yes. But this is not a handyman level project. It is suggested you "Call a pro." What you're looking for is not another "main breaker" but a "sub-panel" that is fed by a "feeder" cable from the main panel. Have your electrician calculate the load you'll need in the out-building, then design and install a new feeder circuit and sub-panel for it.
One and half breaker system is an improvement on the double breaker system to effect saving in the number of circuit breakers. For every 2 circuits, 1 spare breaker is provided: Two feeders are fed from two buses via their associated circuit breakers and these two feeders are coupled by a third circuit breaker which is called tie breaker. During failure of any of the two feeder breakers, the power is fed via the breaker of the second feeder and main breaker (tie breaker).
It will if the 100 amp distribution board is a 20 circuit board. Ten spaces for the 240 volt breakers and seven spaces for the 120 volt breakers. There are two types of 100 amp breaker boards, one rated at 100 percent and the other at 80 percent. Depending on what rating on the panel board you are using will govern the maximum amount of current that can be legally drawn from the board. This breaker board rating will also govern the size of the main breaker installed and the wire size to feed the board, either 100 amp wire or 80 amp wire. The second consideration is what are the connected loads to the breakers, with the total of seventeen breakers, the board can only supply as much amperage as the main breaker will allow.
No, it would not be safe because 250v is too high for that breaker. <<>> In North America all household breakers are rated at 120/240 volts. A 250 volt 15 amp breaker would would be a two pole breaker and take up two slots in the distribution panel. This can be pulled out and replaced with two separate 15 amp breakers or one 15 amp breaker and a slot panel filler to cover the second slot.
NO! The circuit breaker will not trip at the exact same instant and the one that trips will be interrupting the full 24V which is 2x it's rating. The second breaker will never trip.
Usually the breaker's shunt trip coil is tied to a corresponding current transformer that is sized to the amperage that is allowed to be passed through the breaker. These types of breakers can also be connected into a distribution monitoring device. If the monitor detects a phase reversal or phase loss or voltage rise or drop the breakers shunt trip coil is remotely energized and isolates equipment down stream from the fault. Shunt trip coil circuits are also used as safety circuits where the situation calls for only one breaker to be energized at a time. If the second breaker is inadvertently closed, this would allow both breakers to be on, the second breaker's auxiliary contacts that are an internally part of that breaker will close the safety circuit and energize the shunt trip in the first breaker to causing it to open. So as you can see the two wires could be part of many wiring configurations depending on what situation calls for.
A circuit breaker can go bad from being tripped too many times. Many people don't understand that the tripping of a circuit breaker indicates a problem that needs to be corrected. They usually just reset the circuit breaker, leading to a very common second (or third, or fourth) trip. Circuit breakers tripping are for the prevention of fire due to excessive heat in the circuit. They're not supposed to be tripped repeatedly. This can wear the breaker out. Believe it or not, I've also seen circuit breakers fail to re-energize after being turned off. I speculate this was actually caused by the breaker never having been cycled (it was a main breaker), and the time elapsed since it was installed. Electrical equipment doesn't last forever. It's the same as anything else.
Another requirement for a main breaker is to keep the panel itself from burning up if the distribution bus (Stab bus) fails. It also will not let panel current exceed the limit for the supply wire between the electric- meter and its main breaker. The panel's internal- bus can fail, and a sub-breaker can fail. A loose connection can overheat, and turn bakelight and other insulation material into a block of carbon and then a carbon arc. The main breaker is not a general purpose ON-OFF switch. Overuse of the main breaker as an on-off switch under load will pit and damage the contacts over time, leading to its failure. The higher resistance in the contacts will heat it up, causing too-early tripping. .
It Means it provides or contains conductors and or Overcurrent Protection (breakers/Fuses) that have the ability of carrying 30 Amperes of Electricity. Amps/Amperes is how much electricity in Volume Flows through a given conductor or breaker every second
The main breaker switch for a home is usually located in a breaker box attached to a side wall outside the home. The breaker box is usually situated about 5-6 feet up the wall and is usually gray. The main breaker switch will be in that box. Open up the breaker box by pulling on the front bottom or side of the breaker box door. The main breaker switch is usually located near the top of all the breakers and is usually the largest. Also, it may be named, "Main". <<>> In Canada the main service disconnect is on the inside of the home, which is a more secure position so that the home can not be shut off by anyone from the outside of the home. There are two types of disconnects, one being a free standing switch that is fed from the outside meter base. These types of switches are not used much any more due to the cost factor. It usually contains fuses as an overload protection for the service. The second type of disconnect is contained within the branch circuit panel. This type of installation is known as a combination panel which housed both the main breaker and the branch circuit breakers. The top of the combination panel still obtains its feed from the outside meter base.
