Yes, with a caveat. The 50A wire and plug is more than heavy enough for the dryer, so there is no problem there.
The possible problem is that the dryer is designed to be protected by a 30A breaker. In the event of failure in the dryer, the breaker may not trip as it is oversized. The best solution? Get a small breaker box from a home center and mount a 30A breaker in it. Mount it on the back of the dryer, run the 50A cord into the feed lugs of the box, and connect the dryer feed to the 30A breaker. This way you can plug the dryer into the 50A outlet like you want, and the dryer is protected with a 30A breaker as usual. You can get small breaker boxes or fused disconnects without too much cost. Just make sure the breaker box / disconnect panel is rated to 50A, as you want to feed it off a 50A circuit.
As long as the voltage requirement of the dryer matches the voltage of the outlet (which is presumably 240 volts), then yes. The amp rating of the cord and outlet is merely the maximun current (amps) allowed. You're well under that with 24 amps.
As long as the amperage is the same (usually 30 amps) change the plug on the welder.
if i have a breaker that has a 120/240v and my dryer has a 240v plug can i change the receptacle to a 240v
For convenience I install the receptacle just above the backboard of the dryer. This way if the dryer is to be moved out of its location it can be unplugged before the move is started. Sometimes the dryer is located in a confined space and it is hard to reach down to the floor level to unplug the dryer with out becoming an acrobat.
There is a couple of things going on here. First a 30 amp dryer plug will not fit into a 50 amp range plug. So rather than changing the the dryer cord over to a 50 amp range cord all you have to do is change the 50 amp breaker over to a 30 amp breaker in the distribution panel. The wire size is big enough to run the 30 amp dryer. Change the 50 amp range receptacle to a new 30 amp dryer receptacle and your installation will be within the electrical code guidelines.Circuit breakers and wire gauges are designed to protect the wiring, not the appliance (and not the user!). Amperage ratings are draws, not demands.More InformationThe answer to your question is yes. A 30-amp dryer will run quite nicely on a 50-amp circuit, provided it is properly wired and the voltage is correct. As has been pointed out, a standard 30-amp dryer pigtail won't plug into a standard 50-amp range receptacle. But there is no reason you can't replace the dryer's pigtail with a range pigtail, and that would be a heck of a lot easier and faster -- and cheaper! -- than replacing receptacle and breaker, as suggested above.What you must NEVER do is the opposite -- replace a range pigtail with a dryer pigtail and try to run the range on a 30-amp circuit. Most electric ranges can draw up to 50 amps, enough to overload the 30-amp circuitry usually provided for a clothes dryer.The key here is understanding how current draw works. A 50-amp appliance plugged into a 30-amp circuit -- say, an electric stove plugged into an outlet meant for a dryer -- can be a problem because the the stove will try to draw more current through the circuit than it's rated for, and protected against. A circuit breaker will trip, or a wire or connection will overheat.On the other hand, a 30-amp appliance plugged into a 50-amp circuit -- a clothes dryer plugged into a stove outlet, for example -- is just fine. The dryer will draw a mere 30 amps, no matter that the circuit can provide 50 amps.
It is usually recommended but not an absolute necessity.
Your 110 volt washer receptacle sounds like it is not a dedicated circuit directly fed from the distribution panel as it should be. It sounds like someone has tapped off of one side of the dryer receptacle hot and neutral terminals and run them to the receptacle for the washer. If true, this would have been done in the back side of the dryer receptacles which is located in the wall. You best get it checked out because it is likely the wire feeding the washer receptacle is a #14 rated at 15 amps and is undersized for a 30 amp breaker. A #10 wire has the capacity to be connected to a 30 amp breaker which you should find the dryer's connection to be.
not plugged in?
Hand blow dryer and any 120 volt cloths dryer.
The electric range needs a 40 amp plug to match with a 40 amp range receptacle. A dryer plug only has a rating of 30 amps and will not match the pin configuration of a range receptacle.
By code, you should always change your load device (dryer or range) to match the receptacle. Go to the local Home Depot and purchase a 3 wire replacement cord.
You bet it will.
