Whittlesey

This article needs additional citations for verification. Please help improve this article by adding reliable references. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. (November 2008)

Coordinates: 52°33′24″N 0°07′51″W / 52.55668°N 0.13072°W / 52.55668; -0.13072

Whittlesey (Whittlesea)
Whittlesey (Whittlesea)  Whittlesey (Whittlesea) shown within Cambridgeshire
Population	15,581 (2001 Census)
OS grid reference	TL271967
District	Fenland
Shire county	Cambridgeshire
Region	East
Country	England
Sovereign state	United Kingdom
Post town	PETERBOROUGH
Postcode district	PE7
Dialling code	01733
Police	Cambridgeshire
Fire	Cambridgeshire
Ambulance	East of England
EU Parliament	East of England
List of places: UK • England • Cambridgeshire

Whittlesey (historically known as Whittlesea - the name of the railway station is still spelt this way - or Witesie) is an ancient Fenland market town around six miles (10 km) east of Peterborough in the county of Cambridgeshire in England. It has a population of around 15,000 (including the neighbouring parishes of Coates, Eastrea and Pondersbridge).

Location

Whittlesey is located between the city of Peterborough, 6 miles (10 km) to the west and the town of March, 11 miles (18 km) to the east, and is bordered to the north by the River Nene and to the south by Whittlesey Dyke. Historically it was connected to Peterborough and March by the Roman road Fen Causeway constructed in the first century AD, a route approximately followed by the modern A605. The rail station is on the line between Peterborough and Ely (historically the Great Eastern Line), with direct trains to Cambridge, Birmingham, Liverpool, Leicester, Stansted Airport and others.

History and architecture

Whittlesey appears in the Domesday Book as Witesie, but it is probable that the name derives from Whittle's Ea, where Ea is a Saxon term for an island. Indeed the land was once owned and presided over by a man named 'Whittle', so the name literally translates as 'Whittle's Island'.^{[citation needed]}

Before the draining of the fens, Whittlesey was an island of dry ground surrounded by the marshy fens. Excavations of nearby Flag Fen indicate thriving local settlements as far back as 1000 BC. In more recent times Whittlesey was linked to Peterborough in the west and March in the east by the Roman Fen Causeway, probably built in the 1st century AD, and Roman artifacts have been recovered at nearby Eldernell.^{[citation needed]}

At one time Whittlesey is thought to have had its own abbey, but subsequently the town's two parishes of St Mary's and St Andrew's were controlled by the abbeys in Thorney and Ely respectively until the Dissolution of the Monasteries (c.1540). St Mary's church dates back to the fifteenth century, but the majority of the building is later, and the church now boasts one of the largest buttressed spires in Cambridgeshire.^[1]. St Andrew's is a mixture of perpendicular and decorated styles and has records back to 1635.^[2]. The parishes were combined for administrative purposes by the Whittlesey Improvement Act of 1849. Despite the proximity of Peterborough, Whittlesey is in the Diocese of Ely.

Until its draining in 1851, nearby Whittlesey Mere was the largest lake in southern England,^{[citation needed]} and the town is still accessible by water, connected to the river Nene by King's Dyke which forms part of the Nene Ouse Navigation link. Moorings can be found at Ashline Lock alongside the Manor Leisure Centre's cricket and football pitches.^{[citation needed]}

Other notable historic features include the market cross, known as the buttercross, dating back to 1680, the old town hall (once also serving as the fire station, and now the town museum) of 1857 and a number of thatched mud walls.

The town is also notable for its three 80-metre high wind turbines, which are the largest on-shore turbines in England.^{[citation needed]} They power the McCains chips plant, reducing their electricity bills by 60%.^[3]

The town has one secondary school, Sir Harry Smith Community College, and three primary schools. There is also another primary school in the neighbouring village of Coates. Whittlesey Workhouse once stood where the College now is; built in the 1800s, it was a large building with an impressive tower, which earned the building its nickname, 'The Spike'. Coates school used the building in 1937, while their own was under repair, and the property was demolished in 1938. The secondary school was built in 1952, as well as a new housing estate nearby.^{[citation needed]}

The Market Place

The Market Place, or Market Square, located in the centre of Whittlesey, is still the site of the town's market. Held every Friday, (as it has been for many years) the market is no longer of great importance to the town.^[4] The Market Place is also used as the main bus stop (except on Fridays, when it is located down Queen Street).^{[citation needed]} The following buildings are located on the Market Square:

The Buttercross:

Situated in the centre of the Market Place, and dating back to 1680, this was originally a place for people to sell goods at market. In the 1800s, it was considered useless, and orders were given for the building to be demolished. It was only saved when a local businessman donated some slate tiles for the roof. Today, it serves as a bus shelter, and is the town's most famous landmark.^{[citation needed]}

Harrington House (No. 8 Market Place):

Located near to the George Hotel, the original part of this house dates back to Tudor times, and was part of St. Mary's Church monks' kitchen. Dr. Waddelow, who is often incorrectly believed to have lived at No. 11, extended the house in 1900. A sundial, made from the top of the church spire, (which was taken down in the early 20th Century) is located in the garden. ^[5]

