to you it cost me $10.63 for the part and about 10 minutes (mostly on my head) for replacement. Thanks again! # 13 Bill Jul 7th, 2006 at 12:34 am This site was very helpful. Thank you for posting it. I just fixed the exact same problem in my 2003 Dakota club cab. I wanted to give everybody a tip as well with respect to getting the plug undone, as it was a bit of a challenge. There was a red tab on the one side of my plug that had to be slid to one side before the connection could be undone. Once this red tab is slid, then you can undo the plug the same way that you would for a halogen bulb for example. The part was priced at $14.95 (Cdn $) in Calgary at Renfrew Dodge. Interestingly it was $21.50 at Crowfoot Dodge. This is not a surprise considering the bad reputation that Crowfoot has with respect to taking advantage of customers. Thanks again! # 14 Dale Jul 19th, 2006 at 9:28 am I just installed the resistor in my 2001 Dodge Dakota. The part # for the HVAC Resister Card is 1-05174618AA. The resistor fits 2001-2004 Dakota and 2001-2003 Durango. As mentioned above, Dodge is using an updated version of the resistor. $10 at my local Dodge dealer. Made in Slovenia, the original was made in Mexico. So much for made in America. This was a really easy fix. Thanks so much for the info! # 15 Eric Jul 20th, 2006 at 11:08 am I am no mechanic, but this post has turned me into one. The total time to replace was under 20 minutes, including 5 minutes spent looking for something to clip the new part. Thank you for this post, it has been a gigantic help. # 16 Russell Jul 22nd, 2006 at 8:16 pm For Timmy J,

I just fixed the idling problem on my '01 Dakota. The IAC (Idle Air Control) motor/valve is most likely the culprit. On the 4.7L V8, it is on the right side of the throttle body as you are looking at the engine from the front. There are two connectors there, I forget which one it is. I needed a torx-head driver to remove it. After you remove it, clean all the gunk off of it and clean the inside on the throttle body as well. After I cleaned it, I put it back in and the truck quit "hunting" at idle speeds. Note: I was told after you put it back in, you might have to rev the engine with the accelerator until the IAC valve "reprograms" itself. Hope this helps. I am glad to find out the blower resistor is only 12 bucks. # 17 Rick Jul 24th, 2006 at 5:22 pm I've got an '01 Dakota Quad. Last week the fan quit altogether…none of the speeds work. There's power at the fan harness and the fan works when I hotwired it. I pulled the resistor card and the coating doesn't appear damaged. I've got full continuity on pins 1,2,3 & 5, but when I hit pin #4, I get a half second of continuity, and then it cuts out - Every time. Anybody think that could be the problem? I'm sure I'll gamble on the $13 bucks on the part anyway, I'm just wondering how that could be happening, and if that could be causing a complete failure of the fan. By the way, this posting probably saved me a days worth of head scratching already. Thanks. # 18 Aaron Jul 25th, 2006 at 8:04 am Hello, I have an '01 Dakota Club cab SLT and I got the part down here in Florida, $12.84 w/tax. It took about 10 minutes to install and works like a charm. Thank you SO much, you need good AC control down here in the summer for sure… PS The old part looked like a plain black card, when I first pulled it out I wasn't sure if I pulled the right part. # 19 Jim RE: Rick's POst Jul 28th, 2006 at 7:17 am Rick, I have the same problem with the fan not working at all.

