How do you change the rear brakes on a 2000 VW Beetle?

Answer 1

Tools required:You'll need a 13mm box wrench or socket, 15mm box wrench (or pliers. You'll also need a brake caliper reset tool of some kind (ranginf from fancy $60 one to cheap $8 brake caliper cube from the local auto megamart to big vice grips or channel-type pliers +extra time and inappropriate language.) Also one set (4 pads) of brake pads and a small packet or two of brake grease.

Starting with the back corner jacked up, wheel removed and jackstand in place: There are two bolts that need to be removed. One is on the top and one on the bottom of the caliper. To find them look down from the top and you'll see a 1/2" long rubber boot- the bolts screw into this from the inside, so you'll have to reach your head inside to see them (you DO have a jackstand under the car, right?). The bolt is about 1-1/2" long with a 13mm head. To unscrew it you'll probably have to keep the nut on the rubber boot-side from turning with a skinny 15mm box wrench or pliers (be careful not to ruin the rubber boot.) There's what looks like a washer between the nut and the rubber boot, but it's really attached to the nut, so you can gently hold that with pliers to keep the nut from turning as you unscrew the bolt. After removing both bolts, you can wiggle the caliper towards the rear of the car to get to the pads. The pads are probably still in place. Leave them there for now since if you aren't able to complete this next step you'll be reusing them and they should go on the same side they came off of. The exposed part of the caliper's cylinder is a metal disk, about 1-1/2" in diameter with two notches at opposite sides. In order to get the new, larger breake pads on you'll have to push this cylinder back into the caliper so that it's nearly flush with the outside of the rubber bushing (the bushing will fold neatly as it moves in). The tricky part here is that you CANNOT just squeeeze the cylinder in as you might on 98% of the other cars you've worked on. Instead, the disk must be screwed in and squeezed in at the same time. If you insist on forcing it in using your 12" C-clamp, rebuilt calipers are going for about $95 each online. The C-clamp CAN be used as long as you hold the caliper with one hand, turn the C-clamp with your second hand, and twist the disk using channel-locks with your third hand. There are no threads to catch- if you just spin it without sqeezing it will go nowhere. The brake-cube tool connects to the end of a 3/8" extension on your ratchet and lets you turn the disk as your third and fourth hands try to squeeze the cylinder in somehow (prying with a screwdriver works for me). The Fancy tool lets you do it with only two hands- It's similar to a c-clamp with a foot that's stuck to the screw. If You've gotten the cylinder all the way back in (flush with the outside ring of the rubber boot) then you can swap the brake pads. Pull the old ones off, wipe a layer of brake grease (comes in a small plastic package like a tiny ketchup from a restaurant) on the METAL side of the brake pad- DO NOT GET GREASE ON THE LINING. The place you bought the brakes knows what this stuff is. If you don't see it out and they don't offer it, just ask when you get the brakes. This stuff is designed keep your brakes from squeeking. After snapping the new, greased pads in place, center the wire spring on each pad as much as possible, then slide the caliper back into place. Start the two bolts you're removed earlier, then check to make sure that neither of the springs shifted by looking through the slot in the center of the caliper (put your head directly to the rear of the caliper assembly and look straight ahead towards the axle). If you see the loop in the ends of either spring, take the caliper off, center the spring and try again. Both of the ends of these springs must ride against the caliper housing to keep the pads pressed in place. Tighten up the two bolts, put your tire back on, lower the car and repeat on the other side. No matter how hard that was, you MUST do both at the same time. Besides, the second one will be easier, I guarantee. When it's test time, pump the brake pedal several times before you put your car in gear to get the presure back to normal.

This isn't as bad as it sounds (other than resetting the cylinder maybe). You should be able to do it in an hour or two, much less if you're comfortable with tools and have the ones you need.