Tulsa is the second-largest city in the state of Oklahoma and 45th-largest in the United States. With an estimated population of 382,872 in
2006,[1] it is
the principal municipality of the Tulsa Metropolitan Statistical Area, a
region of 897,752 residents projected to reach one million between 2010 and 2012.[2] In
2006, the Tulsa-Bartlesville Combined
Statistical Area had a population of 946,993 residents.[3] The city serves as the county seat of Tulsa County, the most densely populated county in Oklahoma.[4]
Tulsa was first settled in the 1830s by the Creek Native American tribe. In 1921, it was the site of the infamous Tulsa Race Riot, one of the largest and most destructive acts of racial violence in the history of the
United States.[5] For most of
the 20th century, the city held the nickname "Oil Capital of the World" and
played a major role as one of the most important hubs for the American oil
industry.[6] Tulsa has
been credited as the birthplace of Route 66[7] and the home of Western Swing
music.[8]
Once heavily dependent on the oil industry, economic downturn and subsequent
diversification efforts created an economic base in the energy, finance, aviation, telecommunications and technology sectors.[9] The Tulsa Port of Catoosa, at the head of the McClellan-Kerr Arkansas River Navigation System, is the most inland
riverport in the U.S. with access to international waterways.[10][11] Two institutions of higher education within the city operate at the NCAA Division I level, Oral Roberts University and the University of
Tulsa.
Located near Tornado Alley, the city frequently experiences severe weather. It is situated on the Arkansas River at the
foothills of the Ozark Mountains in northeast Oklahoma, a region of the state known as
"Green Country." Considered the cultural and arts center of Oklahoma,[12][13] Tulsa houses two world-renowned art museums, full-time professional opera and ballet companies, and
one of the nation's largest concentrations of art deco architecture.[14] In 2005, the city was selected
as one of "America's Most Livable Large Cities."[15] People from Tulsa are described as "Tulsans."
History
-
The Meadow Gold sign greeted Route 66 travelers in Tulsa for decades.
What was to ultimately become Tulsa was originally part of Indian Territory and was
first settled by the Lochapoka and Creek tribes in 1836.[16] They established a home under a large oak tree at the present day intersection of
Cheyenne Avenue and 18th Street, and named their new settlement "Tallasi", meaning "old town" in the Creek language, which later
became "Tulsa".[16] On
January 18 1898, Tulsa was officially incorporated and elected
its first mayor, Edward Calkins.[17]
A small town near the banks of the Arkansas River in 1901, Tulsa's first oil well,
named Sue Bland No. 1,[17] was established that year. By 1905, the discovery of the large Glenn Pool nearby
(site of the present day town of Glenpool) prompted a rush of entrepreneurs to the
area's growing number of oil fields; Tulsa's population swelled to over 140,000 between 1901 and 1930.[18] Known
as the "Oil Capital of the World" for most of the 20th century, the city's success in the energy industry prompted construction
booms in the popular Art Deco style of the time.[6] Profits from the oil industry continued through the Great Depression, helping the city's economy fare better than most in the United
States during the 1930s.[19]
Cain's Ballroom came to be known as the "Carnegie Hall of Western Swing"
[8] in the early 20th century.
In the early 20th century, Tulsa was home to "Black Wall Street," one of the
most prosperous African American communities in the United States at the time.[5] Located in the Greenwood neighborhood, it was the site of the Tulsa Race
Riot, one of the nation's costliest acts of racial violence and civil disorder.[5] Sixteen hours of rioting on May 31 and June 1, 1921 resulted in
over 800 people admitted to local hospitals with injuries, an estimated 10,000 left homeless, 35 city blocks composed of 1,256
residences destroyed by fire, and $1.8 million in property damage.[5] Twenty-three black and 16 white citizens were reported killed, but estimates suggest as
many as 300, mostly blacks, died.[5]
In 1927, Tulsa businessman Cyrus Avery, known the "Father of Route 66,"[20] began his campaign to create a road linking Chicago to California by establishing
the U.S. Highway 66 Association in Tulsa, earning the city the nickname the
"Birthplace of Route 66."[7] Once
completed, Route 66 took an important role in Tulsa's development as the city served as a
popular rest stop for travelers, who were greeted by Route 66 icons such as the Meadow Gold Sign and the Blue Whale of Catoosa. During this period, Bob Wills and his
group The Texas Playboys began their long performing stint at a small ballroom in
downtown Tulsa. In 1935, Cain's Ballroom became the base for the group,[8] which is largely credited for
creating Western Swing music. The venue continued to attract famous musicians through its
history, and is still in operation today.[8] For the remainder of the mid-20th century, a master plan called for the construction
of parks, churches, museums, rose gardens, improved infrastructure, and increased national advertising.[6] The Spavinaw Dam, built during this
era to accommodate the city's water needs, was considered one of the largest public works projects of the era.[21] In the 1950s, Time magazine dubbed Tulsa "America's Most Beautiful
City."[6]
The centerpiece of the Vision 2025 projects, the BOK Center, began construction in 2005.
