basicly take toy old ones out put the circle spring on and then slide your pawls into place (maby be hard to put into place u will probably need to lift up the spring)
there are six pawls on a eastern driver, tom .
The "recoil starter" mechanism contains a ratchet (a sort of cogged wheel and a couple of pawls to to catch the cogs). Sometimes the pawls get sticky. Remove the recoil starter (generally 4 nuts or screws) and check out the underside. You will see that if you pull slowly on the rope 2-4 pawls pop out of the ring on the underside. These pawls (which should engage the cogs on the top spindle of the motor) are what's not moving freely. Wipe the inside of the recoil starter and the top spindle of the motor clean, and then spray/squirt a SMALL amount of oil or other lube into the slots where the pawls are. If possible, work the pawls in and out with your finger a bit to loosen them up. Pull the rope slowly again to see if the pawls are moving freely. It might take 3-4 tries of squirting lube and working the pawls. If you can't get it working that way, it is generally possible to disassemble and repair the recoil starter, but it's a bit of a challenge. (The 5-10-foot spring will pop out as soon as you open it.) But the units are relatively cheap to replace, so I'd pick that option unless I wanted a project to keep me busy for several hours.
Basically you have a core with 2-3 small arms (called pawls) attached to it tangentially, and then an outer ring with a saw-tooth pattern on the inside. The pawls slip over the teeth when the wheel is spun one way, causing the clicking. But spun the other way the teeth will engage the pawls and provide drive.
Common reasons for a loud freehub on a bicycle include lack of lubrication, worn bearings, or damaged pawls. To fix it, you can try cleaning and lubricating the freehub, replacing the bearings, or repairing or replacing the pawls.
They've got a plastic shell, and then metal pawls, cogs, cams and springs inside them.
Not clear what you mean by latch. I can think of two things where latch might be used. Either the lever to a Quick-release axle, or the pawls that makes the wheel able to both drive and coast. For the q/r axle, simply get a new one. For the pawls, well, it depends. Some designs can be flushed with little or no disassembly. Others at least need to be removed off the wheel.
Pawls and ratchets are commonly used in mechanical devices where controlled, unidirectional movement is required. For example, they are found in socket wrenches, allowing the user to turn a bolt in one direction while preventing it from loosening in the opposite direction. Additionally, they are used in bicycles for freewheeling hubs, enabling the pedals to move without engaging the wheel when coasting. Other applications include winches and hoists for safely lifting heavy loads.
The only thing I can think of that would make a sound on a regular BMX would be the ticking from the pawls in the freewheel/freehub mechanism - the one way clutch that allows you to keep the pedals still while rolling forward.
i think so yes i have one i rode it very hard and it didnt even mess up once until a freind dicided to take the wheels off then the pawls fell out
--On clothing it should, but if you are trying to get cat urine out of carpeting or furniture you should try the product "Pawls" it is a urine remover for both cats and dogs and works very well. Spray it on the area and vacuum (vacuum on furniture with the hose attachment).
To reduce noise from loud mountain bike hubs, you can try greasing the pawls and ratchets, adjusting the hub tension, or replacing worn bearings. Additionally, using a quieter hub design or adding sound-dampening materials can help reduce noise.
If the bike is OK, then the rear wheel should turn when the pedals are turned in the right direction. But a rear hub contains an one-way clutch, based (usually) on a set of pawls and a serrated ring. If these pawls get gummed up in rust, dirt, dried up grease or something they won't engage. And if they don't engage, the wheel won't turn. If you know where to aim, it's possible to flush the hub with a really light oil, which might restore function. Otherwise you'll have to have it replaced. It's a fairly fast and inexpensive job for a bike mechanic.