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Q: How can projec management applied to campany project?
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How do you remove the dash on a 1996 Volvo 960?

Volvo 960: How do you remove the heater core from a 1996 Volvo Remove battery cable Remove the tilt wheel handle, use a 3 mm allen wrench from below, small access hole in the lower column cover Next the column top cover from below 4 screws, one at each corner. Then the bottom cover: 2 screws in the middle. Remove air bag & steering wheel: Turn the wheel 90º in each direction to access the T30 torx bit screw from behind the wheel, you need a bit that can reach at least 2". Unplug the bag and place the bag in a non static area with the bag face pointing up, not face down. Remove the center bolt holding the wheel, but do not pull the wheel off the shaft, IINM it's 18mm. Center the wheel, take the phillips head screw out of it's storage in the wheel and place in the hole in the clock spring, this will lock the clock spring in place, do not turn the steering wheel at this point. Mark the position of the wheel hub to the column shaft, just scratch with a screw driver. Pull the wheel off. Remove the turn signal and wiper control stalks, unplug the electrical connectors first, then remove the two screws holding each control. You may find it difficult to unplug the cruise control cable, if so just leave it for now, let the control hang down, otherwise follow the cable back to the dash, there is a tab that points up, behind which is the connector (usually), pry/pull this tab down and unplug the cable. Also unplug the ignition switch. Remove the clock spring, follow the orange cable back to the dash, there is a tab that points up, behind which is the connector, pry/pull this tab down and unplug the cable. Then remove the three screws holding the clock spring on the column. Pop out the switch+trim panels to the left and right of the column, unplug the switches an pull out the back lights. Leave the headlight switch in place. No need to mark the connectors as they will only fit into the correct switch or will be color coordinated to the switch connector. Remove the center console: two 8mm bolts at the front, two screws in the bottom of the storage bin, two screws below the pop out panel in at the base of the parking brake lever opening. Note: you want to slide the entire console back before attempting to free the trim panel from around the shift lever and from the console. You need to also remove the rear ash tray panel and unhook the lamps on that panel, once the hard ware holding the console is out this becomes very easy, just lift up the console and reach under to release the tabs that hold the panel at the bottom, this you can see better if you remove the ash tray first. Also be very careful about the light spreader for the heated seats switches as this is very easy to break where the lamp is installed. The heated seat switch connectors are color coordinated. Remove the seats. (note once ready to remove, place heavy blanket over the door panel to protect and be careful not to scratch the dash. The seats exit the car bottom first, if the steering wheel is still in place, the back of the driver's seat remains below the level of the wheel. As you remove the seat and pivot it out the door on it's back, be very careful not to ram the seat rails into the door or dash, two people will make this easier, one person remains inside the car. Working under the dash, remove the under dash covers above the driver's footwell and passenger footwell. Remove the driver's metal knee bolster support: 2 10mm nuts, two bolts. Remove the kick panel covers. Remove the glove box: two screws accessed with the door open, one on each side behind little square covers that you pop out. Two screws from below at each end of the box. Remove A pillar covers (APC=A pillar cover). First you have to take loose the long strip panel between the headliner and the door opening just at the front next to the APC: remove the handle above the passenger door (center strip of handle pries out to access the 4 screws), or the two plastic covers above the driver's door (they pop off when pried from above or below to access the single screw per cover). Then you can pull this strip away from the roof and access and remove the singe screw behind that holds the A pillar cover (note it kinda hooks into the APC, a peg sticks into a hole in the plastic just below where the screw goes). Then starting at the end of the APC nearest the roof, you pry/pull the APC away from the pillar to free to clips, then pull the APC up in the direction of the pillar to free it from the bottom clip. Next, pop the defroster panel/cover loose, just put a screwdriver down between the between dash and panel and pry up gently. (upon reassembly: make sure you put this back in before reinstalling the APCs) Remove the radio support (black plastic that the radio sits in): remove ash tray and the radio first, then two screws at the top and bottom, unplug the two wires and one lamp for the cigarette lighter, and pop out the lamp for the ash tray. Take the relay panel loose: one thumb screw towards the front of the panel, this panel complete will stay with the dash. Unplug the two ground wires to the ground point below the fuse panel, unbolt the one ground wire bolted to the relay panel support bracket. Junction box: located just above the hood release, pop the cover off, unbolt from dash, unplug the two largest wires from each end of the box. Electrical connectors: I found all connectors to be unique, in other words they were all either physically designed so they could only be plugged into the correct receiver or they were color coordinated, thus I found no need to mark any of them. →Left side: unplug the two large connectors as the left corner of the dash, also the two wire sun roof connector and yellow connector for the brake light switch. If you are still using the factory amp, you need to unplug that too. See: http://www.threefattigers.com/Projec.../760-3376b.jpg →Right side: one large connector tucked above the fan motor. On some cars you might find a wire or so that runs through here that will require one or more tie straps to be cut above the glove box area, I didn't find such on my '90. →Center: unplug the 8 or more connectors that come up into the relay panel area. →HVAC: several connectors all over the HVAC air box. Final hardware: two bolts: one at each end of the dash near the kick panels, two screws just above the steering column. Two screws at the base of the dash center console. Now all that holds the dash in are the 5 tabs on the dash, held by 5 clips at the base of the windshield, find a object you can insert into the center hold of the clip to release the tab, I used an allen wrench. Do this one at a time will pulling slightly on the dash to release. (note these clips are often found broken, be prepared to replace them, rotate to release the clips from the body) At this point the dash is free to remove, two people to guide it out of the car is best but not required. I would store it upside down on the floor, preferably on a blanket or carpet. Unbolt the relay panel support bracket from the tunnel. At this point you need to work the rear floor outlet pipes out of the way, if the seats are out, there is a single bolt under the carpet that you remove and this makes it much easier. Remove the front foot well outlet, this tray like item just slides straight back and out. Remove the center defroster duct, pull the left hose off, two 8mm bolts then lay it to the right of the air box. The core is then accessed by removing the cover with the three large vacuum solenoids, just a series of 8mm screws around the perimeter. In the engine compartment there is a metal plate on the fire wall where the heater core pipes stick through, it is best to remove this first, just one 10mm nut.