Yes it usually works that way. But if you leave the situation that way the bad component will often cause the failure of the other component, and that can lead to battery failure as well. So replace the bad component as quickly as possible.
The voltage regulator is built into the alternator on all Contours, no matter what year or engine.
The voltage regulator is attachd to the alternator. It bolts on the alternator itself. If you ever replace the alternator, dont make the same mistake I did and not remove the voltage regulator because they are not sold as a whole unit..
In your PCM not the alternator Its built in the alternator be sure that you replace the alt with the same amp. alt it could be a 90 or 124 amp alternator. Replace the belt while you have the alternator off.
My 1982 Volvo 244GL had a voltage regulator in the back of the alternator so I assume your 1984 is the same
The voltage regulator on alternators of almost all modern vehicles (including all Saturn's), is INSIDE the alternator. When rebuilding an alternator it is relatively simple to replace the regulator at the same time you replace brushes, bearings and other components, but if you haven't done it before and don't have someone knowledgeable to guide you through the process, don't try to rebuild an alternator yourself.
The red battery symbol indicates that there is a problem with the charging system. It could be the alternator (faulty), voltage regulator (old), bad battery (old). or a blown fuse. If possible, after checking the fuses, you may have to recharge the battery overnight and then drive the vehicle to an automotive store (a close one) that can test the suspected equipment. I say this because it is near impossible to remove the alternator on a 2001 beetle (I had the same problem) and could not remove it myself to take in for testing, due to the tight space of its location and the other systems that were blocking access to the 2 bolts. If the alternator tests good, look at replacing the voltage regulator. The alternator can still be putting out the correct amount of charge and be good, but if the regulator goes out it may not show on the test. The voltage regulator is a small voltage sensor with brushes in it...should be around $75
The regulator is internal to the alternator! Just replace the alt. The alternator has an internal regulator that can be replaced by itself; however, when there is an issue with the alternator, it often involves diodes in alternator instead of or in addition to the regulator. better repair shops will often take an alternator to an automotive electrical repair shop for same-day rebuilds, with the value much higher than a cheap rebuild in a chain parts shop, and hundreds less than a dealer replacement. You want Bosch or your own Bosch rebuilt
it is inside the alternator. If the voltage regulator goes bad you have to change the whole alternatorAnswerIn your 1986 Honda prelude the voltage regulator should be separate from the Alternator. It should be a small black square with a five wire connector if i remember right. It should be mounted on the passenger side strut bubble inside the engine bay. Between the battery and the strut bubble and between the under hood fuse box and the engine. It is held on by two 10mm bolts. I know that this is where the voltage regulator is on my 1985 Honda prelude with the 1.8l carbed engine and since the 84-87 were mostly the same it should be the same on yours.
a generator is the same diameter all the way to the fan shroud and usually has a voltage regulator fastened to the fan shroud where a alternator is bigger where the pulley goes than where it goes into the fan shroud
Check out the battery cables. Make sure that they are connected good and not corroded or damaged. Also check the connections at the alternator. I had a 97 Expedition with a battery indicator, 12.4 volts at the battery with the engine off and 11.6v with the engine running. Replaced the alternator and then had 11.9 v with the engine running. Checked the alternator fuses on the firewall and found the 175a alternator output fuse blown. Replaced the fuse and voltage then read 14.3 with the engine running. Not sure if the fuse was blown before the alternator was replaced or not as I never thought a 175a fuse could blow without fireworks. 2 cents: Fuse..... Also check for defective replacement alternator, alternator rebuilt with incorrect regulator, damaged instrument panel cluster, or damaged or poorly connected wiring. Rocky_B Sounds like a dead battery cell. 1) Engine OFF - A servicable battery will show 12.5 volts at the terminals, anything less and you have dead or dying cells - Replace the battery. 2) Engine RUNNING - A good alternator should put out 14volts or more. 13-14volts=weak alternator, If voltage at the terminals is the same or lower after starting, your alternator might not be putting out anything or you have bad diode pairs in the voltage regulator. With most newer models the voltage regulator is attached to the alternator, so you replace both. If the voltage regulator is not attached to the alternator, you still want to replace both as voltage regulators tend to become mated to the old alternator's output over time. replacing just the alternator could cause the voltage regulator to fail.
Should really charge it then test it with a proper battery load tester. All you can do on your own is get a multimeter and check the voltage. Without it running and having sat for a 1/2 hour or so the voltage should be approx 12-12.5 volts. Start the engine and if the alternator is good the voltage at the battery terminals should be 13-14 volts. If without the engine running the battery voltage is 12 or less this may indicate that the battery is not holding a charge. Even then the voltage should go to between 13-14 volts when engine is started showing that the alternator is working to charge the battery. If when started the battery voltage stays around 12-12.5 volts or less I would suspect the alternator. Just to double check there is the main power out terminal on the back of the alternator. With the engine running check the voltage. If 13-14 volts is present at the alternator but not the battery the circuit in between the alternator and battery is suspect. If the voltage at the alternator is the same as at the battery (12-12.5 or less) the alternator or voltage regulator may be defective.
You hooked up the batteries in Series whch pumped allot of current thur the circuit..which probably fried the voltage regulator and probably blew the diodes on your alternator. you can have the alternator tested at an auto parts store.. but I'd replace the voltage regulator ( if its not part of the alternator ) along wth the alternator.. gpawlak1@rochester.rr.com