Red Eared Slider Turtle

How do red eared slider eggs hatch?

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2011-09-12 22:46:16

"Maturity_age" id="Maturity_age">Maturity age

Red-Eared sliders will be mature enough for breeding at about 5

years of age, this is when the female shell size is about 15 cms

(about 6 inches).

"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" name="Mating_dance" id="Mating_dance">Mating

dance The mating dance of this species is very elaborated and

interesting to observe. The male swims towards the female and

starts caressing her face with his long front claws. He might also

swim around her in circles. He might also strike her front shell

lightly with his claws (this looks as if his front leggs are

trembling). If she is receptive, she will accept him, otherwise, a

fight might start. If after 45 minutes, the female is not receptive

to the male's dance, you should remove her from the tank and try

again in about two days. The mating itself takes about 15 minutes.

"Mating_tank_size" id="Mating_tank_size">Mating tank size Use a

30 gallon tank. Keep the water warm but shallow (About 5 inches),

since during the mating the male might get so concentrated that he

might forget that the female has to go out for breathing!.

"After_mating" id="After_mating">After mating It is advisable

during pregnancy to keep the female separate from the male, so that

she will not get disturbed so much. You should handle her ONLY when

absolutely necessary. Keep the water very clean and give her enough

space. Heating is also very important as they will spend a lot of

time basking to warm themselves and the eggs inside. You might

notice a change in the appetite of the female, she might refuse to

eat. This is normal. Nevertheless, continue offering her food and

consider a dietary change, she might feel inclined to eat certain

things only.

name="Nesting_quarters" id="Nesting_quarters">Nesting quarters

Prepare a 20 gallon tank with about 4 inches of potting soil or

soil/vermiculite mixture.

"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" name="Laying_eggs" id="Laying_eggs">Laying

eggs The average gestation period is two months, but if she

doesn't find a suitable place for laying her eggs, she might retain

them inside. During the last two weeks you will notice that she

will want to spend more time on land, sniffing and digging around

in order to find a proper place for laying her leggs. At this

point, you need to place the female in the nesting quarters. Try to

watch her as much as you can to see where she lays the eggs. She

might lay from 2 to 20 eggs.

Removing the eggs or

not?Some keepers prefer to leave the eggs where they were

laid. A good point of doing so is that they do not need to handle

the eggs, digging them out could dammage some of them. A bad point

is that monitoring buried eggs could be a bit difficult. The worst

that could happen is that one egg goes bad, gets fungi that then

spreads to the other eggs... or some of the hatchilings might have

a problem digging their way out.

"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" name="Incubation_box" id=

"Incubation_box">Incubation box If you decide to remove the

eggs to incubate them, you will need to prepare an incubation box.

You can use a large plastic sweater box or a plastic shoebox. (

Plastic boxes are good since they can be throughly cleaned and

keeps well the moisture.) Drill a series of small holes into the

lid for ventilation. (Make no more than a dozen holes of about a

quarter of an inch in diameter). Then, set up a bedding in the

container of about 2 inches of vermiculite. Use the heavy grain

rather than the fine one. Moisten the vermiculite evenly. Make sure

it is DAMP and not WET.

"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" name="Removing_the_eggs" id=

"Removing_the_eggs">Removing the eggs This process has to be

done very carefully. Scoop back small sections of the substrate

around the next, very slowly and carefully, trying to feel the eggs

with your fingers at the same time. Once you find an egg, before

removing it, get a water based felt-tipped marker and make a small

mark on the top of the shell. This is important since you need to

place the eggs in the same position the turtle layed them. Once you

have transfered all the eggs to the incubation box, set it

somewhere where it will not be disturbed . Check the eggs a few

days after by just removing the lid, but don't handle them! Check

for rotten eggs, which you should throuw away immediately. If you

see that an egg is developing fungi, you can remove the fungi with

a 50/50 solution of antiseptic mouthwash and water, which you

should apply carefully with a paintbrush.

style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" name="Hatching" id=

"Hatching">Hatching You should start to observe the eggs more

carefully about 80 to 85 days after they had been laid. Hatching

time is comming! Once the time comes, the hatchings will cut the

egg shell with something called the egg tooth, which falls out

about an hour later and never grows back. If they don't feel

secure, they will remain inside their shells. Do not try to take

them out until they have come out on their own. (they might not

come out until the following day). Once they come out, you will

notice a small sack hanging out of their bellies. This is the yolk

sac that fed them while they were incubating. DO NOT try to remove

this sac, trying to remove it can kill the baby turtle. It is

better to wait that it drops on its own. Once it drops, you will

notice a split in the plastron. This will heal by itself too, you

don't need to treat it.

"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" name="Care_of_the_hatchlings" id=

"Care_of_the_hatchlings">Care of the hatchlings Set them on a

20 gallon tank per dozen. Provide them with a dry land area and a

shallow water area. Newborns need to master the art of floating and

staying underwater for long periods of time. Don't assume that they

will survive only with water. Newborn red-eared sliders can

actually drown if you neglect them a dry land area. Once they are

set up in their tank start feeding them. It is important to get

them to eat. Start by offering them one by one all items on the

proper slider diet. Note: You might have to 'chop' all of the food

you offer since they are small babies. This includes choping

earthworms, mealworms, crickets. I know, this sounds disgusting but

believe me, you will get used to after a while and it won't bother

you anymore. As with addult sliders, newborns need to have their

full spectrum light. So don't forget to include that in the tank.

The full spectrum light will help the newborn shells to harden.

Keep the water neatly clean. If you don't have a filter change the

water every two days. This is very important since baby sliders are

more prone to getting eye infecitions (that can leave them blind

for life or even kill them) than adult sliders.