The George Hotel (No. 10 Market Place):

The Grade II listed George Hotel (previously the George and Star), currently owned by national chain Wetherspoons, is the only remaining pub on the Market Square, one of six that were formerly located there, but has been closed since 2007. The building, which dates back to the late 1700s, used to extend further eastward; a meat shop (presumably No.9) and archway for horses and carts used to stand there, but were demolished to make way for Station Road. The pub was boarded up after it closed in 2007.^{[citation needed]}

As of 2009, no work has been done to the building, despite Wetherspoons' ambitious plans, which were approved by Fenland District Council in 2008. Work (to cost an estimated £2million) was due to start in September the same year, but the building remains boarded up. Plans included total restoration of the pub, a beer garden, an extension and a name change, reverting back to the original 'George and Star'.^[6]

On the night of June 26 2009, at around 7pm, a number of deliberate fires were started in the bar and lounge area. Thanks to the fire brigade's quick work, damage was limited to the ground floor, with the exterior showing no signs of fire damage.^[7]

No. 11 Market Place:

Number 11, known locally as the Old Post Office, has records dating back to 1749. It is a large, Georgian, three-storeyed building, with a large courtyard and a number of outbuildings. The building is Grade II* listed. Before becoming the Post Office in 1913, the building was the house of two doctors and a Reverend, as well as many others. Extensions and renovations were carried out in 1933. The Post Office business moved to High Causeway in 1998 (and then to its current location at Broad Street) and the building has been vacant since. It was boarded up in around 2005. As of 2009, the buildings and courtyard are in a serious state of disrepair.

The property is currently owned by Cambridge-based company The Whitfield Group. In 2006 they submitted a planning application which included partial demolition of an extension at the rear of the existing structure (a later addition, of little historical importance), and the erection of seven new dwellings and another three-storey building in the old courtyard. Permission to demolish a listed building would not normally be granted, but the planning committee said that it would be allowed if the structure was beyond repair. The committee requested that the original derelict house be renovated before work begins on the new houses.^[8]

No. 12 Market Place:

No. 12 is a Grade II listed building, and is situated in the corner of the Market Place. It was recently up for sale through a local estate agents, who said that it would be suitable for residential or commercial use, subject to planning permission.^{[citation needed]}

No. 13 Market Place:

Situated on the western side of Market Square, no. 13 is currently used as an Indian restaurant, called Sonargaon Tandoori.^{[citation needed]}

Proposed developments

In July 2009, a new housing development, to be situated between Whittlesey and the nearby village of Eastrea, was proposed. As well as 500 homes, the project would include a nursing home and other amentities. Developers held a meeting at which local residents expressed concerns about the development's possible adverse impact on Whittlesey's infrastructure.^[9]

Whittlesey today

In May 2009, Cllr Derek Stebbing became mayor of the town, after Cllr Steve Garratt stepped down. Garratt was the leader of a project earlier in the year in which Whittlesey raised £10,000 for bushfire victims in Whittlesea, Melbourne.^[10]

The 'Whittlesey Summer Festival' (which, despite the name, is held on a Sunday in mid-September) takes over much of the town centre. Attractions in 2009 included a selection of classic cars, a large Italian Food stall, fairground rides, a steam engine, and a flying display by a Hawker Hurricane of the Battle of Britain Memorial Flight.^[11]

Since mid-2009, Whittlesey has had its own community magazine, entitled Whittlesey Life.^{[citation needed]}

Whittlesey is twinned with Stadt Nettetal, Germany.^{[citation needed]}

Public Houses

Whittlesey has a long history of public houses; at one time, the town is thought to have had 52 - one for each week of the year!^[5]

Current Pubs

• The Hero of Aliwal (Moved from Aliwal Road to a new building on Church Street in the late 60s. A sign reading 'The Old Hero' can be seen in the window of the old building, now a private dwelling)^{[citation needed]}
• The Boat B&B (CAMRA Cambridgeshire Pub of the Year 2009. Located on Ramsey Road)
• The Letter B (Formerly The Bee, but changed back to original name. Located on Church Street)
• The Black Bull Inn (Located on Market Street)
• The Bricklayers Arms (Located on Station Road)
• The Railway (Located on Station Road)
• The Ram (Located in Delph)
• The Falcon (Located on London Street)
• The New Crown (Located on High Causeway)
• The Straw Bear (Located on Drybread Road)

^[12]

