The Birds of Eden
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Birding Meccas
Tourist information:
www.gotrinidadandtobago.com Airports: Piarco International Airport, 30 min. east of Port-of-Spain.
Hotels:
Asa Wright Nature Center & Lodge $$$ Spring Hill Estate, Arima ☎ 800/426-7781 in the U.S., or 868/667-4655;
www.asawright.org Kapok Hotel $$ 16–18 Cotton Hill ☎ 868/622-5765;
www.kapokhotel.com
Every year, Trinidad's capital city, Port of Spain, is swept up in a famously festive Carnival celebration. Meanwhile, a short distance away in the Caroni Swamp, Trinidad's national bird, the scarlet ibis, flits about, decked out more brilliantly than any Carnival reveler.
The sixth-largest island in the Caribbean, lying just 11km (6¾ miles) off the Venezuelan coast, Trinidad has such a varied ecosystem—mountainous rainforests, plains, several major river systems, extensive wetlands—that it supports some 400 species of birds, more than 600 species of butterflies, and 97 native mammals, including exotics like the red howler monkey, the ocelot, and the collared peccary (a type of boar). The crown jewel of Trinidad's natural world is the Asa Wright Nature Center (www.asawright.org), a 607-hectare (1,500-acre) wildlife sanctuary located in a former coffee, citrus, and cacao plantation high in the lush rainforest of Trinidad's hilly Northern Range. Day visitors can hike around miles of forest trails, take a guided nature tour, or have a buffet-style luncheon of local cuisine; you can also stay overnight in the Asa Wright Center Lodge, occupying an old plantation house and surrounding cottages. The bird-watching at Asa Wright is unparalleled: The center's 150-plus species list includes such rarely spotted birds as the violaceous trogon, the channel-billed toucan, the copper-rumped hummingbird, purple and green honeycreepers, the silver-beaked tanager, bearded and golden-headed manakins, the bearded bellbird, and a nesting pair of ornate hawk-eagles. Twenty-nine types of bats have also been spotted in the area, as have leaf-cutter and army ants, nine-banded armadillos, iguanas, and tegu lizards. Visitors staying for 3 or more nights are allowed to peek in on the world's most accessible colony of rare, nocturnal oilbirds, which nest by day in a cave on the property.
Trinidad's increasingly threatened wetlands are also favorite destinations for birders. A top site is the Caroni Swamp on the west coast, where the scarlet ibis feasts on a shellfish diet that turns its plumage bright red. During peak season (Oct–Mar), the ibis population can reach 15,000. A boat tour through the swamp's marshes, lagoons, mud flats, and mangrove forests may reveal 190 other bird species, including egrets and herons, as well as tree boas, caimans, silky anteaters, raccoons, oysters, crabs, and 24 varieties of fin-fish. The 1,538 hectare (3,800-acre) Nariva Swamp on Trinidad's southeast coast is the largest wetlands in the Caribbean, a varied mosaic that includes Moriche palms, wild rice, and scattered hardwood forests. Birders can find 171 species here, from the Amazonian parrot and whistling duck to the rarely spotted red-bellied macaw and the endangered seed-eating finch; boating through the swamp, you may spot everything from butterflies and giant snails to opossums, anteaters, porcupines, anacondas, and manatees.
You may also want to visit the Pierre-Point Wildfowl Trust bird sanctuary (Flagstaff Hill, Long Circular Rd (☎ 868/658-4230located; , oddly enough, beside an oil refinery—and, between March and August, make nighttime visits to the beaches along Trinidad's northeast coast to view leatherback turtles laying their eggs.