I had a Caravan that only worked on the High speed and found a similar post about the replacing resistor pack. I replaced it and it worked fine. Just not sure if it the same with my Dakota as I have not taken the pack out yet to check. If you get anywhere with this, OR if you replaced the pack and it worked, please let me know. If anyone else has any suggestions, I'd love to read them. Thanks jimmylee@adelphia.net # 20 reg Jul 29th, 2006 at 9:03 pm hey thanks for showing that pic i have same probly fan only works on high but now that i seen the pic i know were to go and replace my resistor # 21 Bob Aug 5th, 2006 at 3:56 pm Thanks for posting this. New resistor worked like a champ on my 2001 Dakota. I'm sure it saved me at least $100 from bringing it to a dealer for repair. I love the Internet… # 22 joe Aug 9th, 2006 at 7:31 am Thanks for your information, $10.85 and 15 minutes of mostly trying to get the screws back in. JD # 23 Jim Aug 16th, 2006 at 5:56 pm Thanks for the posts. I had the problem with none of the blower settings working. Picked up the part and it works like a champ!!! Thanks again! # 24 Andrew Aug 23rd, 2006 at 6:19 pm I just replaced mine today, cost me $17.84 cdn. at Wendell Motors in Kitchener, works great. I thought it was funny when i was reading the original post because mine stopped working (1,2,3) after I let my dad borrow my truck, then 4 when I let somebody else borrow it, haha, wierd. # 25 Doug Aug 24th, 2006 at 9:36 pm THANK-YOU for the posting. I couldn't believe it when I started calling around to get this fixed. The local dealership wanted $120 for part and installation. I thought there's no way so I bought the part for $15.79 came home and Googled the issue. Lo and behold your page came up and 10 minutes later problem fixed. My wife said, "seriously that's it?" I spent most of the 10 minutes looking for the right socket. My opinion charging labour for this is criminal. Makes you wonder what else they try to hose you for! # 26 jeff g Aug 30th, 2006 at 1:04 pm Great info here. I had this problem on my 2002 Dakota and was figuring on spending over a 100 bucks to fix it. I found the part at the Dodge dealership in Kearney, NE for $10.50. Everything was exactly as you described! Only took 5 minuted to fix. Thanks again!! # 27 MIke Aug 31st, 2006 at 5:36 pm Good thing I googled this before going to the Dealer. I have the same problem with my 03 Dakota club cab. The last time I went to the dealer it cost me $9.87 for a plastic gas cap and $49.95 for them to put it on because of an engine check light was on and my inspection was up. They said I had a rusted gas cap. (plastic dont rust) My wife put gas in the truck the night before and didnt screw it down tight. # 28 DonnieB Says Sep 11th, 2006 at 7:31 pm I have a 2003 Dodge Dakota and the fan speed only works on high. I replaced the resistor and the fan still only run ons high. If you have any suggestions I sure could use the help. # 29 Ben Sep 26th, 2006 at 2:46 pm I just wanted to thank everyone for this information. I was driving home on Sunday when all of a sudden my cabin fan stopped and all that was left was the smell of burnt electronics. First thing I thought was that the entire motor went bad. After reading this site though I went to the dealership and got a new reisistor. Cost me 21 bucks and took about 10 minutes to install. Only reason I tell my story is to reiterate that even if you loose all fan speeds (such as I did) rather than loosing everything but the high speed, it still may be the resistor. So go spend the 21 dollars or check it with an ohm meter before ripping the entire blower motor out. Thanks Again! # 30 NJ Oct 3rd, 2006 at 5:40 pm I have a 2004 Dakota. My fan would only work on 'High' for the past couple of months. This morning even that stopped working. I thought I"d have to be without my truck for a day or two while it was being serviced under warranty, but after reading these posts, I think I'll do it myself. Thank you! PS-The air flow while driving is sufficient to heat/cool the cabin, but defrosting/defogging would be tough while driving # 31 NJOct 3rd, 2006 at 6:38 pm Ok, follow-up…I just unbolted the part, but I can't figure out how to remove the wiring. Any tips to make it easier? Thank you. # 32 piper Oct 3rd, 2006 at 7:12 pm It's a latching connector, very similar to the ones you see on modern-style halogen headlamps. You just have to find the magic little tab you have to push to release it. I can't really help much with that. # 33 NJ Oct 4th, 2006 at 1:17 am Thank you Piper, that should help…I'll try again tomorrow. # 34 NJ Oct 5th, 2006 at 7:26 pm Ok, bought the part, installed, smiled when the fan started pumping out air! Thanks for information. BTW, seeing the new part completely cleared up any question about how to remove the wiring from the old part. $16 for the part, 10 minutes for the install. # 35 Ray Oct 20th, 2006 at 8:06 am Well this is just the help I needed. My problem is I have a 1996 Dodge Dakota and it does not appear that the resister is in the same place. Anyone have an idea or a pic of the layout? Thanks much.. Ray # 36 Chris Oct 22nd, 2006 at 10:02 am Thanksa for the great help. Easy part to get, fairly cheap, $18.00+GST (Tower in Calgary), easy fix. I unbolted everything before removing the harness. Made it real easy, maybe 10-15 minutes. Thanks again. # 37 Steve Oct 28th, 2006 at 3:35 pm This site just fixed many problems with my 01 Dakota.

Fan doesn't work-will try resistor pack change, no dealership parts department open on Saturday.

"Hunting" idle-cleaned IACV, idles great now!

Another problem I was having-rpm's going up and down as I drove down the road. Transmission seemed to be downshifting and then upshifting for no reason. Really it was the torque converter unlocking and locking. Gas mileage going down the tube. Checked the throttle position sensor with an ohm meter. Sending very dirty signal, replaced with a new one ($80.99) and the truck runs like a champ. What a difference a couple simple procedures have made. # 38 George Oct 29th, 2006 at 1:53 pm Hello, I wanted to thank you for providing this information.

