You can BUT it will not warm up to its rated amount, therefore, it probably will not perform its function well <><><> For more information see the answers to the Related Questions shown below. <><><>
As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
You have to be careful here. A heater will be advertised as "X" watts, but that is only true if you connect it to the voltage source it is supposed to be connected to. If you plug it into a higher or lower voltage source than intended, it will produce a different number of watts.Electric heaters are just resistors. When you run electricity through them, they get hot. If you run more electricity through that resistor, it will produce more heat. If you run less electricity through it, it will produce less heat.As an example, you can find "1500W/120V" water heater elements at the hardware store. This means that if you plug it into a 120V source, it will produce 1500W of heat, and it will pull 1500W/120V = 12.5A of current.You can calculate the resistance of the heater by taking voltage times voltage divided by watts, so this "1500W/120V" heater is really just a resistor of this many Ohms:120V * 120V / 1500W = 9.6 OhmThat Ohm value is physical property of the device. It will not change. If you were to take this heater now and plug it into a 240V supply, you can calculate the amps with voltage divided by resistance:240V / 9.6 Ohm = 25 AmpsAnd, for watts, you can take voltage times voltage divided by ohms:240V * 240V / 9.6 Ohm = 6000WSorry for the long text, but it's crucial that you understand this.If your heater is 1500W and is INTENDED to be running on 240V, you have a 38.4 Ohm resistor. Running that resistor at the lower 208V will produce only 1126W of heat and will pull just 5.4 Amps of current.However, if your heater is 1500W and is indented to be running on 120V, then you have a 9.6 Ohm resistor. You will almost certainly start a fire if you plug it into a 208V supply, because you will be pulling close to 22 Amps and producing 4500W of heat.
No. The neon sign is fed by a step-up transformer. Primary side 120V, secondary side 7500V. If you applied 240 to the primary side you would get 15000 volts on the neon tube. A flash over and then nothing. If you can find a transformer from 120V to 240V or 240V to 120V then you are good to go. Connect 240V to 240V side and you will get 120V out the other, connect the 120V side to the neon sign and you should have light. Transformer should be at least 100va. This will give you an output of .83 amps at 120V
I don't know if you are trying to ask if you can run a 240V panel off a GFCI or run a 120 V sub panel off of a GFCI. Can you clarify please,,,Thanks
check your electric supply. maybe you dont have the full 240v to the unit. if only one "phase" (120v) the dryer wont tumble and washer wont run. only the dryers heater uses the full 240. if only the washer is out after checking power, check the lid switch if its bad washer will only do what it would with lid open. These are the most common problems
If you mean - can you run a 220v device on 120v where the 220v device needs that level of voltage to operate correctly then the answer is no. Even disregarding the frequency difference which some devices aren't affected by, the voltage difference is too great. Some devices these days, such as phone chargers, laptop power supply units etc will run happily on a voltage range from 100v up to 240v (read the label first) but they are the exception. The question is somewhat ambiguous and needs more information.
No.
You have to be careful here. A heater will be advertised as "X" watts, but that is only true if you connect it to the voltage source it is supposed to be connected to. If you plug it into a higher or lower voltage source than intended, it will produce a different number of watts.Electric heaters are just resistors. When you run electricity through them, they get hot. If you run more electricity through that resistor, it will produce more heat. If you run less electricity through it, it will produce less heat.As an example, you can find "1500W/120V" water heater elements at the hardware store. This means that if you plug it into a 120V source, it will produce 1500W of heat, and it will pull 1500W/120V = 12.5A of current.You can calculate the resistance of the heater by taking voltage times voltage divided by watts, so this "1500W/120V" heater is really just a resistor of this many Ohms:120V * 120V / 1500W = 9.6 OhmThat Ohm value is physical property of the device. It will not change. If you were to take this heater now and plug it into a 240V supply, you can calculate the amps with voltage divided by resistance:240V / 9.6 Ohm = 25 AmpsAnd, for watts, you can take voltage times voltage divided by ohms:240V * 240V / 9.6 Ohm = 6000WSorry for the long text, but it's crucial that you understand this.If your heater is 1500W and is INTENDED to be running on 240V, you have a 38.4 Ohm resistor. Running that resistor at the lower 208V will produce only 1126W of heat and will pull just 5.4 Amps of current.However, if your heater is 1500W and is indented to be running on 120V, then you have a 9.6 Ohm resistor. You will almost certainly start a fire if you plug it into a 208V supply, because you will be pulling close to 22 Amps and producing 4500W of heat.
