YES!!!!!!! It has to be diluted with water or it will eat away at the surface. I know from personal experience.
This is very strong and corrosive. and should never be used full strength unless you are trained in using.
Muriatic acid is an impure form of hydrochloric acid. It is extremely corrosive and it is advised that you use a face shield, and use in a ventilated area only. The fumes are very corrosive and can cause irreparable lung damage. Improper use can release chlorine gas, a gas used in WW I by the Germans. If the purpose is to clean brick, or etch concrete it can be diluted, and should be. The recommended concentration to clean brick is at least 10 parts water to 1 part acid. If the acid releases a very strong fume on opening use 15 to 20 parts water.
It also reacts with various metals to form an explosive mixture with air.
NO You would need an awful lot of acid to do any harm there.
You can't! Muriatic acid (~32% HCL) will not add any free chlorine to the pool and will not function as a oxidizer (Shock).
Using muriatic acid to clean masonry is an approved technique, but caution must be exercised. The muriatic acid , even as runoff, is harmful to delicate tissues and any plants in the area. If there is runoff, use lime to neutralize the acid.
Yes muriatic acid does not have any affect on glass and once the glass has been rinsed out with water it is suitable to drink from again.
Concrete is very hard. To do any good in etching it you need something very strong. Muriatic Acid is the only thing that I have found that works. How strong you mix it depends on the concrete. Some concrete that was poured with a lot of water in the mix will need less Acid. Concrete that is smooth and hard will take more. Muriatic Acid is caustic. Read the direction. Use rubber gloves; safety glasses; and a respirator. For a large project, such as a driveway or Patio. Use a plastic garbage can. Fill with 10 gallons of water. Carefully pour one gallon of Muriatic Acid into the water and mix with a wooden paddle. Take a plastic watering can and fill it with the solution. Wet your concrete with a water hose, then carefully pour the Acid solution onto the concrete. It will bubble and foam. This is the acid etching the concrete. Let it set for about 15 min. Scrub with a stiff push broom, and then rinse with a water hose. The acid will kill plants and grass. Steve Schillinger firstname.lastname@example.org = Safety Note = Make sure you put the water in the garbage can first--adding water to acid is a sure way to get splashed with concentrated acid.
Add muriatic or hydrochloric acid.
All the "big box" stores usually have a pool supply section (ie: Wal-mart, Lowe's, Home Depot etc. Any pool store should have muriatic acid.
If you get Muriatic acid directly onto the skin or any other part of the body run lots of water over itimmediately. especially If the eyes are involved get medical aid as soon as possible
Don't even THINK about trying to clean a coin with muriatic acid. It will damage the surface and any possible numismatic value will be lost.You'll have a very shiny coin that is only worth its face value.
There are some commercial stain removers like "Gunk"™ that may or may not remove embedded fruit stains. For that, you may have to use Muriatic Acid. This is mean stuff ... try a dilution of 4 to 1 at first (four parts water, one part muriatic acid). Very important when mixing these two solutions: always pour acid into water - never pour water into acid. Muriatic acid cleans by etching the concrete, so you will want a method of rinsing the area off just as soon as the stain dissappears. If the 4 to 1 mix doesn't solve it, try 2 to 1, or as a last result, full strength from the bottle. Please be very careful ... the fumes from Muriatic Acid can be deadly.As always, with any chemical, protect yourself (eyes, hands, face, etc) ... acid, if it gets onto your clothing or skin will immediately burn and you will require serious medical attention immediately.
Muriatic acid or hydrochloric acid (HCl) will not harm copper pipes. I am a licensed Heating& cooling technician and I use Muriatic acid all the time to clean out hot water tankless coils and boiler hot water coils and I have seen it used to clean out hot water copper piping in houses to remove scale and mineral deposits. I use a 1/6 Submersible pump that i purchased at Home Depot. It's not a chemical pump and I have used this pump over 4 years and i have ran Muriatic acid through it at least 60 times and the pump still works great. I even took the pump apart to see if any damage was happening to it and it looked just like new. just wear long rubber gloves and full goggles for your eyes. safety glasses will not protect your eyes. the acid can splash up under the safety glasses. If you get any on your skin just rinse it off with cold water. Muriatic acid or HCl cleans up really well with water.