My fan quit working just as the snow started to fly. I got on the internet and googled your site. Armed with the information provided I bought a resistor at my local Dodge dealership for $14.95 CDN. It took me 15 minutes to replace the resistor. My fan was completely inoperative on all the fan settings, now the fan is functioning at all levels, I'm ready for the snow and ice. Thank you so much for posting this information, I'm sure my local Dodge dealership would have charged me an arm and a leg for the repair bill. All the best! # 39 sean Oct 30th, 2006 at 8:03 pm Thank you so much for posting this , I live in Minnesota and do to the temp changes we get here I have already had this part replaced once before. This time I wanted to do it myself and save the money. your pictures are very helpful. I should have looked sooner because my dash is now on my garage floor, I thank you deeply for this posting! # 40 Steve Nov 1st, 2006 at 6:07 pm Fan now fixed. $12.70 from dealership and 15 minutes. Thanks. # 41 Ed Nov 13th, 2006 at 5:34 pm Your info is greatly appreciated. I replaced my resistor board and got all my fan speeds back. But after a couple of days, I only had high speed again. I changed the board again, and after a few days, it only worked on high again. I think I might have an electrical problem. Mayby the fan motor is drawing too much current? Does anybody have any ideas on a solution to my problem? # 42 Tony Nov 17th, 2006 at 1:56 pm Same issue here with 2001 Dodge quad cab. Replaced what you said and worked perfectly. THANKS MAN…..I love GOOGLE # 43 greg Dec 4th, 2006 at 10:02 am great post. exactly the same symptoms, same problem part, accurate assessment of the failure mode. thanks much greg # 44 Jeff Dec 13th, 2006 at 12:21 pm Haven't tried this yet… Kinda stumbled across the site while researching a P0442 code. My blower has only been working on the high setting for over 2 years. I've been able to ignore it all that time because I wasnt about to pay the dealer to fix something that shouldnt be broken to begin with. And after reading about just how many people are having this problem (on this site, and others), I am a bit disappointed (but not surprised) Dodge did not issue a recall for this. I will be visiting my Dodge dealer ASAP to buy this replacement part! Thanks Guys! # 45 Jim Dec 18th, 2006 at 11:09 am Thanks for the info, i had this same problem twice now on my '02 Dakota SXT. The first time was at only 19,000 miles and just again at 49,000 first time it was still under warranty so no cost to me. When it happened this time i suspected it was the same problem and sure enough it was. just replaced it with the updated card for $11.25 from the dealership hopefully the newer style resistor card holds up better than the old "wich was what it was replaced with the first time" # 46 Jim Dec 26th, 2006 at 9:57 pm Thanks for the information on how to fix the fan issue on my 2001 Durango. I did a google search on the issue, not expecting to get any results and was very happy to see you created this web site. My part cost me $11.99 including tax in Minnesota, it took me about a 1/2 hour to change it out. Thanks a million! # 47 LAD Dec 28th, 2006 at 9:53 am Piper, You are THE MAN!!! Thank you so much for posting this. I lost all fan speeds for the first time two days ago at about 90K miles on my 2001 Durango. I called the Dodge dealer to get some intel on what could be going wrong. He ran through the usual suspects and this resistor pack came up. He said it was really hard to get to up in the dash and would take about an hour and a half of labor to change out. I did a Yahoo search and found your site, paid 15$ for the part and it took me about a half hour to replace. It would have taken only 10 minutes if I'd had a 1/4″ universal for my socket set to get to that pesky back bolt. Again, thanks a million. -LAD

-Chicago # 48 Tom Dec 28th, 2006 at 11:29 pm I have a 2001 Durango with rear air in addition to front control. Last week, front and rear both would only work on high and I assumed that the resistor would fix the problem since I had run into this 3 years earlier. Replaced the resistor and front control works fine now. However rear control still only works on high. I assume that there is another resistor for the rear but don't know where resistor might be located. Ideas??? # 49 Chris Jan 10th, 2007 at 3:09 pm WOW, Nothing excites me more the not being gouged by my local dealership. The fixed worked exactly as stated above. Two things I can offer is the newest part number is 5174618AA. One dealer wanted $40 another $27 and obviosly the one I bout it from was $11.93 with tax. The other suggestion I can make is for better visibility when working is place a small mirror on the floor and it is easier to see the screews and align the holes

Regards, Chris # 50 J. Jan 21st, 2007 at 5:23 pm Wish I had seen this before replacing heater control unit Which by the way was not that difficult to do Just a few screws along bottom of dash and 2 screws above instrument panel and the whole dash pops off.Thanks for the info on the resistor because thats probably the problem. I was able to locate the resistor so replacement should be easy.Thanks for saving me a trip to the mechanic!! # 51 Roman Jan 24th, 2007 at 7:42 pm Thanks so much,

the fan went out last nite,found your site today & hopefully have the part tomorrow.

the photo was a huge help. # 52 Roman Jan 25th, 2007 at 3:04 pm Local dodge dealer (3255 n.cicero.Chicago ) has the part in stock.

