You can't! Your bus cord actually feeds some of the bus's 120V circuits using the black and the white, and the other circuits using the red and the white, so you definitely need black, red and white. You also need the green ground wire. It's required by law, but also handy to have hooked up so you don't kill anyone by electrocution. Its there for safety. The dryer doesn't use a neutral (white), this is why it has a 3 prong outlet. You cannot safely or legally feed the bus from this outlet. Don't try it! IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS. If you do this work yourself, always turn off the power at the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work AND always use a meter or voltage indicator
to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
No it is not
The "hot" wire and the neutral wire both carry current (the same amount, in fact) when a load is connected to complete the circuit. The ground wire never carries current except when a fault-to-ground situation occurs. Yes, neutral and ground wires should both be at ground potential, but NO they should not be connected at the outlet.
On a 240 volt outlet, such as a dryer outlet: G is Ground, W is Neutral, X and Y are the two Hot legs.
Not correctly , It will show on a tester that it is grounded but you should run a separate ground for it to be properly grounded
If the wiring system into which you are installing an outlet has no ground available, use an ungrounded outlet. In an ungrounded system, an outlet with a ground contact would allow the outlet user to mistakenly, and perhaps dangerously, assume that a ground was present. A suitable ground may be available as a ground wire accompanying the hot and neutral wires in the cable, or a ground may be available via conductive conduit and a metal outlet box. In any case, use a tester to confirm the integrity of the assumed ground. A voltage test from the hot wire to the ground should show the same voltage as between hot and neutral (the black and white wires respectively). If you are replacing an ungrounded outlet, you need not assume there is no ground present. You may find, in the box, ground wires that were not connected to the outlet. You may come across grounded outlets that have no ground wire attached because they rely on grounding via the mounting screws through the outlet ears to the metal box. This is a less reliable grounding method. It is better to buy a ground-wire "pigtail," fasten the wire directly to a hole in the metal box with the supplied screw, and attach the other end of the ground wire to the outlet via the outlet's ground screw.
the bare copper is always a ground
No it is not
Inside an outlet there are conductors: hot, neutral, and sometimes ground. The rest of the inside of an outlet is insulator, to keep these conductors from shorting.
Black & Red are hot, and White is neutral. If it has no place to connect neutral connect neutral to ground.
If there is a GFCI in the circuit it will stop working correctly. They compare ground current to neutral current to detect a fault. It makes ground current equal to neutral current which is a fault condition.
The "hot" wire and the neutral wire both carry current (the same amount, in fact) when a load is connected to complete the circuit. The ground wire never carries current except when a fault-to-ground situation occurs. Yes, neutral and ground wires should both be at ground potential, but NO they should not be connected at the outlet.
There is an open circuit on neutral. You should have power between hot and neutral, as well as between hot and ground. Note well, however, that you should not pull any power between hot and ground, because ground is not intended to be a current carrying conductor - it is only there as a protective earth ground in the case of fault. You can not easily tell, at the outlet, if neutral and ground is reversed - you need to pull a load and then double check with a clamp on ammeter at the distribution panel.
The fan is probably a 115 VAC single phase fan and the outlet is probably a 230 VAC "two phase" outlet. The fan would then have the following wires: hot (black), neutral (white), and ground (green). The outlet would then have the following wires: hot #1 (black), hot #2 (red), neutral (white), and ground (green). Pick either of the two hot wires on the outlet and connect the hot wire of the fan to that (ignore the other hot wire on the outlet) and connect the neutral to neutral and ground to ground. If the wire colors are not as I described above you may have something else (e.g. 3-phase) and that would be wired differently, but those systems are usually used only in industrial settings not the home.
Assuming the wiring to the outlet has 2 loads and one neutral, isolate one load from the outlet and use the neutral as the common. be sure to ground from the receptacle to your conduit or ground lead. You should also replace the corresponding breaker with a 120 volt single breaker.
Looking at a duplex receptacle the right smaller slot is hot, the left larger slot is neutral and the u ground is ground.
On a 240 volt outlet, such as a dryer outlet: G is Ground, W is Neutral, X and Y are the two Hot legs.
Not correctly , It will show on a tester that it is grounded but you should run a separate ground for it to be properly grounded