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Repairing a Cassette PlayerFor about $100 installed, you can replace that antiquated piece of junk for a CD player. Or spend a little more and get an MP3 player also. Why spend the money on a cassette player when you can replace all your old tapes with CD's for the same price. Chances are, anything you have on tape is probably in the $5 CD bin by now.

From another FAQ Farmer:

So far, every GM-Delco-cassette radio that passed thru my ownership had/has this problem : so far , my solution to avoiding paying HIGHWAY ROBBERY repair costs ( which are actually replacement activities ) and to use either the junk yard OR E-Bay sources of replacement SUB-CHASSIS's !

SO far I've had about 50-50 results at about $20 rates of exchange !

SO far I've accumulated several NON-FUNCTIONING units ; and I've gotten quite GOOD at doing AUTOPSIES on these units !

So far I've had ZERO SUCCESS at actually returning a "CLICKING" , or "TAPE-EATING" monster to normal behavior !

What I HAVE found is a considerable variety of "assembly" of just a couple different pieces in the back part of the assembly ; and I expect to come to a REAL SOLUTION to this problem REAL SOON ( as in some-time the next couple units I work on).

The main area of investigation centers around the "tripping" mechanism" , as I've come to think of the couple small pieces involved in every failure. For those of any gun-smithing experience , this is a couple of small metal pieces that function like the TRIGGER & SEAR mechanism of a quality fire arm. Specifically , there is a very small round metal "peg" that is secured into a likewise very small SQUARE NOTCH ; this little apparatus is "biased" by a very-small, very-light hair-pin-like spring : this spring has been found in several different positions , leading me to believe that it is NOT stable in it's proper ( OEM ) position (what-ever that may be !) . In addition , there TWO ADDITIONAL slightly larger FLOATING metal levers just below this that also just seem to "flop around" ; these random positions also seem to be related to the problem - most likely they ALSO are not "toggeling" correctly , as all these little pieces are repeatedly found in various positions !

GUARANTEED : if you can get at this little "SEAR" type of peg , pushing it (forward - out of the notch ) toward the FRONT of the unit WILL EJECT THE TAPE , as long as you have not broken any of the PLASTIC CASSETTE CARRIER / RAILS in the front of the unit !

At this time , I'm tempted to dismantle a KNOWN GOOD WORKING UNIT { UGH !! } , just to get an OEM understanding of which part in this area goes where , and what is supposed to toggle the "tripping" mechanism !

There is always the chance that the proper operation may be negated by some electrical problem - but I've yet to ID any such indications - even though it is ALSO a possibility.There is one large solinoid , and one very small one , as well as the DC drive motor , and its reversing mechanism : all these parts seem to be working OK ; but I've not proven that yet , mostly because when this problem first starts , it is first intermittant , and then progressively worsens , until total failure occures. That has me looking for a mechanical wear/broken type of problem.

SUCCESS ! See my earlier descriptions: IF you can get the tape to eject (once you've OPENED the unit for access ) by pushing the large, black solenoid shaft ~ 1/4" into the solenoid housing , THEN this solution WILL be a permanent FIX: Turn the (removed) Cassette sub-chassis over ; in the corner where you see the BRASS PULLEY , there will also be a small, vertical chassis punch-out TAB that has two very small, light springs on it :

BE VERY CAREFUL ;

DO NOT DAMAGE THESE !

Using a medium sized standard bladed screw-driver , place the tip of the screwdriver into the BACK-SIDE chassis edge flange-corner ; then , holding everything securely & GENTLY , push the screwdriver handle forward (toward the small BLUE SOLENOID) so as to SLIGHTLY BEND the verticle TAB about 20-30 degrees off vertical , toward the front of the sub-chassis : An ACCURATE gauge of bending is to STOP when the smaller spring is about its WIDTH still separated from the BRASS PULLEY.

This change provides just a little more LATERAL SPRING BIAS on that BLACK "Tripping" lever , whose pin gets stuck in the wrong place ( the square notch !).

If you find that another MECHANICAL problem starts after this change , just RE-ADJUST the tab slightly BACK toward its original position.

My GUESS , so far , is that when these units are NEW , that there is enough sliding friction in that "VEE" notch assembly , that the peg does not slide into the SQUARE NOTCH as easily , as after the unit has gotten hundreds/thousands of tape-cycle-loading opeations : GOOD LUCK !

Wow that is a mouthful!I see not where this question says there is anything specifically wrong."How can you repair a cassette player?"I mean ffs, one 'could' take it to a repair shop...Is this a ploy to find polular answers to very generic questions for free and hope that along the way you get even more useful info? likely :) Nine out of ten delcos over 4 years old simply need a belt kit. this is why they clik clik clik. It is the belt slippage that makes the transport not work properly and causes the noise.I am totally with the 'replace it with a Walmart unit, adaptors and harness for about 100.00' (and with a nice warranty). Most any zelaous (yet careful) novice could do this upgrade.. on the other hand, one could pay 50+ to get it repaired and then a display solder joint in the tuner might break the next day. :S

Dr.DB Iasca Pro 251-500 1986-1994

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