Mopar part# (05061575AA)

piece of cake install.

good luck all # 53 Roman Jan 25th, 2007 at 3:05 pm $15.26 out the door # 54 Carl Jan 25th, 2007 at 3:19 pm Thanks for the tip.

Had the exact same problem in my 04 Dakota.

Cheers # 55 Paul Jan 27th, 2007 at 5:37 pm Awesome information!!! I am the proud owner of a FULLY operational heating system in my '01 Durango. Although I have to pay $29.95 from Dodge Allen Motors in Derry, its still far better than the $200.00 they wanted to do it! Super easy installation, the part no. I found here was dead on, I am so happy. Thanks again everyone!!!! # 56 Zimm Jan 28th, 2007 at 11:48 pm Thank you very much for the info on the resistor. It cost me about $20 out the door in SoCal, but a lot better than the $120+ alternative. Thanks again! # 57 Travis Feb 2nd, 2007 at 4:43 pm Thanks for the info. Fan stopped working in the summer but did not care b/c i would just ride with the windows down. Did not know that the resistor was so cheap. Got a new one for $16 bucks from the dealer. Thanks for the info # 58 susan Feb 15th, 2007 at 1:17 pm Hi i have a 2001 dodge dakota sport 4×4 truck, 3 months ago i lost heat except for high setting, my dealer replaced a resistor for 150 with labor, for the last week it is only working on 2 highest speeds, now today it isn't working at all. i agree with the fellow, dodge should call a recall. # 59 Jeff Y Feb 20th, 2007 at 3:33 pm AWESOME! Googled theroblem, sent me here, went grabbed the part, installed in about 10 minutes and I finally have my life back! I can't tell you how irritating it is to me not to have my normal climate control. On a side note, I did notice the moisture residue on the card and it made me think of all the time in the past few months when I noticed my passenger side floor had a huge puddle. Can anyone lend me some insight to whether or not this water problem may be connected to this situation? When I had the puddle, it was NOT antifreeze. It was definitely water but I could not figure out where it was coming from. And it was during arid times of the year as well. Thanks again! # 60 Rick Mar 2nd, 2007 at 7:18 pm Wow, that was the easiest replacement, thanks to this site. It actually only took a couple of minutes to change once I had the right socket and squeezed my 220lb body under the passenger dash. 2004 Dakota, 95,000km, all fan speeds stopped working, $13.01 Cdn +tx. I really thought I was in for huge dealer gouge. Works like a dream now. Thanks to all involved, red slider on the plug, cutting the tabs off, and just where to find the problem … life savers all of you). # 61 Dave Mar 5th, 2007 at 4:40 pm Great website and thanks for the info. I just changed out the resistor in about 10 minutes (screws are 8mm). It went smooth except for the upside down part under the dash. Turns out I knew the parts guy at the dodge dealership and he gave me his discount, sweet huh? Thanks again for everything. I LOVE STICKIN' IT TO THE DEALER!! # 62 Aaron Mar 7th, 2007 at 9:48 pm Yet another vote for "Great Website". I had the blower in my '02 Dakota die while at Home Depot, and with the rear split window open for lumber at 9 pm on a 4degree (F) night, that was a COLD trip home. An hour looking online and I knew what had happened. $12.15 US at my Dodge part desk, 10 minutes, and I have a fan again. Thanks! # 63 Mike M. Mar 10th, 2007 at 7:04 pm I am in on the "Great Website" vote . My fan would only work on High. Got the part from the dodge dealer for $12. Took me about 20 minutes, could do it alot faster now that I have done it once. Thanks for imfo # 64 RichardMar 11th, 2007 at 1:08 am thank you, you saved me a lot of money. # 65 Michigan Rob Mar 18th, 2007 at 5:44 pm My fan would not work at all on my 2003 Dakota. Dealer told me that it could not posibly be the resistor. I told him about this sight and how about 10 people had that same problem I had with no fan at all. He told me again that there was no way that it could be the resister, "If the resistor goes bad you will have no/high speed fan, must be you controls or the fan motor".