Water doesn't really neutralize any acid, merely alters its concentration. However if you think about it if you added a massive amount of water you could reduce the solution's ph to 7, which is effectively neutralized. For a gallon of muriatic acid it would require a few dozen olympic sized swimming pools worth of water to effect the dilution. But really until you give us the molarity of the muriatic acid we can't give you a definite answer for any neutralization method.
Never put Muriatic into a Well; for any reason. If you want to disinfect your Well; use Chlorine or regular laundry unscented Bleach.
PVC pipe is not affected by acid. Why would you pour acid down your drain in the first place? It will not cure any problem you have.
Where to Get Muriatic AcidMost pool stores carry this kind of liquid acid. If not they all carry "Dry Acid" of "Sodium Bisulfate". Each pound of Sodium Bisulfate is the same as using 10 ounces of Muriatic Acid in pool water. Here are more opinions and answers from other FAQ Farmers:You can usually find Muriatic acid at Home Depot next to all the pool supplies.I buy Muratic Acid at Albertson's Grocery store believe it or not.I heard from pool dealer that this product is very toxic try Lo'n Slo from Bioguard instead.Loon in the paint section of hardware and lumber stores. It is not toxic to the pool.Here's the cheapest way: go to a pool store and buy pH decrease. 10 parts water to 1 part decrease.I get my acid from a dealer dealing with cleansers such as bleach, dishsoap etc. Muriatic acid is the best and easiest way to reduce pH levels, but it has many other uses to.You can buy muriatic acid in the Outside Garden section near the pool supplies at any of the Home Depot stores.
That depends on what you're trying to clean off. Technically, muratic acid removes some of the chemicals that make up the surface of the concete. If the stain is deep you'll need to use a stronger concentration of the muratic acid. If it's just a weak surface stain, you can dilute the acid. The muratic acid will destroy any clothing, especially cotton, that it touches. Even a drop will disolve the cotton where it touches. Concentrated muratic acid that gets in your eyes can cause blindness, so make sure you wear something to protect your eyes. It burns if you get the acid on your skin, so wear gloves and have plenty of water nearby. Beyond that, just put water in a plastic pail then add muratic acid to get to the concentration that you want. I use an automotive wheel cleaning brush to clean with muratic acid, I also wear rubber gloves when I'm using the stronger concentrations. Brush it on, work it a little then rinse it off with water. It takes a small amount of concrete off the surface and changes the appearance of the concrete, but it also removes the stain.For cleaning concrete, I would recommend using a citrus degreaser instead of muriatic acid. It is much more environmentally friendly, and you don't have to be a chemist to use it. You can purchase it at any professional construction material supply store. Available in 1 gallon and 5 gallon. It also smells a lot better than muriatic acid!!
To remove galvanize, practically any acid can be used. Using muriatic acid is a good way to remove galvanize. It does not matter whether it is electroplated, hot dip or galvanneal.
To test a concrete floor for sufficient dryness before painting you should tape a two foot by two foot square of (clear) plastic film to the floor, wait 48 hours and see if the concrete is darker under the plastic or if any condensation has occurred on the underside of the plastic. If so then the floor is not dry enough. If no condensation or darkness, paint.
The best approach here is to consider neutralizing the acid. a solution of baking soda and water will do the trick. Battery acid is strong and acidic. Any damage occurred to the concrete will be permanent. The effects you see from the acid coming in contact with the concrete will vary based on how much acid there was and how long it was left to etch into the surface. Hydrochloric and muriatic acids will eat the concrete paste from the surface and leave anything from small mica to larger sand and gravel aggregate finishes. Neutralize it immediately when not intended! The orange you see is called acid "burn" and any concrete "rust" removers you find on the market will not be effective at removing acid burn. Rust removers are good for rust but may damage, reactive or spread acid burn making it even worse. Bleach will only remove a small portion of the stain and the scrub brush on concrete will definitely cause permanent damage to the concrete. Once concrete is "spot treated" with improper tools, chemicals or techniques it can be permanently damaged. Battery acid stains are not rust and are a chemical reaction within the concrete. If you try Hydrochloric Acid, Hydrochloric will only remove a maximum of 60% of the stain. It is very dangerous and will permanently damage your concrete. The only reason HCL Acid works is because it dissolves the cement past and takes a small amount of stain with it. Battery Acid Stains can travel up to 2" deep into the concrete. There is only one solution that will work- it is a new product called F9 BARC (Battery Acid Restoration Cleaner) made by Front 9 Restoration, Inc.
