Probably not a bad ignition switch, but more likely a bad starter solenoid. It takes a lot of current to get a starter to turn, to much to go through such a small switch like the ignition switch. The ignition switch actually controls a relay(solenoid) which can handle the needed current to get the starter going. On a lot of modern cars the solenoid is built into the starter unlike older cars and trucks where it was mounted on the firewall between the battery and the starter.
No, the ignition switch is not located in the tumbler assembly. If the key is stuck try turning the steering wheel each way while at the same time turning the key. If it will not come out then something is wrong with the assembly.
1. bad starter selenoid 2. blown fuse in the circuit 3. bad ground at the starter (not likely, but possible) Start at the starter, with a test light, and work your way back through the curcuit until you find power. That's where the problem will be. If the starter has no power move to the selenoid. If the selenoid had no power in the switch circuit move to the fuse. If the selenoid has no power on the battery side move to the fusable link. Keep working your way to the ignition switch.
replace ignition switch
Sounds like the starter solenoid is stuck. Another possibility is the ignition key switch is not automatically returning from the start to run position. As the switches get older they seem to get stiff. Could be a weak spring in the switch or just gummed up lubricant. The easy test is to try turning the key counter clockwise after starting the engine and see if the starter motor stops running.
If it blows when cranking the starter has failed.
By passkey. If you are talking about a starter by-pass. It is not keyed, but a push button on & off switch. You must break the small wire at the starter relay, or solenoid, and wire the switch in series. After the car starts, you must release the push on/off switch, or you will keep turning the starter motor.
I had a 96 Stratus that would do that, and it turned out to be that the starter was bad.
you need to have ignition switch checked,if switch is good then you need to replace starter motor. a bad ford starter will keep draawing power regardless of key being on or not
it could most likely be ur ignition switch it cant be starter...
Either the starter, starter relay or ignition switch are failing.
Disconnect the wire at the starter and try the ignition. My guess is that the starter itself is the problem. If the fuse does not blow then it is the starter, if it does blow then go to the relay center in the engine compartment and check the starter relay. Work your way back to the ignition switch.
The problem could either be a stuck starter solenoid or a bad ignition switch. He's right, I would lean toward the ignition switch first, but I once had a bobcat that had the contacts in the solenoid fuse together and keep running. I think it was because of a lot of continuous cranking making them really hot.
Bad ignition switch. This is one of the problems experienced by many classic Mustang owners. The problem also has occured in reverse, ignition switch is on and the engine just simply dies. I usually keep a spare ignition switch (a used one which I know works to trobleshoot should the problem arise) and a new one to quickly replace the bad one since they are fairly inexpensive.
1. bad starter selenoid 2. blown fuse in the circuit 3. bad ground at the starter (not likely, but possible) Start at the starter, with a test light, and work your way back through the curcuit until you find power. That's where the problem will be. If the starter has no power move to the selenoid. If the selenoid had no power in the switch circuit move to the fuse. If the selenoid has no power on the battery side move to the fusable link. Keep working your way to the ignition switch.
replace ignition switch
Remove starter and have it tested for drag, load and shorts
There are probably severable possible reasons, but I can only think of a few at the moment. Some of the reasons include: 1. Misalignment of the starter when installed, which allows the teeth on the starter gear to bind with the the teeth on the flywheel, thus preventing disengagement after the engine starts. 2. A defective starter solenoid, which remains [stuck] in the start/engaged postion. 3. A defective ignition/starter switch in which the circuit providing current to the starter solenoid winding coil does not "open" as it should when the key is released and thus be allowed to return to the "run" position.j3h.
I would suspect a defective ignition switch. I would be more inclined to believe it was the starter relay/solenoid thingy i used to have an old amc eagle. and it did same thing starter wouldn't disengage. I replaced the solenoid/starter relay and it worked fine after that.