First unplug the TV. Some TVs may still draw current when off, but not enough to cause a breaker to trip. However you still want to make sure you don't fry your TV as you troubleshoot. If there is nothing plugged in to any outlet on the branch circuit and there are no light fixtures the problem is a bad breaker or in the wiring. The ideal is to have an electrician troubleshoot since you can kill yourself while messing with the breaker panel if you don't know what you are doing. Turn breaker off, make sure with a meter that the breaker is no longer hot and remove the wire by unscrewing the lug screw. Do the same for another breaker of the same rating. Hook the first wire removed to the second breaker. Turn on the second breaker. If it doesn't trip the problem is first breaker, and you need to replace it. If the second breaker trips it is the wiring. With the second wire and breaker restored to original connection, leave the first wire disconnected. Measure the resistance with a meter of the disconnected first wire to neutral which are where white wires are connected in panel. If you have everything unplugged there should be an open circuit. If not you need to start disconnecting wires in outlets and fixtures on the branch circuit and determine where the short is. Since breaker stays on for 30 seconds it is likely the breaker since a dead short would trip breaker immediately. The exception would be a short that is causing a current to flow that is very close to the rating of the breaker. If the breaker is good then I suspect you have something plugged in you don't know about.
The second triumvirs divided the empire as follows: Lepidus had control of Africa, Octavian had control of Italy and Antony had control of the east.The second triumvirs divided the empire as follows: Lepidus had control of Africa, Octavian had control of Italy and Antony had control of the east.The second triumvirs divided the empire as follows: Lepidus had control of Africa, Octavian had control of Italy and Antony had control of the east.The second triumvirs divided the empire as follows: Lepidus had control of Africa, Octavian had control of Italy and Antony had control of the east.The second triumvirs divided the empire as follows: Lepidus had control of Africa, Octavian had control of Italy and Antony had control of the east.The second triumvirs divided the empire as follows: Lepidus had control of Africa, Octavian had control of Italy and Antony had control of the east.The second triumvirs divided the empire as follows: Lepidus had control of Africa, Octavian had control of Italy and Antony had control of the east.The second triumvirs divided the empire as follows: Lepidus had control of Africa, Octavian had control of Italy and Antony had control of the east.The second triumvirs divided the empire as follows: Lepidus had control of Africa, Octavian had control of Italy and Antony had control of the east.
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When an electrical appliance becomes faulty or ground fault exists, and excessive amount of electric current flows and can produce a large amount of heat.If the excessive electric current is over a certain value the miniature circuit breaker will "TRIP" automatically to break the flow of current in order to protect the electrical appliance - and its service wiring - and to help prevent a home fire.A miniature circuit breaker is more convenient to use than a fuse because you only need to switch it "OFF" then back to "ON" to reset it, so you don't normally have to replace it like you would have to replace a fuse.A more technical explanationMost circuit breakers operate on two principles.First, current flow through the breaker heats a bi-metallic element. The more current, the more heat generated. at a certain temperature, the bi-metal element bends, tripping the breaker. This detection element catches overloads that are just slightly more than the breaker's rating. It takes anywhere from a few minutes to several tens of minutes to trip in this mode.The second detection method is magnetic. Current flow through the breaker flows through a small magnetic coil. At a certain threshold, the magnetic field is strong enough to move the trip arm, tripping the breaker. This detection method is almost instantaneous, and is usually set for a very large overload.Many breakers combine these two methods into one breaker. Others, typically used for large electric motor protection, will use one or the other.There are also specialized breakers designed to detect fault current to ground, called GFCI (ground fault circuit interruptor) and arc-flash breakers.
Control is stressed on the second syllable.
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No, absolutely not. The breaker is there to protect the wiring within that circuit from overheating and catching on fire. If you add a larger breaker and the wire stays the same the wire is no longer protected by the correct amp breaker. You could cause a fire. The breaker must match the size wire being used. Do this and you risk burning your home to the ground and possibly killing your family.
as an electrician i would first check the main breaker with a rated voltage tester for voltage i would first ckeck the meter side by placing one tester lead on one of incoming phases or wire and place second lead on the other phase or other wire. i should read 240, or 230, or 220 volts depending on where the taps are in the transformer. if not call the power company. if it does read any of them voltages i would then check the load side of the main breaker by putting my leads on one breaker and the one right below it generally every other breaker is a different phase again i should read 240 volts or close. if not the main breaker may be bad. if you know what breaker or circuit its on you could test it by placing one lead on the screw where the wire is and the other on the neutral or ground bar here you should read 120 volts or close if not breaker is bad. it maybe as easy as tightening the screw or screws so shut the breaker off first and then tighten.