"Ha Ha, parts counter guy" It was the resistor $14.00 and good as new.

My dads 2003 Dakota also needed a new resistor about a month ago, his was no/high speed problem. # 66 piper Mar 18th, 2007 at 9:41 pm Well, from what I could see of the construction of the resistor, the dealer's statement, that it couldn't be the resistor, is not entirely unreasonable, given your no-fan-at-all symptoms. The reason most of us have not lost high speed is that high speed is actually using zero resistance, the high-speed terminal is basically just connected through to the motor by solid metal. It can't burn up like the non-zero resistance elements for lower speeds do, at not without drawing really excessive current that would probably blow a fuse first. It may be the connector was just loose or something, perhaps kicked by a passenger. I'm glad the resistor pack fix worked for you, anyway. I'm just saying the dealer was not necessarily just blowing smoke up your ass when he said that. # 67 Brian Mar 19th, 2007 at 4:32 pm Hi there,

Bought a 01 Quad Cab off EBay today, checked it out….NO BLOWER! Typed in dakota fan problem on MSN search, this site was there, I think it will be problem solved when I pick it up tommorrow!! Thank You!!!! # 68 John Mar 20th, 2007 at 10:21 am I need to thank eveyone for their postings. I had scheduled a time at the dealership to have this repaired for later this week. They were happy to fix it, for $130. After reading this information, I ended up being able to fix it for $13 and about 10 minutes of my time. # 69 Brian Mar 22nd, 2007 at 10:13 pm That was the prob! $18 and 3 minutes…fixed….Thanks again!! # 70 Ann Mar 30th, 2007 at 10:56 am Just like the rest of you - having lost all other fan settings except "high" was my problem too. Unlike an earlier post-er, I'm the wife, and the truck is mine (96 Dodge Dakota Sport), so I can't justify pestering my husband to fix it. I'll just get the part myself…except I'll have to pester him for help seeing as how I'm 6mos. along and unlikely to fit in the passenger well and reach the spot I need to get to. Here's hoping this is the fix! Thanks for posting this! # 71 Rick Apr 9th, 2007 at 8:20 am I had to laugh reading over some of the previous postings. Piper on March 18, kind of sounds like he's the dealership guy that mislead Michigan Bob also on March 18. Anyone who has done this job can attest to the fact that there is no way you can kick the plug loose, in fact there's no way you'll get it off at all until you slide that red tab. Sorry but we're not going to pay the Piper this time. # 72 Jason Apr 10th, 2007 at 1:38 am Just curious to know if someone could clear something up for me. I have an '03 Dakota and the fan just started doing the "Only works on high" again. I had the resistor replaced in '05 as well but I was still under warranty and didn't get to see it done. In regards to the "red tab" I looked around today and saw what looked like a rectangular piece that had a red tab that slid back and forth that was held in by two plastic screws. Then closer to the front part of the dash area saw what looked like a round plug similar to that of a halogen bulb plug but didn't see the red tab. Which one of these is the right one? Thanks for any help you can give. # 73 Robert Apr 10th, 2007 at 8:36 pm Thanks for the information in changing the resistor. The pictures were a lot of help. I paid $12.44 for the resistor. This site is awesome!!! # 74 Super Dave Apr 12th, 2007 at 5:47 pm Just replaced my resistor. Blower now works!!!! Just wanted to add my blower DID NOT WORK AT ANY SPEED. Thanks to all for the info here. THE INTERNET IS A WONDERFUL THING!!! And google is your friend # 75 Vic Apr 14th, 2007 at 12:51 pm Jason: Just changed the resistor on my 2003. It's the rectangular piece with the 2 screws and the sliding red tab. # 76 Jim Apr 24th, 2007 at 9:58 pm My 2002 Dakota Quad Cab and only the high speed fan