A national recession greatly affected the city's economy in 1982, as areas of Texas and Oklahoma heavily dependent on oil
witnessed freefall in gas prices and a mass exodus of oil industries.[22] Tulsa, heavily dependent on the oil industry, was one of the hardest hit cities by the fall
of oil prices.[22] By 1992, the state's
economy had fully recovered,[22] but
leaders would attempt to expand into sectors unrelated to oil and energy.
In 2003, the "Vision 2025" program was approved by voters with the purpose of enhancing
and revitalizing Tulsa's infrastructure and tourism industry. The keystone project of the initiative, the BOK Center, was designed to be a home for the city's minor league hockey and arena football teams, as well as
a venue for major concerts and conventions. The multi-purpose arena, designed by famed architect Cesar Pelli, broke ground in 2005 and completion is expected in 2008.[23] In 2004, the city was selected as the site for the world's largest free-standing
statue, to be constructed on Holmes Peak near downtown.[24] Originally slated for completion in 2007,
developers in 2007 pledged an unveiling in 2011, with construction beginning in late 2007.[24] If
built, the statue, dubbed "The American", would stand 217 feet, or about
60 feet taller than the Statue of Liberty in New York City.[25] The 21-story monument is anticipated
by developers to be a national icon similar to the Gateway Arch,
Mount Rushmore, and the Statue of
Liberty.[26]
Law and government
-
The Tulsa City Hall serves as the base for most city government functions.
A mayor-council government has been in place in Tulsa since 1989 when the
city converted from a city commission government deemed wasteful and less
efficient.[27] Since the change, Tulsa mayors have been given more power in accordance
with a strong mayoral system and have greater control of a more consolidated
array of governmental branches.[27] Plurality voting is used
to elect mayors, who serve a term in office of four years. The present mayor of Tulsa is Kathryn
Taylor, a Democrat, who previously served as Secretary of
Commerce and Tourism for the state of Oklahoma. Taylor unseated Republican William LaFortune in his reelection
campaign of April 2006. A notable Tulsa political figure, Jim Inhofe, who represents Oklahoma
in the United States Senate, served as the mayor of Tulsa early in his political
career.[28]
A city councilor from each of the city's nine council districts is elected every two years, each serving a term of two years.
Councilors are elected from their own respective districts based on a plurality voting
system, and serve on the Tulsa City Council. Roscoe Turner of District Three currently serves as the council chairman
along with Vice Chairman John Eagleton of District Seven. As a whole, the council acts as the legislative body of city
government, which aims to pass laws, approve the city budget, and manage efficiency in city government. In accordance with the
mayor-council form of government, the Tulsa City Council and the office of the Mayor coordinate in city government operations. A
third body of the government, the city auditor, is elected independently of the city council and mayor to ensure that the auditor
can act in an objective manner. This position serves a term of two years, and the current city auditor is Phil Wood, a
Democrat.[27]
Municipal and State laws are enforced in Tulsa by the Tulsa Police Department, an organization of about 770 officers as of
2006.[29] In 2004, Tulsa's crime rate was 7806.1 per
100,000 people, about 1.5 times the national average.[30] There were 58 murders, 1096 robberies, and 6,592 burglaries in 2004.[30] The city serves as the seat of county government for Tulsa County, and lies mostly within Oklahoma's 1st congressional district, with its far northwestern areas in southern
Osage County in Oklahoma's 3rd congressional district.