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You have two options, one is a complete service change. The average house service these days is 200 amps 42 circuits. The second option is to install a sub panel off the existing service. Depending on how many circuits you need will govern the size the sub panel. Here is where it gets tricky. Two side by side single pole breakers or one two pole breaker will have to be removed from the original service panel and replaced with a new two pole breaker. The size of this breaker will be governed by the total load of the new sub panel. The wire from the new sub panel to the two pole breaker is also governed by the load of the sub panel. As an electrician I would recommend that you not do it yourself but get a qualified electrician to do it for you. He would (should) take a permit out for the job and get it inspected.
The breaker will trip at the amperage notated on the breaker. If it's 100A...it will trip at or around 100A. It does not matter if that breaker is physically tied to another 100A breaker. To understand this, imagine that you remove the mechanical tie from the two-pole breaker. Now you just have two 100A breakers. In actuality, you always had two 100A breakers. The mechanical tie does not change that. If you then powered two, separate 120 volt devices from the two breakers, each breaker would allow 100 amperes to pass to each of the devices before tripping. So why are they tied together? That is done when the two-pole breaker is to be used to power a 240 volt circuit. In AC current, electricity flows in both directions. In a 120 volt circuit, it flows "out" toward the device via the hot (generally the black wire) and "back" via the neutral (generally the white wire). Then the cycle reverses. It does this 60 times per second (60Hz). The amperage in the hot and neutral wires are the same (in the perfect world). Only the hot wire is connected to the breaker. In a 240 volt circuit, there is no neutral wire. You are using two "legs" of 120 volts each that are 180 degrees out of phase with each other. In other words, as leg 1 is flowing "out", leg 2 is flowing "back". Because they are out of phase, the potential difference is twice the voltage of each line or 240 volts. The current flows out and back at the same 60 Hz but this time via the two hot wires (generally black and red). Each of these hot wires are connected to the two terminals of the two-pole breaker. Due to mechanical tolerances, one breaker will most likely trip before the other. Therefore, if the rated current, (100 amps), is exceeded on either breaker, that breaker will trip and the other breaker will trip via the mechanical tie. This ensures that all power to the outlet is disconnected. If you removed the tie and only one breaker tripped, there would still be 120 volts connected to the outlet. In summary, each leg of a single, double (2 phase) or triple (3 phase) breaker is capable of allowing the amount of current denoted on the breaker. The connected circuit, regardless of voltage is protected from exceeding that amperage.
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All you have to do is install a 2 pole circuit breaker. You don't need a second 110v circuit, you can change a 110v circuit into a 220v circuit by removing the 110v circuit's neutral (white) from the neutral bus bar and connecting it to the second pole of the new 2 pole breaker. A single pole breaker feeds only one hot and returns on a neutral to the panel. a 2 pole breaker uses two hots, you would be using the old 'neutral' as the second hot from the breaker. Keep in mind this wil only be safe provided your breaker only changes from 1 pole to 2 pole and the actual breaker amperage doesn't change. So you could get a 15 amp or 20 amp 220v circuit in this manner. For anything larger than that, you would need to actually replace the wire with a larger size.
Circuit breakers, like fusible links (fuses), are rated according to the maximum amount of current (load) they can support before the circuit is interrupted. Many appliances have their own circuit breakers, typically rated at something less than 10 amps. In general, breakers are designed to open (turn off the circuit) when the current has been slightly exceeded for more than a few seconds, or greatly exceeded for less than a second. If you're attached to the circuit, you'd be electrocuted before the breaker blew, but at least the house wouldn't burn down. Home circuit breakers come in many sizes and configurations, ranging from 15 amps to 400 amps (for main disconnect), with intermediate sizes including 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 100, 150 and 200 amps, among others. Breakers are also classed by how many poles they have, whether both poles open simultaneously, what additional safety features there are (GFCI, arc-fault), who makes them, and what model panelboard they are to be installed into.
On new installations, load calculations are based on square footage of the building. The second calculation is based on the type of equipment that is to be connected. If you want to measure the load on an existing breaker box, find the current draw coming into the box times the highest voltage coming into the breaker box and multiply them together for the total wattage of the breaker box at that moment in time.