If the extisting drain is lead pipe it can be moved about an inch and the use a offset brass floor flange and lead wipe it in place that will give you the 3" you want
If the extisting drain is lead pipe it can be moved about an inch and the use a offset brass floor flange and lead wipe it in place that will give you the 3" you want
get rid of the concrete! / get a plumber!
Sure. Either way. The wax ring seals the toilet to the closet flange so it doesn't really matter that much. The important part is that the toilet be mounted firmly to the floor so that it doesn't move. That would cause the wax ring to fail then the toilet would leak around the flange.
These bolts have elongated heads that fit in narrow sockets in the floor flange so they cannot turn.
To smooth a concrete floor effectively, you can use a concrete grinder or sander to remove any bumps or imperfections. Start with a coarse grit and gradually move to finer grits for a smooth finish. Fill in any cracks or holes with a concrete patching compound before grinding. Finally, seal the floor with a concrete sealer to protect it and give it a polished look.
The easiest solution would be to move the toilet so that it lines up with the waste pipe.
I don't believe so. That is the old style with the tank mounted on the wall and a tube to the base. There is a floor flange with an offset in it that will move it back a couple of inches, but any more and you will need to change the drain or possibly build up the wall behind the toilet if it happens to be in a cut out.
Mine doesn't move because it is tightly bolted to the flange and the joint between it and the floor is filled with plaster of paris.
The toilet itself is easy to install but the plumbing would have to be rerouted by a professional. You just drill the floor and it's 2 bolts.
Yes, concrete is porous and water will move through it over time.
Change how? Move the location, you bust out the concrete and move it. Replace or repair the flange that the toilet hooks to. Cut the existing flange off flush with the floor and install a new repair flange. They can be brass or steel. You can use a PVC one that fits in the drain and seal it with a wax ring under it and screw it to the floor. If you are working with cast iron flange and the slots where the bolts are supposed to go is broken out, they make a repair piece for this. It is a 3/4 inch wide by 3-4 inch long crescent shape piece that slides under the flange and the bolt that holds the toilet fits into it. You may have to chip out a little concrete along the edge to get these under the flange.
To effectively smooth a concrete floor, you can use a concrete grinder or polisher to remove any imperfections and create a smooth surface. Start with a coarse grit diamond grinding pad to level the floor, then gradually move to finer grit pads for a smoother finish. Make sure to thoroughly clean the floor before and after grinding to remove any dust or debris. Additionally, consider applying a concrete sealer to protect the surface and enhance its appearance.