Yes there is a serious danger. The breaker should be tripping under this condition and not allowing the frame of the dryer to become electrically energized. It means that the ground wire is missing from the dryer receptacle or the dryer cord is not grounded to the machine. Shut the breaker off to the dryer and remove the dryer receptacle. Look for a bare copper wire. It should be bonded to the box and then to the receptacles U shaped pin hole. If this end is fine check the dryer end where the cord goes into the back of the dryer to make sure the green ground wire is connected to the frame of the dryer. If you don't feel competent of doing this get some electrical help as this condition needs to be repaired before you use the dryer again. If you were shocked and recovered, you will be OK You should report it though because it could kill someone, for example, if they had a heart problem of some kind.
Hard wired means that there is no plug and receptacle in the circuit powering the dryer. What you will find is a metal jacketed cable that will come out of the wall or floor and go right into the dryer.
Yes, you can. It is perfectly safe and will work. For example, plugging a hair dryer with a gfi plug into a bathroom gfi receptacle work just fine.
A home circuit for a clothes dryer is 30 amps. This means that the breaker feeding the circuit must be rated at 30 amps. A # 10 copper conductor with an insulation factor of 90 degrees C is rated at 30 amps.So to answer the first part of your question about the breaker the answer is no, the breaker must be changed to a 30 amp breaker.The receptacle configuration of the 50 amp receptacle will not fit the four pin cord that comes complete with a new dryer. So the 50 amp receptacle can not be used.If the 50 amp circuit is in a older home then the feeder cable might not have enough conductors in it. New dryer cable requires three current carrying conductors with a ground conductor also in the cable set. If the existing cable has three current carrying conductors and a ground then it can be used. The cable could be a # 6 depending on what was plugged into the old 50 amp receptacle.Older set ups grounded the neutral conductor of the cable set to the frame of the dryer there by using the neutral return conductor as a ground conductor.The electrical code has changed and this is not allowed any more and states that the ground wire has to be a separate conductor and it connects the frame of the dryer directly to the ground bus on the electrical distribution panelboard. Hence the new four pin plug that comes with every new dryer and the need of a new four pin wall receptacle.
Yes, you are still using electricity.
Your hair dryer has a resistance of 220/12 = Ohms. (I'm sure you can do the math.)
From www.askmehelpdesk.com/appliances/replace-thermal-limiter-frigidaire-dryer-27223.html website you can get the information about replacement of thermal limiter on a Frigidaire dryer
The type of receptacle that you should install is a 14-30R. It is a three pole four wire grounding receptacle. The black wire goes to the Y terminal, the red wire goes to the X terminal, the white wire goes to the W terminal, the ground wire if there is one goes to the G terminal. This type of receptacle requires a four wire cable and plug to connect to your dryer. This configuration conforms to the new electrical code rules for new installations. The connections at the dryer will be, outside of the three terminals connect to the "hot" wires and the center terminal connects to the center terminal. The green wire on the dryer cord connects to the chassis of the dryer. In some cable kits a ground lug is supplied for this connection to the ground.
If you can pull out the lint trap, do so and make sure it is clean. Unplug the machine and pull it away from the wall. You should see a flexible vent that is attached both to the machine and to the wall. Disconnect it to be sure it is not plugged. If it is cracked, then you should replace it so that the air cleanly goes from the dryer and out of the house without leaving lint outside the dryer.
If the receptacle is a 3 wire receptacle then purchase a 3 wire pigtail and connect it to the dryer. When you connect it connect the neutral and ground together. <<>> The cord to the dryer should stay a four wire as that is now the new electrical code. What should be done is changing the three wire wall receptacle to a four wire installation. Turn the breaker off that controls the circuit for the dryer. Look in the back of the dryer receptacle box that is in the wall. The three wires coming in should have a bare ground wire in the cable set. It wasn't brought to the receptacle because there was no place for it on the old three wire receptacle. If you find the ground wire back there under a screw terminal, just add another short piece of wire under the screw and then connect the other end of the short wire to the new ground terminal on the new four position receptacle. The wire should be equal in size to the size of the wire that exists around the ground terminal now. If the house is so old that the range cable did not have a ground wire in it, the electrical code allows a separate green ground #10 wire to be taken from the breaker panel box to the existing range receptacle. This wire is to be bonded on each end. At the panel end to the ground buss and at the receptacle end around the ground screw at the back of the box unbroken and then to the new four position receptacle ground lug.
As long as the new dryer has the same plug configuration as the old one, just plug it into the same receptical that the old dryer was plugged into.
No, the plug on the dryer should be a 4 pin plug. Likewise, in the wall there should be a 4 pin 30 amp receptacle