hook it up to the intake vacuum, normally the back of the carburetor where the brake booster may be plugged in. On a vehicle without power brakes, the vacuum port is normally plugged with a screw in plug.
All engines must have a harmonic balancer instaled on them. Balanced or not. Hook a vacuum gauge to direct vacuum port on intake. That is a place that will have vacuum on it when the engine is running at an idle. Then read gauge and move the distributor until you get the highest vacuum reading. It should be 18 to 21 inches of vacuum at an idle.
The fuel level gauge is in the tank
if you cant find a plugged vacuum port on manifold buy a tee fitting and tap into it
engine vacuum or direct into the intake.
hook a vacuum gauge up to any of the rubber hoses that are coming out of the intake manifold, such as the brake booster....
if it is a manual gauge it is as easy as following the directions. hook up a wire for the light, a ground and the vacuum hose spliced somewhere into a current vacuum line with the T that is most likely provided.
You can hook a vacuum gauge to a direct vacuum source on the intake manifold. There's several vacuum ports on the intake. Gauge should read at idle 18 to 21 inches of vacuum, the higher the better. If it has real low readings like below 18 Then if you KNOW for sure there's nothing else wrong with the engine, then it's probley the converter.If you want to KNOW for sure then take the exhaust loose on both sides of the engine and go drive it. If it run's good and you like it, then put a converter on it.
if you go to autozone.com they havve repair manuals with the vacuum lines you just pick your car and engine and check for the emmissons area
There should be a vacuum source on the carb above the throttle body that gives spark ported vacuum. You can connect a tube from this source to the distributor.
need to know how to hook up the wires on the engine on F-150 pick up to make a pro tach rpm gauge work
hook up a fuel pressure gauge to injector rail measure pressure with engine running,then pull vacuum hose off regulator pressure should jump up about 10 psi. also make sure fuel is not leaking from fitting.this indicates a ruptured diaphragm in regulator, also make sure it holds 18inches of vacuum with a vacuum tester
The check engine light is because the EGR 'lift sensor' is showing that the valve is not lifting when it should be, or it is indicating the sensor is open, or the voltage is out of range the lift sensor may be bad, or it's not lifting when it should be (vacuum leak, vacuum switch leak upstream) EGR normally does not activate at idle, or engine will stall (as you have seen). clear the codes, then hook up a vacuum gauge when driving the car. Once the car is warmed up, there should be vacuum at the egr valve at part throttle. If not, the upstream vacuum switch is faulty or vacuum is leaking out somewhere. See the following tips on Mazda egr systems: http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/sept2002/techtips.cfm