Former public houses

• The White Lion (Hero of Aliwal moved here in the late 1960s)
• The White Horse (Now a private dwelling, but the original pub counter is still in place!)
• The Letter A (Now Caesar Smith art studio)
• The Letter C (Now private dwelling)
• Hare and Hounds/Mortons Fork (Name changed from Hare and Hounds to Mortons Fork in 1968. The pub closed in the early 2000s, and planning permission for seven houses next to the former pub was approved in April 2003. Part of the old building was demolished, but the part that remains is now a private dwelling. As of October 2009, the older part (the original pub) is for sale through a local estate agent)^[13]
• The Angel (Demolished in the 1960s, site now Nationwide Building Society)
• The Queens Head (Site now Whittlesey Library)
• The Old Crown (Located on Gracious Street. Now private dwelling)
• The Boat and Anchor (Now private dwelling)^{[citation needed]}
• The White Swan, also known as 'The Mucky Duck' (Grain transporters on the way to Wisbech would stay at the White Swan and next door at The Dog. The original thatched building was burnt down, and was replaced with a more modern structure. Later, a crane working on the nearby Dog-in-a-Doublet bridge fell through the roof of the pub, which has since been demolished)
• The Three Fishes (Now a private dwelling, although a sign reading "The Three Fishes" can be seen beside the main door)
• The Globe (Located on Funthams Lane)
• The Plough (Located in West End. Now private dwelling)
• The Nag's Head (Now a private dwelling. Located on High Causeway)
• The Wheatsheaf (located on Eastgate, site now Wheatsheaf House)
• The Packhorse (Located in West End, since demolished)
• The Duke's Head (Located on Windmill Street, now private dwelling)
• The Carpenter's Arms (located on Station Road, now private dwelling)
• The King's Head (located on Gracious Street, now private dwelling)

Pubs currently closed/derelict

As of October 2009, the following pubs stand derelict and are boarded up. It is unknown if they are to reopen.

• The Dog-in-a-Doublet, or 'The Dog' as it is locally known (Located on North Bank. It is thought that this pub had the area's first vending machine, which dispensed fresh eggs! Rumours of the building, which dates back to the mid-1700s, being structurally unsafe have existed for years)^[14]
• The George (information above in Market Place section)
• The Oatsheaf (Located on Peterborough Road)

^[5]

Whittlesea Straw Bear

The Whittlesea Straw Bear 2008

The festival of the Straw Bear or "Strawbower" is an old custom known only from a small area of Fenland on the borders of Huntingdonshire and Cambridgeshire, including Ramsey Mereside.^[15] (Similar ritual animals have been known in other parts of Europe, and still appear in parts of Germany at Shrovetide.[1] [2][3])

On Plough Tuesday, the day after Plough Monday (the first Monday after Twelfth Night), a man or boy was covered from head to foot in straw and led from house to house where he would dance in exchange for gifts of money, food or beer. The festival was of a stature that farmers would often reserve their best straw for the making of the bear.^[16]

The custom died out early in the 20th century, c.1909 (probably because the local police regarded it as begging), but it was resurrected by the Whittlesea Society in 1980.^[16]

The festival has now expanded to cover the whole weekend when the Bear appears (not Plough Tuesday nowadays, but the second weekend in January instead). On the Saturday of the festival, the Bear processes around the streets with its attendant "keeper" and musicians, followed by numerous traditional dance sides (mostly visitors), including morris men and women, molly dancers, rapper and longsword dancers, clog dancers and others, who perform at various points along the route.^[16]

The Bear dances to a tune (reminiscent of the hymn Jesus Bids us Shine) which featured on Rattlebone and Ploughjack, a 1976 LP by Ashley Hutchings,^[17] along with a spoken description of the original custom (which partly inspired the Whittlesey revival).

Pub sessions of Irish and other traditional music take place in many of the public houses during the day and evening, and a Barn dance or ceilidh and a Cajun dance round off the Saturday night.^[18] The bear "costume" is burned at a ceremony on Sunday lunchtime^[19] (just as, in Germany, the Shrovetide bear costumes are also ceremonially burned after use).[4])

The Whittlesea Straw Bear and Keeper are featured on the album art of The Young Knives album, Voices of Animals and Men.

Famous residents

Sir Harry Smith

Whittlesey's most famous son is undoubtedly Sir Harry George Waklyn Smith (1788-1860), hero of the Battle of Aliwal (South Africa), whose life has been the subject of several books. His illustrious military career saw him rise from a cavalryman in the Whittlesea troop up to the rank of Major General, and Baronet of Aliwal. He was governor of the Cape of Good Hope from 1847-1852 during a period of intense unrest, and whilst he eventually lost the faith of his superiors, he was welcomed back to England a hero.^{[citation needed]}

Recently he has been featured in Rifles by Mark Urban, about the 95th Rifles Napoleonic campaigns through Spain to Waterloo during which time he was a junior officer and served with his two brothers.^{[citation needed]}

Sir Harry is commemorated throughout the Whittlesey area, giving his name to a local school and community centre, among others, and with a bust in St Mary's church. There is also a pub named "The Hero of Aliwal" in his honour (not the original, which was in Aliwal road), and the house in which he was born bears a plaque with his name written on it. At the time of his death, this building was being used as a school, but, at present, is a private house.^{[citation needed]}

He is buried in the local cemetery.^{[citation needed]}

L. P. Hartley

Another famous son of Whittlesey is the renowned author L. P. Hartley.^[20]

David Proud

Eastenders actor David Proud, the first disabled actor to have a regular disabled role in the show, lived in Whittlesey and attended Sir Harry Smith Community College.^{[citation needed]}

See also

• List of places in Cambridgeshire

References

External links

• Whittlesey community website
• 2001 Census
• Straw bear festival
• Site on the hamlet of Eastrea
• Whittlesey's local football team