Sister cities
In accordance with Sister Cities International, an organization that
began under President Dwight Eisenhower in 1956, Tulsa has been given eight
international sister cities in an attempt to foster cross-cultural understanding:
Geography
The Tulsa skyline as viewed from Turkey Mountain
Tulsa is located in the northeastern corner of Oklahoma, 99 miles northeast of
Oklahoma City; situated between the edge of the Great Plains and the foot of the Ozark Mountains in a generally
forested region of rolling hills. The city touches the eastern extent of the Cross
Timbers, an ecoregion of forest and prairie
transitioning from the drier plains of the west to the wetter forests of the east.[31] With a wetter climate than points westward, Tulsa serves as a gateway to "Green Country", a popular and official designation for northeast Oklahoma that stems from the
region's green vegetation and relatively high amount of hills and lakes compared to central and western areas of
Oklahoma,[32] which lie largely in the drier Great Plains
region of the Central United States. Northeastern Oklahoma is the most topographically diverse part of the state, containing
seven of Oklahoma's 11 ecoregions[33] and more than half
of its state parks.[34] The region encompasses 30 lakes
or reservoirs[35] and borders the neighboring states of
Kansas, Missouri, and Arkansas. The geographic coordinates of the city of Tulsa
are 36°7′53″N, 95°56′14″W (36.131294,
-95.937332),1 with an elevation of
213 meters (700 ft) above sea level.
As seen from space, most of Tulsa lies east of the Arkansas River.
Topography
The city is split by the prominent Arkansas River, which flows in a wide,
sandy-bottomed channel. Its flow through the Tulsa area is controlled by upstream flood control
reservoirs, but its width and depth can vary widely throughout the year, such as during periods of high rainfall or severe
drought. However, a low-water dam maintains a full channel at all times in the area adjacent to downtown Tulsa.[36] Heavily wooded and with abundant parks and water areas, the
city holds several prominent hills with names such as "Shadow Mountain" and "Turkey Mountain", which create varied terrain,
especially in its southern portions. While its central and northern sections are generally flat to gently undulating, the Osage
Hills extension into the northwestern part of the city further varies the landscape. Holmes Peak, the future site of
The American monument in the northwest corner of the city, is the tallest point in five
counties at 1030 ft (314 m).[37] According to
the United States Census Bureau, the city has a total area of
483.9 square kilometers (186.8 mi²).
473.1 square kilometers (182.6 mi²) of it is land and 10.9 square kilometers (4.2 mi²) of it (2.24%) is
water.
Climate
Tulsa is situated near the heart of Tornado Alley and has a temperate climate of the continental variety with a yearly
average temperature of 61°F and an average rainfall of 39 in (99 cm).[38][39] As is typical temperate zones, weather patterns vary by season with
occasional extremes in temperature and rainfall.[40]
Lightning over downtown Tulsa is common in the spring months.
Primarily in the spring and early summer months, the city is subjected to severe thunderstorms containing large hail, damaging winds, or small
tornadoes,[40] providing the area with a disproportionate share of its annual
rainfall.[39] Severe weather is not limited, though, to this season; on December 5 1975, for example, Tulsa experienced a tornado.[40] Due to
its potential for major flooding events, the city has developed one of the most extensive flood control systems in the
nation.[41] A comprehensive
flood management plan was developed in 1984 following a severe flood caused by a stalled weather front that dropped 15 inches of rain overnight, killing 14, injuring 288, and
destroying 7,000 buildings totaling $180 million in damage.[41] In the early 1990s[41] and again in 2000,[42] FEMA honored Tulsa as leading the
nation in flood plain management.
Temperatures of 40 °C (100 °F) or higher are often observed from July to early September,[43] usually accompanied by high humidity
brought in by southerly winds.[40] Lack of air circulation due to heat and humidity during the summer months
leads to higher concentrations of ozone, prompting the city to release "Ozone Alerts", encouraging
all parties to do their part in complying with the Clean Air Act and E.P.A. standards.[44] The autumn season is usually short, consisting of pleasant, sunny days followed by cool
nights.[43] Winter temperatures, while generally
mild, occasionally experience extremes below -20 °C (0 °F) while annual snowfall averages about 9 inches.[38]
| Weather averages for Tulsa, Oklahoma |
| Month |
Jan |
Feb |
Mar |
Apr |
May |
Jun |
Jul |
Aug |
Sep |
Oct |
Nov |
Dec |
Year |
| Average high °F (°C) |
46 (7) |
52 (11) |
61 (16) |
72 (22) |
79 (26) |
88 (31) |
93 (33) |
93 (33) |
84 (28) |
74 (23) |
60 (15) |
50 (10) |
() |
| Average low °F (°C) |
26 (-3) |
30 (-1) |
39 (3) |
50 (10) |
59 (15) |
68 (20) |
72 (22) |
70 (21) |
62 (16) |
51 (10) |
38 (3) |
30 (-1) |
() |
| Precipitation inch (cm) |
1.5 (3) |
1.9 (4) |
3.1 (7) |
3.8 (9) |
5.7 (14) |
4.5 (11) |
3.4 (8) |
2.9 (7) |
4.2 (10) |
3.4 (8) |
2.6 (6) |
2.0 (5) |
() |
| Source: Weatherbase[39] April 2007 |
Cityscape
The
Philtower, built in the art deco style, is now surrounded by contemporary office
buildings.