No. The neon sign is fed by a step-up transformer. Primary side 120V, secondary side 7500V. If you applied 240 to the primary side you would get 15000 volts on the neon tube. A flash over and then nothing. If you can find a transformer from 120V to 240V or 240V to 120V then you are good to go. Connect 240V to 240V side and you will get 120V out the other, connect the 120V side to the neon sign and you should have light. Transformer should be at least 100va. This will give you an output of .83 amps at 120V
More than likely, your 240V system has branches that supply a standard household 120V to things like lighting outlets. Most light bulbs in the US run on 120V so this is probably a convenience feature. Otherwise you would have to go to a specialty store and buy 240V bulbs.
No.It'll overload and fail just about immediately.It's possible - but not recommended - to run two 110 v heaters in series from a 220v circuit.
I don't know if you are trying to ask if you can run a 240V panel off a GFCI or run a 120 V sub panel off of a GFCI. Can you clarify please,,,Thanks
It is important that you should read see the answer to the Related Question shown below: "Can you plug a US 240v 60Hz appliance into a European 230v 50Hz outlet?".No, sorry. Most US dryers have a 240V heater and a 120V timer and motor. While the heater will work fine, you don't have the 120V supply for the timer and motor. Also the timer will run slow on 50hz if it is not solid state (Most dryers still use motorized timers), as well as the drum turning slow, and the airflow being decreased.If you have a sufficiently large voltage converter you can make a neutral for it, but you have no way to know how much current the neutral pulls without testing or cracking it open.You may want to just sell it and buy an Indian dryer.
It would not be practical because the heater would likely require disassembly. If the heating elements are designed to operate on 120V and are wired in parallel, they could be instead wired in series to provide the necessary resistance. On the other hand, in the US, one could run a 240 line from the circuit panel to the heater and use a 240V breaker. The last option might be to install a step up transformer. In order to do this, determine the maximum current the heater will need then insure the breaker to be used is twice that capacity, and if it is, install the step up transformer and use the heater. The reason for twice the current is that when voltage doubles (120V to 240V) the current halves (40A to 20A).
NO. Don't try it. Some are designed to work on either, some aren't. If it won't work on 120v, it won't work on 240v.
check your electric supply. maybe you dont have the full 240v to the unit. if only one "phase" (120v) the dryer wont tumble and washer wont run. only the dryers heater uses the full 240. if only the washer is out after checking power, check the lid switch if its bad washer will only do what it would with lid open. These are the most common problems
You can't. I'm not sure exactly what you're trying to do, but the way it is written is not possible. It seems you might want to use half of a duplex receptacle for 120 and half for 240. This would not be code compliant, nor would it make sense. A plug designed for 240v will not even fit into a 120v receptacle. You need a 240 volt receptacle rated for the amperage you will need. Also, an existing 120v receptacle has nothing to do with your 240v receptacle. For a 240 volt receptacle, you'll need to run 2 new 120v lines (in the same cable). The existing 120v circuit cannot be used here, even if you added another 120v circuit, because when a load uses 240v, both 120v circuits supplying the 240v must be controlled by a common disconnect (a 2 pole breaker designed for 240v circuit). My advice would be to show an electrician what you want done. I'm sure they can tell you how to make that happen.
If you mean - can you run a 220v device on 120v where the 220v device needs that level of voltage to operate correctly then the answer is no. Even disregarding the frequency difference which some devices aren't affected by, the voltage difference is too great. Some devices these days, such as phone chargers, laptop power supply units etc will run happily on a voltage range from 100v up to 240v (read the label first) but they are the exception. The question is somewhat ambiguous and needs more information.