working. I thought maybe the A/C lost it's charge but it this was an easier fix that that it cost $11.25. Using a small dressing mirrow laying on the passenger side floor made it easier to remove and replace the resister block. You rock dude thanks for the info and part #. # 77 Glenn May 1st, 2007 at 9:18 pm Thanks for all the posts, right down to the part number and socket size. Only my lowest two settings would work, no high speed. Checked price at two Dodge dealers, one priced at $11.25 and the other over 15 dollars. Hardest part of the whole job was tightening the back screw on the duct that I had to remove. It is getting hot here and I needed that high speed. Oh what a relief it is! # 78 MikeMay 2nd, 2007 at 5:51 pm I had a bad blower motor at 50,000 miles in my 2003 Durango resulting in the resistor card going as well. I replaced the motor and card and it worked great. Now at 78,000 miles I smelled the electrical burning scent and knew the card was going. I changed the card, and it lasted for about 10 minutes. I checked it and it was very hot. Today I removed it to install another, and found the insulation burned off the black (w/ tan tracer) and the blue (w/ yellow tracer) wires. I pluged it back in making sure the bare wires did not touch and started the fan motor with the card on the floor. After about 1 minute, it started getting hot again so I shut it down. The plug is now melting so I need to replace that now. Any ideas out there? Thanks…..Mike # 79 Mike May 7th, 2007 at 6:02 am I see people talk mostly about the 2000 models Dakota's I have a 99 model does anyone know if the resistor is in the same place for my model as well? If not where should I look? # 80 Mike May 10th, 2007 at 1:28 pm I just answered my own question, it is not in the same place. Must be hidden out of the way someplace not noticeable. Anyone know about this 99 model I would sure like to know.

Thanks # 81 Perry May 10th, 2007 at 6:49 pm 2002 Durango, fan stopped blowing on anything other than high. Replaced the resistor pack and it worked great…for 10 minutes then fried again. I'm thinking blower motor and causing a problem at lower speeds. Anybody agree or disagree? All wires and connectors look good. I have another resistor but can't locate the blower motor and do not want to just plug in another one. Thanks for any help. # 82 Jason May 11th, 2007 at 10:54 pm I had the same problem, the fan on my 2002 Durango sxt would not work at all. Went to the dealer after reading this site and the tried to sell me a blower motor fo 190 dollars (canadian). I took the brand new motor out to my truck and it did not work. Even though there was power going to the motor. This was tested by a meter. Bought the resistor, took it home and installed it…..Works Great!!! Thanks for the info, I got to make the dealer look like an Idiot. Cost me 20 dollars instead of 190.00. Ha!!! # 83 Eric May 21st, 2007 at 6:50 pm WOW! It worked like a charm on my 2004 Dakota! Fan problem done!!! Now all I need is a way to fix my left blinker! Rear Blinker wire has a short or something. I had it in less than a year after I bought the truck - and at that time, they said it would have been an expensive fix - if it weren't under warrenty. The problem is - it's NOT fixed. 6 months later, it showed up again. Sometimes, when I slam the truck bed shut - it works for a while… and then a few days later - the rear drivers side blinker returns to not working. I've replaced bulbs, but that doesn't do it. I was once told that I should check the ground, but can't find where the ground for that light might be. The other 3 blinkers work fine. Just this problem child that gives me fits…. Thanks again for the Fan Fixage instructions!!!

Works great! # 84 Steve May 21st, 2007 at 7:56 pm This was the best time on the internet I ever had. Wife's 2004 Dakota Quad SXT fan stopped working on Friday. Its a nice truck. I go way back with Dodges though so I told her when we bought it, "expect this sort of thing" and man this brings back memories!

Found this site Sunday night and went to the local Dodge dealer at lunch today.Monday night up and running! Thanks for the information and the part #'s , tool specs., etc. This was great. # 85 tim May 31st, 2007 at 4:02 pm anyone have the fan running at high and it blowing somewhere other than at you. sounds like it is blowing into dash somewhere but very little comes out the vents. every one wants to leave the truck for a day and rip it apart at 95/hour to see what they can see. any hints # 86 Jeff Jun 6th, 2007 at 1:38 pm The fan in my 2002 Dakota Quad cab quit altogether yesterday. I was about to rip the dash out and check the selector switch when I decided to check the internet first. Good thing I did. I found the resistor. Just 2 bolts. I didn't even have to remove the plenum. I went to the dealer and picked up the new part for $19.95 Canadian (including tax). I installed it in the dealers parking lot in 2 minutes. Works great!! This forum solved my problem. Now if someone can tell me how to get white paint (over-spray from the street line repainting) off of my black truck I will be laughing. # 87 Paul Jul 12th, 2007 at 2:12 pm 2001 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab. Well, my experience has been much like the others. Information on this site was extremely beneficial, and saved me $200 for the control module, and lots of frustration. It also gave me an excuse to buy a set of 1/4″ drive sockets with a "screw driver" style handle, a universal joint, and a 6″ flexible shaft extension. These, along with the mirror idea, made removal and reinstallation of the $12 resistor an easy project. Thanks for your help. The link from Google was also fantastic. # 88 Jeff Jul 29th, 2007 at 11:34 am Is this a dealer only part? # 89 Scott Aug 2nd, 2007 at 4:30 pm Am having the same problem as tim. When I start up and take off, as long as I leave the cabin air setting where it was when I started everthing is fine. If I change it while I'm driving it seems to not completely go to the new setting (max a/c, defrost, etc.) or goes to the new setting and then drifts off. Can hear the air blowing, but it is not coming out of the vents very well. Have replaced the control panel, but that did not fix the problem. I can tell by the control panel that the settings are controlled by vacuum, but that is about as far as my knowledge goes. Any help/suggestions would be appreciated. # 90 Buddy Albany Aug 6th, 2007 at 3:00 pm I could not get it at autozone, listed as "not yey available" # 91 Tom Aug 7th, 2007 at 1:40 pm Well, add my thanks to all those above. The fan in my 2004 Dakota abruptly stopped this morning. With temps in the mid-90's and high humidity, I was toast. Pulled all the fuses because I thought I must have blown one. They were all okay. Before taking it to the Dodge dealer to get fixed, thought I'd search the net for a solution. Many thanks. $18 later and my A/C is back working again! # 92 Bart Aug 8th, 2007 at 7:26 pm Hi, Thanks for the info and pictures! I had no fan at any speed. Fuse was OK, Pulled out the fan resistor. Mine was the older fiberglas PCB design. Seemed to check out OK with an ohm meter (no opens) but I could see some white corrosion under the middle fuse link. I scraped off the black coating and found the PCB land was almost completely corroded away. (but not enough for the ohm meter to catch it as an open. I cleaned up the trace on the board and soldered a jumper across the break and it fixed it. (At least until I can get to the dealer to get a replacement). This is my second resistor card. The first time it failed I only had high speed. It was still under warranty so the dealer replaced it free. Here is some info for reference.