A building boom in the early 20th century gave Tulsa one of the largest concentrations of art
deco architecture in the United States.[45] Most
commonly in the zigzag and streamline styles,[19] the city's art deco is dotted throughout its older
neighborhoods, primarily in downtown and midtown. A collection of large art deco structures such as the Mid-Continent Tower, the Boston Avenue Methodist
Church, and the Philtower, have attracted events promoting preservation and
architectural interest. In 2001, Tulsa served as the host city for the International Art Deco Congress, a semiannual event
designed to promote art deco architecture internationally.[46] Building booms in the 1970s and 80s gave the city a larger base of contemporary
architectural styles. The BOK Tower, built during the period, is the tallest building in any
of the five "Frontier States" of Oklahoma, Kansas,
Nebraska, North Dakota and South Dakota.[47] The city also has the second-tallest building in the state, the
Cityplex Tower in south Tulsa.[48] As one of the area's unique architectural complexes, Oral Roberts
University is built in a Post-Modern Futuristic style, incorporating bright gold
structures with sharp, jetting edges and clear geometric shapes. The city's new arena, the BOK
Center, incorporates many of Tulsa's most prominent themes, including Native American, art deco, and contemporary
architectural styles.[49] Intended to be an architectural
icon for the city,[50] the
building was designed by César Pelli, the architect of the famous Petronas Towers in Malaysia.
Neighborhoods
-
Downtown Tulsa is an area of approximately 1.4 square miles surrounded by an inner-dispersal loop created by Interstate 244,
Highway 64, and Highway 75.[51] The area serves as
Tulsa's financial and business district, and is the topic of a large initiative to draw tourism, which includes plans to
capitalize on the area's historic architecture.[52] Much of Tulsa's convention space is located in downtown, such as the Tulsa Performing Arts
Center and the Tulsa Convention Center, and beginning in 2008, the
BOK Center. Prominent downtown sub-districts include the Blue Dome District, the Brady Arts
district, and the Greenwood Historical District.
The Arkansas River marks the division between West Tulsa and other regions of the city.
The city's historical residential core lies in an area known as Midtown, containing upscale neighborhoods built in the early
1900s with architecture ranging from art deco to Greek Revival. The University of Tulsa, the
Swan Lake neighborhood, Philbrook
Museum, and the upscale shopping districts of Utica Square, Cherry Street, and
Brookside are located in this region. A large portion of the city's southern half was developed since the 1970s, containing low
density housing and retail developments. This region, marked by secluded homes and suburban neighborhoods, contains one of the
state's largest shopping malls, Woodland Hills Mall, Southern Hills Country Club, and Oral Roberts
University. East of Highway 169, a diverse racial makeup marks the eastern portions of the city, with large
Asian and Mexican communities and much of
the city's manufacturing industry.
Areas of Tulsa west of the Arkansas River are called West Tulsa, and are
marked by large parks, wilderness reserves, and large oil refineries. The northern tier of the city is home to a large percentage
of Tulsa's African-American community, and the area's Booker T. Washington High School, an African-American high school during the segregation era, is
now a magnet school judged to be the 58th best high school in the United States by
Newsweek Magazine in 2005.[53] Included in the region is the Greenwood Historic District and the adjacent campus of OSU-Tulsa, the Gilcrease Museum, the Tulsa
International Airport, the Tulsa Zoo, the Tulsa Air and Space Museum, and the nation's
third-largest municipal park, Mohawk Park.[54]
Economy
- See also: List of companies
based in Tulsa, Oklahoma
River developments such as the "Riverwalk Crossing" stem from recent economic initiatives.
The BOK Tower serves as the world headquarters for Williams Companies.
