Wires bring the voltage source to the junction box of the receptacle. At this point they are terminated under the screws of the receptacle. With the receptacle screwed to the junction box and the cover plate installed the outlet is ready to be used. The last thing to do is turn the breaker back on to energize the receptacle.
If the 2 hot wires are connected to either side of a receptacle, you have a 240v receptacle (assuming it's in the US). This is typically done for window air conditioners. But code requires that the receptacle have a different configuration than other receptacles in the building so you don't run the risk of plugging in a 120v device into a 240v receptacle.
Cut the wires on the old fixture and splice wires from new receptacle
no you have to improperly install it....... :P Shut off the power to the receptacle. Now remove the three black wires from one side of the old receptacle and twist them all together with your pliers. Make a short pigtail 6 inches long, same colour and wire size. Now twist this pigtail into the other three wires. Hold all four wires together with the appropriate size wire nut. Do the same with the white wires. Push all the wires into the back of the receptacle box. Connect the two pigtail wires to the new receptacle black wire to the brass coloured screw, white wire to the silver coloured screw. Screw the new receptacle back into the box, install cover plate, turn the power back on. Done deal.
there should be 5 wires, hot and switched hot for the switch and hot, neutral and ground for the gfci receptacle.
For electrical appliances to work the wires must be correctly connected and plugged in to the receptacle.
The very first outlet in the circuit has a break, probably where the wires enter the receptacle.
An old 2 hole receptacle can be changed to a 3 hole receptacle that will accept a 3 prong plug, provided a ground wire is available at the box and connected to the ground (green) lug on the new receptacle. A 2 hole receptacle has a hot and neutral wire, while a 3 hole receptacle will require a ground wire connection -- in addition to the hot and neutral wires.
While you can physically do this it violates the Electrical Code. 110 Volt and 220 Volt receptacles are required by the Electrical Code to be on separate breakers for safety reasons, this would put them on the same 220 Volt breaker.
A 220 volt receptacle is a receptacle which has 2 wires carrying 110 volts...it has two "hot" wires at 110 and a neutral or common leg which has no voltage. A 110 volt receptacle is a receptacle which has 1 wire which carries 110 volts and a common wire. The wiring in the USA is almost standardized now to where the two "hot" (carrying 110 volts) wires are colored black and red, and the common or neutral is white. To change a receptacle to 110 volts..you remove the red or black wire from the old receptacle and wire nut it off...leaving the other red or black to attach to the new receptacle (right side of receptacle usually, looking at it from the grounding hole on the receptacle ON THE BOTTOM). You then connect the white wire to the left side of the receptacle. This will provide only 110 volts now. If the wires are not black, red, and white..they may be black, black, and white. In most cases, the white wire is always the neutral or common wire. When in doubt, buy a voltmeter and check each wire to the metal box in the wall...the wires carrying the 110 volts will usually read 110 on the voltmeter (or 115, 118..etc). Good luck!
Assuming the wires are the correct gauge for application and breaker you use black and white wires as hot. Put red electrical tape on each end of white wire and connect red and black to the breaker output and bare wire to ground lug in panel. At receptacle connect black and red to hot contacts and bare wire to ground lug.
The 50 amp receptical will not be a three prong receptacle it will be a 3-pole 4-wire grounding receptacle. It will be a 125/250 volt rating NEMA number 14–50R. The red and black wires connect to the X and Y terminals, the white wire to the W terminal and the ground wire to the G terminal.
The Flux Capacitor