You shouldn't use any acid when cleaning your toilet. It can kill the bacteria that the system needs to break down waste.
Yes, it can be used. Any acid based product will help remove scale. HOWEVER, it is extreemly dangerous to get on unprotected skin, clothes, metal, ... so using it where it will contact anything other than glass, plastic, fibreglass, ... or any other material that will not react with it IS NOT RECCOMENDED. (Muriatic acid is preferable to sulfuric based compounds as sulfur based acids combine with many other materials to form worse stains than the products will remove. ) Any acid based product also has the challenge of coming up with an applicator that will both apply it only on the areas desired, and that will not get destroyed by the very product you are applying it with. The greater the power the greater the chance for dangerous reactions, problems, ... in every area. Muriatic acid (Hydrocloric acid) is probably left to professionals with both knowledge and experience using it in the application desired.
The answer: YES. Muriatic acid is the best solution for cleaning scum off of fiberglass hulls. Forget expensive hull cleaner or any other "marine" product that claims to remove. Muriatic acid removes all scum/discoloration without any effect to the gel coat for about $6/gallon. Get a garden/lawn sprayer, an open area (for venalation), long pants/shirt that you don't care about, rubber gloves & goggles. The Muriatic acid will do the work, only light scrubbing may be necessary as the chemical dissolves the scum itself. Once the acid has sat for 5-10 mins, spray with water and then wash with a mild soap. In the end, you will have a brand new looking hull. Remember to wax after to protect in the future.One word of caution is that the Muriatic acid fumes are very powerful. Be sure to be in a well venalated area and wear a painters venalator mask if necessary.Enjoy your brand new looking hull!
I am an old style mechanic. Heater cores are made of copper or aluminun & Plastic. Muriatic acid will eat any heater core up and cause leaks. Cut it out of the loop and connect the lines together. Get it replaced, a major and expensive job. Sorry about that and good luck.
YES. HCL (muriatic acid ) and sodium bicarbonate are used to achieve the proper pH 7.2-7.8. Any number below 7 is acidic any number above 7 is alkaline.
Bob is awesome A Real Answer::: Muriatic acid is around 30% + Hydrochloric Acid and is very harmful to any Portland Cement based material, be it concrete [poured, pumped or pneumatically applied], as well as grout mixes! This type acid attacks the lime in the mix which is the binder that holds a concrete together. Besides disintegrating a concrete it reduces the pH and sets you up for more problems in the long term. We do not recommend Muriatic At All! Several cleaners on the market profess to be a cleaner or remover. I use a buffered phosphoric product! First, we mechanically abrade the surface, removing as much of the salts as possible. Then we apply our remover and observe an aggressive bubble condition for 10 or so minutes. Rinse and reapply until no more bubbling is seen. This may require several applications to insure complete removal, however we have not compromised the concrete and created any conditions that will exacerbate a future problem. Rinse again and test for surface pH and provide a bath if necessary to bring the surface back to a 6-7 pH range. Once the efflorescence has been removed, apply a penetrating sealer, such as StableCrete to the surfaces to waterproof the concrete. A penetrating sealer migrates into the Gel-Pore/Capillary of a concrete and forms a solid inside the matrix. This stops contaminates and moisture from entering and also does not allow internal chemistry to migrate out of a concrete to react with an atmosphere! Efflorescence does not reappear and by having a reduced moisture content interior, freeze thaw damages are no longer a concern!