Without more information that appears to be a 240 volt circuit. Red & black would connect to the 240 volt breaker, white connects to the neutral bar, and ground conductor from the ground rods or ground plate connects to the neutral bar. Make sure that the bonding screw is in the neutral bar and it is screwed through to bond the distribution panel enclosure to the neutral bar.
Most likely the ground (green) wire is mistakenly connected to hot instead of the hot wire (black) at the breaker panel! Possibly you meant the neutral wire not the ground wire, in that case most likely the neutral (white) wire is mistakenly connected to hot instead of the hot wire (black) at the breaker panel! In either case check all three wires in the breaker panel for that circuit to make sure they are all correctly connected! Black is hot, White is neutral, Green (or uninsulated in some cases) is ground.
Assuming the wires are the correct gauge for application and breaker you use black and white wires as hot. Put red electrical tape on each end of white wire and connect red and black to the breaker output and bare wire to ground lug in panel. At receptacle connect black and red to hot contacts and bare wire to ground lug.
There will always be voltage to the ground wire, this is normal. The reason being is that the ground wire is bonded to the neutral terminal block back at the distribution panel. If you have a voltage reading to ground at the outside fixture with the switch in the on position then you have an open return neutral wire. This wire should be traced back from the light to the distribution panel. Check ever junction box that the circuit goes through and look for a loose or open white neutral wire. Closing the circuit where you find this fault will correct the problem.
On a 120/240 volt distribution system the ground wire is terminated at the point where the service neutral terminated in the distribution panel. It is usually a double lug the neutral wire connecting into one hole and the ground wire connecting into the other hole. Through this lug assembly there is a machine screw that is inserted through the lug assembly and it screws into the metallic enclosure of the distribution panel. This action bonds the metal enclosure, neutral wire and ground wire bringing the point to a common potential of zero.
Wall receptacles are wired in parallel. black to black, white to white, ground to ground.
It seems like you are describing the Red, Black, White and Ground in your electric panel. There is 240 VAC between Black and Red and 120 VAC between Black and White and 120 VAC between Red and White. The electric panel has two busses that supply 120 VAC on alternating breakers in your panel. Essentially, the Red turns into "black" in the panel for all practical purposes. If you have a 240 VAC circuit it essentially takes up to two vertical positions in your electric panel.
You don't say "turn off" or turn on". Light should be connected black to black and white to white and ground to ground. If you connect white to ground it will work, but you are then using the ground wire for an unintended purpose. Neutral is bonded to Ground at the panel. Current on ground wire could cause ground loops and may cause GFCI to trip if you have them in your house.
On a 200 amp or any size service the ground wire is easily identified. Look in the distribution panel for the neutral bus bar. This is where the service neutral (white wire) is connected to the distribution panel. There you will see a bare copper wire connected to the same neutral bar. This is the ground wire that is connected to the ground rods out side of the house.
The new cooktop has a 4 wire connection. Red & Black are hot. White is neutral, and green is ground. You existing panel is wired with 3 wires. Black & Red are hot and green is ground. There is no neutral wire. Connect the black to black, red to red, and then connect the white and ground together at the plug.
In North American residential homes, there are 3 wires coming from the utility company, two "hots" and neutral. The two "hot" conductors get connected to the main breaker. The neutral gets connected to the neutral bus bars located along the sides of the breaker box. There is a set screw that is placed in the neutral bar that screws into the distribution panel enclosure thereby bringing the potential of the neutral bars down to zero. The wire from your ground rod is also connected to the neutral bus bar, and thereby it is connected to the neutral from the power company. This is also often bonded to the copper cold water plumbing in the house if the home is not plumbed in PVC water pipe. White circuit wires are then connected to the neutral bus bars. Also in the distribution panel are ground bus bars. The ground wires from circuit cables are connected to these grounding bars. Do not under any circumstance terminate the white and bare ground wires together. Ground wires to the ground bar and white wires to the neutral bar.
If your house wiring is encased in armoured (metal) sheathing back to the panel, then you can secure the green ground to the ground screw in the box. Make sure the armoured cable connector is tight on the box. This should ground the light back to the panel. If you are on "knob & tube" I would suggest thinking about re-wiring the house.
Most likely the ground (green) wire is mistakenly connected to hot instead of the hot wire (black) at the breaker panel! Possibly you meant the neutral wire not the ground wire, in that case most likely the neutral (white) wire is mistakenly connected to hot instead of the hot wire (black) at the breaker panel! In either case check all three wires in the breaker panel for that circuit to make sure they are all correctly connected! Black is hot, White is neutral, Green (or uninsulated in some cases) is ground.
Answers for USA, Canada and countries using similar 60Hz mains suppliesThe white wire is the "Neutral" wire. The Black wire is the "Hot" wire.The Green wire is the local "Ground "wire.If you do any such work yourself, always turn off the power at the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work AND always use a meter or voltage indicatorto insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.IF YOU NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO SOME ELECTRICAL WORKSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
No. The sub panel is wired that same as an ordinary three wire load. The three wire is connected the sub panels terminal points as red to L1, black to L2, white to the neutral bar and the ground wire in the cable set to the ground bar. The one thing that has to be done is the bonding screw that bonds the neutral bus to the panels metallic enclosure has to be removed. The electrical code states that there is only one place that the ground is joined to the neutral bar and that is at the service entrance point into the main distribution panel.
Ground wires are typically bare wire or green covered. Common wires are white and hot wires are black. If you have black wires that are grounds or commons you should contact an electrician to ensure you don't have a problem on your hands. Sounds like someone who didn't know what they were doing has been mucking around in your panel.
Assuming the wires are the correct gauge for application and breaker you use black and white wires as hot. Put red electrical tape on each end of white wire and connect red and black to the breaker output and bare wire to ground lug in panel. At receptacle connect black and red to hot contacts and bare wire to ground lug.
black absorbs light white reflects light