Though the oil industry has historically dominated Tulsa's economy, efforts in
economic diversification have created a base in the sectors of aerospace, finance, technology, telecommunications, high tech, and manufacturing.[9] The Tulsa International Airport
(TUL) and the Tulsa Port of Catoosa, the nation's most inland seaport, connect the
region with international trade and transportation. An American Airlines maintenance
base at Tulsa International Airport is the city's largest employer and the largest maintenance facility in the world, serving as
the airline's global maintenance and engineering headquarters,[55] while the Tulsa Port of Catoosa and the Tulsa International Airport house extensive
industrial parks.[56][57]
Products from Tulsa manufacturers account for about 60% of Oklahoma's exports,[58] and in 2001, the city's total gross
product was in the top one-third of metropolitan areas, states, and countries, with more than $29 billion in total goods,
growing at a rate of $250 million each year.[59] In 2006, Forbes magazine rated Tulsa as second in the nation in income growth,
and one of the best cities to do business in the country.[60] Usually among the lowest in the nation in terms of cost of doing business, the Tulsa
Metropolitan Area in 2005 was rated among the five lowest metropolitan areas in the United States for that category.[61]
A number of large financial corporations are headquartered in Tulsa, the largest being the BOK Financial Corporation, the parent company to the Bank of Oklahoma, the Bank of Texas, the
Bank of Arkansas, the Bank of Albuquerque, the Bank of Arizona, Colorado State Bank and Trust, and the Bank of Kansas
City.[62] The semi-national
gas station chain QuikTrip, the national car rental
companies of Vanguard and Dollar-Thrifty, and Mazzio's semi-national pizza chain
also call Tulsa home. Many international oil and gas-related companies have headquarters in Tulsa, including Williams Companies, SemGroup, Syntroleum, ONEOK, Samson and Excel Energy. Meanwhile, there are 30 companies
in Tulsa that employ more than 1,000 people,[63] though small businesses make up more than 80% of the city's
companies.[64]
During a national recession from 2001 to 2003, the city lost 28,000 jobs.[58] In response, a development initiative, Vision 2025, promised
to incite economic growth and recreate lost jobs. Projects spurred by the initiative promised urban revitalization,
infrastructure improvement, tourism development, riverfront retail development, and further diversification of the economy. As of
2007, employment levels have surpassed pre-recession heights[65][58] and the city is in a significant economic development and investment surge.[66]
Education
- See also: List of schools in Tulsa,
Oklahoma
There are three primary public school districts in the city of Tulsa. Tulsa Public
Schools, with nine high schools and over 41,000 students, is the largest school district in Oklahoma.[67] Each with one upper high
school, Jenks and Union schools are
the two other primary districts, covering the southern portion of the city near the towns of Jenks and Broken Arrow. The Catholic Diocese of Tulsa supports a system of parochial and diocesan schools,
including Bishop Kelley High School. Another Catholic high school,
Cascia Hall Preparatory School, is administered by Augustinians.[68] Most other
private schools have religious affiliations with various Jewish and Protestant denominations, including Holland Hall School, affiliated with the Episcopal Church. In 2006, there were more than 90,000 students
attending Tulsa County's public schools.[69]
The largest library system in the Tulsa Metropolitan Area, the Tulsa City-County Library, contains 1.7 million volumes in 25
library facilities.[70] The library is active in the
community, holding events and programs at most branches, including free computer classes, children's story-times, business and
job assistance, and scholarly databases with information on a variety of topics.[69]
The McFarlin Library at the University of Tulsa is a federal depository library holding over three million items.[71] Founded in 1930, the library
is known for its collection of Native American works and the original works of Irish author James
Joyce.[71] The Tulsa
City-County Library and the University of Tulsa's Law Library are also federal depository libraries, making Tulsa the only city
in Oklahoma with more than two federal depository libraries.[72]
Higher education
- See also: List of
Colleges and Universities in Tulsa, Oklahoma
Tulsa has 14 institutions of higher education, including two private universities: the University of Tulsa, a school founded in 1894; and Oral
Roberts University, a school founded by evangelist Oral Roberts in 1963. The
University of Tulsa has an enrollment of 4,125 undergraduate and graduate students[73] and is ranked among the best 123 Western Colleges by the Princeton Review in 2007, which also ranks it in the top ten schools nationally for quality of
life, overall happiness of students, and relationship with the community.[74] Oral Roberts University, a charismatic Christian
institution with an enrollment of 5,109 undergraduate and graduate students,[75] was rated in 2007 by the Princeton Review one of the 123 best in the Western United States and
among the nation's top 50 schools for graduate programs by U.S. News and World
Report in 2007.[76]