No
No. The differential heating will probably lock the plugs in place until the engine cools down.
you have to through the wheel wells to ge to spark plugs. use a long extenison and a spark scocket with a sweival built on to it. good lock
next to the spark plugs
Carefully remove aluminum cover on top of engine says 2.4l twin cam ignition coils and plugs are under this cover,(no plug wires on this engine) 4 bolts 13 mm head. small connector needs to be unplugged also. connector has small orange connector lock slides out then use small screwdriver to release lock gray plastic
Reasons include, but are not limited to: 1) water or other contaminates in fuel 2) fouled spark plugs 3) faulty crank sensor 4) vapor lock (if engine is hot)
That is the straight 8 engine, correct? Be sure the fuel filter is clean, the points are adjusted properly, the spark plugs and spark plug wires are in good condition. Vapor lock was a common problem back then. If everything else seems to check out okay and it only happens when the engine is hot, it could be a vapor lock condition. There were several remedies you could try such as wrapping the fuel line with aluminum foil where it runs close to the engine. The addition of an electric fuel pump is another option.
Could be, Battery problem, Starter/solenoid problem, Battery cable connections/condition, Timing way advanced, Could use more info such as the year, make, engine and any modifications that have been done.
There is a rubber o-ring type seal around each spark plug hole in the valve cover. Over time, the rubber hardens and shrinks allowing a leak to develop. You need to replace these seals and the valve cover gasket. If there is a lot of oil on the spark plug, you should remove all the plugs and crank the engine over for a few seconds with the plugs out to avoid a condition of hydraulic lock. Hydraulic lock can cause a no-start condition and can crack the starter, engine, or transmission. The first time you start the engine after doing this you should get the car to a highway area and drive at highway speed for several minutes to remove oil from the catalyst. Oil may damage the catalyst. Any boots that have been coated in oil will likely swell and soften allowing the high voltage to leak and result in a misfire. They should be replaced.
The 2003 BMW 325i uses a coil-over-plug system, so the spark plugs are connected directly to the coils, deep in the cylinder head. To get to the spark plugs: # Remove sound reduction or ignition coil covers as needed # Open control box cover # Disconnect ignition coil electrical connector by lifting up plug lock # Remove ignition coil by pulling straight up # Use the necessary tools to remove the spark plugs There are six plugs, and the factory plugs that come with the car are most likely the NGK BKR6EQUP (laser platinum, 4-ground electrode) ... or if it's not the platinum version, the BKR6EKUB (a dual-ground electrode, semi-surface discharge type).
first what made the motor lock up, and what kind of motor is it , it could be alot of things like no oil, the trans, if its fuel injection and you put gas in the intake to try and start it this would lock it down as well. try pulling the spark plugs and turning over the motor.
1 If the oil leak is large enough the engine maybe running low on oil and the pistons are getting to hot and expanding in the cylinders and would cause them to stick to the cylinder walls slowing the vehicle and eventually they will weld together. The wheels may lock very dangerous! 2 Or the oil leak maybe oil leaking into the cylinders and fouling the spark plugs. If you pull the spark plugs out and they are full of black soot oil is getting into the cylinders. Generally this is by way of a cracked engine block or a leaking Headgasket. Oil in the cylinder fouls the plugs and causes a loss of power. Either is Serious NEVER drive low on oil. If you did drive while the car was Very low on oil #1 is probably your problem.
undo motor mount in front and put jack under engine and gently lower engine until you can see back plugs Well, if you want to make it harder on yourself, you can change them the way I did on my 98 Grand Prix. Don't mess with motor mounts and just try to reach back there using a mirror and skinny hands to pull wire off, untighten, replace, retighten, wire back on, and lose 2-3 tools in the engine compartment that never fell through to the ground. It was fun!! Make sure the car wheels are chocked. Be on level ground. Make sure the transmission is in Park. Remove the forward most bolts in each of the two motor mounts in front of the engine. Have someone help you push the car forward and the engine will move away from the firewall as you do this. once you get the car forwrd enough make sure you have the wheels chocked again so the car can't roll backwards. You will see an "eye" on the bottom of the motor mount that you can stick the bolt back trough once you get the engine rocked forward enough. Once you get the bolt in the eye you will have plenty of room to get down behind the engine. You can go further if you don't want to use the bolt through the eye. Just push the car forwrd even more and chock the wheels again. You will want to make sure that whatever you have securing the wheels will not come out. You wouldn't want it to happen and get you arm pinned in between the firewall and the engine. Just changed spark plugs on my 98 Grand Prix with 3.8L V-6. Was able to get to back spark plugs without moving engine, although you may skin some knuckles--my hands and arms are not skinny. The hardest part was removing the old wires--twist the boot first to break them free from the spark plug before trying to remove them. I also replaced the wires as a precaution and since I found some cracks at the wire-to-boot base. You will need a ratchet with a flex head and a short extension between the ratchet and spark plug socket to ease removal. Using dielectric grease on the boot before installing it on the new plugs should ease removal of the wire in the future if you need to.