industry standard practice. the electrical load from a combination range is the same as the combined loads from a wall oven and countertop. so your panel and electric service will handle it. BUT the range will be on a single circuit and you must ensure that the range circuit requirements are met. the circuit requirements are on the nameplate. for example, if the range requires a 30 amp circuit and your wall oven was a 30 amp circuit then you can use the wall oven circuit. but if the range requires a 40 amp circuit, then you have to pull a 40 amp circuit from the panel to the range.
Aside from the Bunsen burner for heating elements alcohol lamp could be of good use too.
At 120 Volts your heater is drawing about 12.5 Amps. If your house only had 120 V then it would draw 13.6 Amps. Problems could be 1.) Other devices on same circuit. 2.) Internal short in the heating element that reduced resistance and increased current. 3.) Faulty heater in that it really delivers more than 1500 watts because heating elements are less resistance than rating would require. 4.) Faulty breaker. These are in order of likelihood. You are close enough to the limit of the breaker that it could be any of these things. Typically you should not exceed 80% of the breaker rating and that is just where you are operating.
The quartz glass used in heating elements is used because it's transparent to infrared wavelengths of light. The glass has no coating whatsoever.
Probably not. If the appliance has multiple heating levels then you might get away with it. In this scenario you would only be able to use 30 amps of the appliance's 40 amp capacity before the breaker would trip.
An "open flame" refers to flame, usually used as a heating source, that is directly exposed to the outside elements, or often the object to be heated. Examples would include a Bunsen burner, a bonfire, or in some cases grills. The opposite would include heating elements that do not directly openly expose the flame, such as old stoves or heating elements.
yes, the breaker just controls the heating elements
a bad thermostat or miswire of the low voltage wiring or a bad heating relay stuck in the heating mode.
There are two conditions that would cause a breaker to trip off. One is an overload of the circuit and the other is a short circuit on the circuit. The heating element within the breaker is what monitors for circuit overloads.
Nichrome but nichrome is made out of nickel and chromium
Turn the power off and call an electrician.
Aside from the Bunsen burner for heating elements alcohol lamp could be of good use too.
Caramel is made from sugar by heating it.
It sounds like your heating element is out, check your breaker also it may have triped.
it is a small particle that contains burnable elements.
Fortunately, no !
Breaker is tripped.
At 120 Volts your heater is drawing about 12.5 Amps. If your house only had 120 V then it would draw 13.6 Amps. Problems could be 1.) Other devices on same circuit. 2.) Internal short in the heating element that reduced resistance and increased current. 3.) Faulty heater in that it really delivers more than 1500 watts because heating elements are less resistance than rating would require. 4.) Faulty breaker. These are in order of likelihood. You are close enough to the limit of the breaker that it could be any of these things. Typically you should not exceed 80% of the breaker rating and that is just where you are operating.