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Remove wheel. Use a big C clamp to push against the outboard pad a bit to retract the caliper piston a little. Remove the two caliper bolts (1/2 inch head, top and bottom, on the inboard side. Pull the caliper off, remove the pads and tie it up out of the way. Leave the brake line hose connected. Check the master cylinder reservoir for enough capacity to force some brake fluid back up into it. If it's full, remove some. Replace the cap. Use the C clamp to push the piston all the way down until it bottoms out in its bore. You can have the rotor resurfaced or replace it, but if it looks in good condition, this is not essential. Put new pads in the caliper. Use some caliper grease on the back of the pads to prevent squeaking. Also put caliper grease on the inside of the rubber boots on the back that cover the ends of the bushings the caliper bolts go through. You want grease on the outside of the bushings, between them and the caliper body, so that the caliper can move inboard and outboard to center itself over the rotor and the pads wear evenly. Reassemble. Pump brakes before starting on a test drive.
Wiki User
∙ 15y ago
Wiki User
∙ 15y agoRemove wheel Re-install 2 lug nuts to hold rotor in place Remove 2 caliper mounting bolts Slide caliper off rotor Use a "C" clamp to fully depress piston into caliper body Replace inner and outer pads Re-install caliper Depress brake pedal to set pads against rotor PRIOR TO MOVING VEHICLE
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