NOTE: This data was taken on a 2001 Dodge Dakota 4×4 club cab. I cannot say if the information is applicable to any other model or year. The dark Black/Gr is the gound side of the fan. This reads about 12V with a meter if the motor plug is intact, the motor is not open, and the fuse is good. Grounding this line should run the fan if the motor and fuse are OK. For safety use a fused wire or an in-line (series) 12V test lamp. (The test lamp should light and the fan run but not at max speed/brightness) (Sorry if the table gets out of wack.)

Fan control resistor block connections, Resistance to gnd at cable w/out board with fan control at position shown.

'-' is over scale on meter

Switch position 4 = high.

---|--|--|---|----|---|

off | - | - | - | - | - |

1 | 0 | - | - | - | - |

2 | 0 | 0 | - | - | - |

3 | 0 | - | 0 | - | 27K |

4 | 0 | - | - | - | 1.6 | Card resistances measured after repair.

I used the corresponding wire to show connectivity as I cannot se a pin 1 designator. Meter is only good to about 0.1 ohm so take these numbers as a reference not a spec. This may help someone else to evaluate their card. dk BL/Gr TO Dk/Br = 0.4 ohm [high speed]

dk BL/Gr TO lt Bl = 0.6 ohm

dk BL/Gr TO Gr/Y = 1.4 ohm

dk BL/Gr TO Br = 3.2 ohm [low speed] Also note the low speed resistor (Br) is on for all speeds. If you would like to calculate the series motor resistance in ckt you need to do the parallel resistance calculation on the two values in each selection. Thanks again! # 93 John Aug 14th, 2007 at 8:33 am Holy crap- you saved me a ton of money. The pictures helped a lot. Thanks! # 94 Roy Aug 23rd, 2007 at 10:22 pm Hi. I have a '96 Dakota extended cab with the 3.9L v6. It's been a great truck. It has 135k miles on it. Currently the blower isn't working, and it's been 100 degrees around here. Until recently it ran only when on high. My wife was driving, and said that when the blower stopped working, the fan switch seemed to be stuck. Then she forced it over, and it wouldn't work at all. Last week I replaced the resistor. All the fuses are ok. I took the blower motor out, and it ran when I hooked it up straight to a spare battery. The plug which goes into the resistor was melted. I took soom wireless connectors, attached them to the wires, and plugged them into the prongs coming out of the resistors. Still no air. I am thinking that it is the fan switch, and will try that next. Any thoughts? # 95 Dar Aug 26th, 2007 at 2:54 pm I have a 1996 Dodge Dakota…lost fan motor on all speeds. read this post, cost me $8.56 for new resistor. Now works great. Thanks, this save me a bundle, dealer estimate was $500 for new motor and switch!

