See saturnfans.com Barnowl posted a home made procedure for radiator flushing.
It has the special bleeding bolt in the bottom part of the radiator, when you are facing the car it should in right bottom corner of the radiator. It also has one bleeding bolt on the engine facing radiator (just behind the exhaust manifold) You are suppose to loosen it when you are doing full flush. Torque 25 N*m
Nothing will happen.
On most cars if they don't have a radiator cap, then you can put it in the cooling system by pouring it in through the upper radiator hose. Even if you are suppose to do this while engine is hot DO NOT because it will have the same affect as pulling the radiator cap while hot.
The coolant in a 1998 model has dex cool antifreeze. It is red in color and not green. It is suppose to be good for 5 years or 150000 miles.
A pressure cap is used to determine the pressure in your radiator. It raises the boiling point of the coolant. If the coolant boiled, it would cause gas bubbles to form and cause hot spots in the engine cooling chambers. The pressure valve has a spring set on a certain PSI (dependent upon the vehicle, I suppose) so that when/if the pressure in the radiator gets too high, the pressure is enough to force the valve temporarily out of the way, relieving the excess. Most modern cars have an expansion tank at the top of the system. The coolant, bypassed by the pressure cap, ends up temporarily in the plastic bottle and is then drawn back into the system as the engine cools.
yes when its broken!
There is a coolant thermo switch at the centre bottom of the radiator which needs two leads connected. if these are not connected the system starts the fans as a fail to safe condition. Reconnecting both leads opens a normally closed switch controlling the fans which will then only close again when the coolant temp rises because of long idling periods or slow moving traffic. good luck,Henry, South Africa.
That is engine coolant rushing through the heater core. Things to check. Engine coolant level in radiator and if it's not low then the only thing left is the heater hose quick disconnect fitting in the intake. There is suppose to be a small plastic water restricter down in the bottom of the quick disconnect fitting that is designed to slow the water up before it goes through the heater core. If that restricter is gone then replace the quick disconnect fitting.
You likely have a cracked head or damaged heat gasket (or intake manifold). You should get this checked out soon...
This is an early sign that your radiator needs to be flushed, or replaced. I would get this done to avoid having to drive w/your heater on during these hot summer months. Probably the radiator is marginally blocked or the thermostat is sticking partially closed. Somehow the engine is not getting enough coolant flowing. If you've never had the radiator removed and tested, now seems like a good time. You don't say if you are driving down the road or not. If you are driving down the road there is suppose to be enought air pushing through the AC and radiator to keep everything cool. When you are parked or in slow traffic the electric fans come into play. The electric fans on the radiator may not be working. They are supposed to come on and draw air through the radiator and AC condenser at a certain engine temperature. There are sensors and the car computer involved in this process.
Ummmm, Radiator fans run off a temperature switch. Sometimes they put the fan switch and sender for the gauge together so I suppose it could be related. Have you checked to see if the wires are unplugged? Just a thought.
it's probably going to be at the bottom back, bottom side left or right, or underside of the radiator itself it at the bottom, drivers side of radiator. it is BURIED. I could not get to mine to open it. need to be a wizard i suppose there is a little hole use a pair of needle nose that's how i did mine