Your meaning is unclear. Your system will already have pressure switch, -why would you need a pressure valve?- or are you unaware of the difference between a valve and a switch.
Your meaning is unclear. Your system will already have pressure switch, -why would you need a pressure valve?- or are you unaware of the difference between a valve and a switch. Please try again giving more detail.
Well, pump, storage tank, pressure switch, pressure gauge, Cycle Stop Valve, tank tee, drop pipe, wire, (with a submersible pump) gate valve and possibly water filtration. bob...
You have a leak somewhere. Good chance it is a leaking check valve, located either at the pump, and at the end of the pipe down the well.
No. Low pressure is a function of the well tank. Your pressure tank must have an adequate air pressure to maintain water pressure. A leaky check valve is not good news however, and will cause your pump to run excessively. This valve should be replaced ASAP.
Yes. The well pump turns on when the pressure in the accumulator tank falls to a low enough pressure to actuate the switch. If the pump check valve is leaking, the pressure is being bled back through the pump until the switch trips and the pump turns on. Other leaks in the system that allow the pressure to bleed down can also cause this.
You must turn off the pump, open a faucet and let the water run until all pressure is gone. The Air Control unscrews from the tank in a counter clockwise direction. You will need a good sized pipe wrench, it will be tight.
I do not know your situation but a good guess is that your well pump is always on and is not getting enough pressure to shut off the pressure switch. So I would shut off the power to your well pump and see if the buzzing stops and if it does then I would replace your well pump. If the buzzing don't stop with pump shut off then it could still be your well pump check valve slowly leaking threw but I think its your pump because its not pumping enough to shut off with or with out a bad check valve.
The wording of this question assumes the low pressure is not associated with a tank problem, or a control box problem. A few problems can cause low pressure from a submersible pump. The commonest that I've seen is a split in the pipe down the well, or a failed check valve immediately above the pump. ( all sub-pumps have a check valve to prevent 'run back' -these eventually corrode if cheaper types are used ) To fix this, it's necessary to pull up the pump and pipe and physically inspect the pipe, then cut out the split section or check valve and replace it with new parts. -The third, less common problem is the rotor vanes in the 'wet' side of the pump can simply become so eroded and worn that they will no longer pump at high pressure. The fourth, of course is motor failure and this can be determined with an ammeter at the surface. One other and very unusual problem is the sub-pump 'locking up' with silt. -I would rate this as less than 1 % of pump problems - this too can be detected from the surface with an ammeter.
When the pipe thaws, the pump will run almost constantly. Watch your pressure gauge on the tank and if it will not rise, or has problem building pressure above 30 psi, then yo almost certainly have a broken pipe.
You must have a leak somewhere. If you are on a well check the pressure tank, make sure there is adequate air pressure. ( check at nipple on top, should be in excess of 25 psi) Check the pipe to well. Listen carefully at the well while pump is running. If there is a leak in the down pipe or lower check valve you will hear water hissing. If none of these ideas work, post again and be more specific about your system.
If this is a jet pump you are using, then you have an air leak somewhere, or the impeller has warped through running while dry. First check towards the well and re-do any pipe joint with a little heat on the pipe and double clamp it to each fitting.. Now turn off the valve to house, make sure the pressure tank has about 27 psi of air pressure and start your pump again. Let the pump start with the valve between it and tank CLOSED until pressure gets over 27 then crack it open slowly It should now fill the tank. If pressure now doesn't get over 30, then you definitely have an air leak towards the well. If it still doesn't get over 18 then you need a new impeller.
A pressure tank for a pump & well potable water system only has one connection. To connect the pump and tank to your house's water inlet, simply connect the tank and pump together with pressure rated pipe, SCH 40 PVC works fine. In that line, cut in a TEE fitting, and from that T, connect the house inlet with a valve to shut the water off.
Oil field pushrod pumps ("donkey pumps") are reciprocating piston pumps. The long rod attached to the nodding head of the donkey pump extends down the well pipe. At the bottom of the pipe, an attached piston is moved up and down by the motion of the rod. The piston is fitted with a one-way valve, and the bottom of the pipe is also fitted with a one-way valve. As the piston descends, its valve (the "travelling valve") opens, allowing oil to pass through into the space above the piston. At the same time, the valve at the bottom of the well pipe (the "standing valve") closes, so that no oil is pushed out the bottom of the pipe. When the piston begins to rise, the travelling valve closes so that the oil now above it is lifted up the well pipe...while the standing valve now opens, allowing more oil from underground to be sucked into the bottom of the well pipe. The process repeats, with each upward stroke of the pump delivering around one to ten gallons of liquid...oil, possibly with some water mixed in.