Dar

North Carolina # 96 Dar Aug 26th, 2007 at 2:58 pm Roy, you might try swapping the relays to determine if the one for the blower moter is bad. # 97 Dar Aug 26th, 2007 at 9:12 pm The relay in the PDC along side of the battery. # 98 Bob BennettAug 28th, 2007 at 2:36 pm Thanks to all on this site. I purchased a control unit from a wreck for $75.00. when I got home from my trip I was going to change it but because of the heat here in Fl I decided to check on the web first. Am I glad I did. When I had checked with our local dealer in Chiefland they wanted $238.00 for the control part.I haven't checked for the resistor but I'm sure it will be a lot less than they would charge.

I'm glad I did not change the control panel.I guess I'll put th control panel up for sale. R.A.B. # 99 Roy Aug 28th, 2007 at 11:01 pm Thanks guys. Dar, I had tried switching relays. I went ahead and bought the control unit from the dealer and switched it out last weekend. It was a couple hundred bucks. The old one out had some melted plastic in the back, so there was obviously a short there. They don't just sell the fan switch, you have to buy the whole control unit. In the post above, I meant to say that I used "solder-less" connectors to connect the wires into the resistor, not "wireless". That didn't make sense. The new plug was going to be another $95 from the dealer, and I seem to be able to get by without it. The blower works well now. Now I just need to get the AC recharged. Thanks again. # 100 Joe Aug 30th, 2007 at 7:30 am After reading a majority of the questions and responses on this site, I realized that I too had the same issue. After spending $13.50 and 10 mins the issue has been resolved, and my wife is very please. # 101 Jeff Sep 4th, 2007 at 8:58 pm I'm surprised Chrysler isn't trying to have this info removed. Totally cutting into the "easy fix/big profit" # 102 Tish Sep 5th, 2007 at 9:22 pm Thanks for the info- my 2001 CC 4×4 just went to high speed or no speed this week. Found this blog and got three different prices from three different stealerships in my area- Greenbrier Dodge was 11.25 plus tax. It took rhis old girl about 20 mins dragging ny feet to change it out following the posted experiences. Bought a spare for future use or in case my friends 04 acts up! I was about to have a stroke before finding this though!! Virginia Beach, VA # 103 Glen Sep 6th, 2007 at 9:10 pm Thanks for the info………but not sure if it is the resister in my case… I have a 2000 Dakota Quad 4.7l with 192,000kms. My heater blower motor started acting up last winter. When I turned the heater blower switch on in any position nothing would happen. BUT if I tapped on the blower motor houseing(under the passenger side dash) or anywhere in that area the blower would start up and STAY running(in any switch position) until I shut off the truck or switched off the blower all the way off( the center dial to off). Then if I turned it back on most of the time the fan would not come on again in any position until i tapped on the heater housing? If I did not bother to tap on the housing to get the blower running after starting the truck and turning on the heater…..and i started driving, sometimes the blower would start up if the truck hit a bump. and stay running, like I said untill it was shut off. As time has progressed I noticed after having to tap the housing to get the blower running, it would start but running slower and slower and making some noise. ?? Progressively got worse over the months and….. Now it does not work at all. SO im pretty sure it is not the resistor unit. How hard is it to replace the blower motor? My Chilton manual says that I have to disconnect the AC lines and release the coolant(refrigerant) as part of the procedure to replace the blower motor? Is this absolutely nescessary? That would mean I would have to put it in the shop to recharge the ac, etc. If I could replace the blower myself would be cheaper for sure and would be nice not having to frig with the A/C part of it. Any tips would be appreciated! Thanks # 104 Pete Sep 12th, 2007 at 8:24 pm Your site is great. After reading it last night I went to the dealer the next morning to pick up the part. But instead of just going to the part counter I stopped at the service desk to get an estimate to get the problem fixed. This is where it gets funny. The guy quoted me $189 for the fix. I just smiled and asked why it would be so much? I stated that the book stated it takes 1.4 hours to install and the part was $12.99. I then told him it was a 5 min install with a basic 1/4″ socket. He then went to talk to his manager and he came over and stated he over quoted the fix. The estimate then went down to $54. I think he thought I was from the local TV station. I just laughed and then went to the parts counter and picked up the part(by the way it was $10.99) went home and installed it in 5 mins. I love the power of the internet. Thanks for a great posting and a laugh at the dealer…Oh I works perfect…Pete # 105 justin Sep 14th, 2007 at 7:21 pm Much help bro ive been drivin threw arizona summer with the problem sweatin to death….much help # 106 Al Sep 17th, 2007 at 5:47 am Thanks so much, this is very helpful. Unfortunately I spent 6 hours ripping the dash apart to check the control module, blower fan is out and I finally got to the resistor card. Wish I would have checked on-line sooner but I at least know what the problem is now and should only cost $15 to fix. Thanks again

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