"Maturity_age" id="Maturity_age">Maturity age

Red-Eared sliders will be mature enough for breeding at about 5

years of age, this is when the female shell size is about 15 cms

(about 6 inches).

"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" name="Mating_dance" id="Mating_dance">Mating

dance The mating dance of this species is very elaborated and

interesting to observe. The male swims towards the female and

starts caressing her face with his long front claws. He might also

swim around her in circles. He might also strike her front shell

lightly with his claws (this looks as if his front leggs are

trembling). If she is receptive, she will accept him, otherwise, a

fight might start. If after 45 minutes, the female is not receptive

to the male's dance, you should remove her from the tank and try

again in about two days. The mating itself takes about 15 minutes.

"Mating_tank_size" id="Mating_tank_size">Mating tank size Use a

30 gallon tank. Keep the water warm but shallow (About 5 inches),

since during the mating the male might get so concentrated that he

might forget that the female has to go out for breathing!.

"After_mating" id="After_mating">After mating It is advisable

during pregnancy to keep the female separate from the male, so that

she will not get disturbed so much. You should handle her ONLY when

absolutely necessary. Keep the water very clean and give her enough

space. Heating is also very important as they will spend a lot of

time basking to warm themselves and the eggs inside. You might

notice a change in the appetite of the female, she might refuse to

eat. This is normal. Nevertheless, continue offering her food and

consider a dietary change, she might feel inclined to eat certain

things only.

name="Nesting_quarters" id="Nesting_quarters">Nesting quarters

Prepare a 20 gallon tank with about 4 inches of potting soil or

soil/vermiculite mixture.

"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" name="Laying_eggs" id="Laying_eggs">Laying

eggs The average gestation period is two months, but if she

doesn't find a suitable place for laying her eggs, she might retain

them inside. During the last two weeks you will notice that she

will want to spend more time on land, sniffing and digging around

in order to find a proper place for laying her leggs. At this

point, you need to place the female in the nesting quarters. Try to

watch her as much as you can to see where she lays the eggs. She

might lay from 2 to 20 eggs.

Removing the eggs or

not?Some keepers prefer to leave the eggs where they were

laid. A good point of doing so is that they do not need to handle

the eggs, digging them out could dammage some of them. A bad point

is that monitoring buried eggs could be a bit difficult. The worst

that could happen is that one egg goes bad, gets fungi that then

spreads to the other eggs... or some of the hatchilings might have

a problem digging their way out.

"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" name="Incubation_box" id=

"Incubation_box">Incubation box If you decide to remove the

eggs to incubate them, you will need to prepare an incubation box.

You can use a large plastic sweater box or a plastic shoebox. (

Plastic boxes are good since they can be throughly cleaned and

keeps well the moisture.) Drill a series of small holes into the

lid for ventilation. (Make no more than a dozen holes of about a

quarter of an inch in diameter). Then, set up a bedding in the

container of about 2 inches of vermiculite. Use the heavy grain

rather than the fine one. Moisten the vermiculite evenly. Make sure

it is DAMP and not WET.

"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" name="Removing_the_eggs" id=

"Removing_the_eggs">Removing the eggs This process has to be

done very carefully. Scoop back small sections of the substrate

around the next, very slowly and carefully, trying to feel the eggs

with your fingers at the same time. Once you find an egg, before

removing it, get a water based felt-tipped marker and make a small

mark on the top of the shell. This is important since you need to

place the eggs in the same position the turtle layed them. Once you

have transfered all the eggs to the incubation box, set it

somewhere where it will not be disturbed . Check the eggs a few

days after by just removing the lid, but don't handle them! Check

for rotten eggs, which you should throuw away immediately. If you

see that an egg is developing fungi, you can remove the fungi with

a 50/50 solution of antiseptic mouthwash and water, which you

should apply carefully with a paintbrush.

style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" name="Hatching" id=

"Hatching">Hatching You should start to observe the eggs more

carefully about 80 to 85 days after they had been laid. Hatching

time is comming! Once the time comes, the hatchings will cut the

egg shell with something called the egg tooth, which falls out

about an hour later and never grows back. If they don't feel

secure, they will remain inside their shells. Do not try to take

them out until they have come out on their own. (they might not

come out until the following day). Once they come out, you will

notice a small sack hanging out of their bellies. This is the yolk

sac that fed them while they were incubating. DO NOT try to remove

this sac, trying to remove it can kill the baby turtle. It is

better to wait that it drops on its own. Once it drops, you will

notice a split in the plastron. This will heal by itself too, you

don't need to treat it.

"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" name="Care_of_the_hatchlings" id=

"Care_of_the_hatchlings">Care of the hatchlings Set them on a

20 gallon tank per dozen. Provide them with a dry land area and a

shallow water area. Newborns need to master the art of floating and

staying underwater for long periods of time. Don't assume that they

will survive only with water. Newborn red-eared sliders can

actually drown if you neglect them a dry land area. Once they are

set up in their tank start feeding them. It is important to get

them to eat. Start by offering them one by one all items on the

proper slider diet. Note: You might have to 'chop' all of the food

you offer since they are small babies. This includes choping

earthworms, mealworms, crickets. I know, this sounds disgusting but

believe me, you will get used to after a while and it won't bother

you anymore. As with addult sliders, newborns need to have their

full spectrum light. So don't forget to include that in the tank.

The full spectrum light will help the newborn shells to harden.

Keep the water neatly clean. If you don't have a filter change the

water every two days. This is very important since baby sliders are

more prone to getting eye infecitions (that can leave them blind

for life or even kill them) than adult sliders.


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