On all the Astro/Safari vans I've seen, the alternator is located on the passenger side of the engine.
If you elect to use a 1/4-inch-drive ratchet in lieu of the 3/8-inch-drive ratchet, limit its use to 10mm-or-smaller sockets: the threaded fasteners in this application having larger heads require greater torque than can be safely and reliably applied using 1/4-inch-drive hardware.
Read this entire procedure first, then decide whether this is a project for you to attempt.
There are significant minor differences to the specific procedures involved, to wit:
(1) Always observe all applicable safety procedures.
(2) Disconnect the cable from the positive (+) battery terminal. For some vans, you will need an 8mm socket or wrench; for others, you will need a 10mm socket or wrench.
(3) The Power Steering reservoir is in the way on vans having the Z-code engine: leaving the hoses attached and avoiding tipping of the reservoir, remove and save the screws that hold the reservoir to the cowl; then bend the hoses and rest the reservoir on the driver's side of the radiator shroud.
The air filter box is in the way on vans having the W-code engine. Open the clamps that seal the box, remove the filter: the nuts and bolts holding the airbox in place are visible. Remove the airbox, saving the hardware.
(4) The ductwork supplying the engine with fresh air is in the way. Usually, these plastic pieces just click together, but there may be one or more clamps, nuts and/or bolts, or screws holding some of it in place. The offending portion consists of the following pieces:
(a) the lower part that turns the air about 90-degrees, so that the air flows upwards,
(b) the upright section that channels the air upwards (it looks like an Accordion's bellows on the Z-code engine),
(c) the upper ductwork connecting the upright section with the air filter housing.
I have heard that some ductwork installations are secured using #2 Phillips threaded fasteners (screws); if yours is such an application, you will also need a #2 Phillips screwdriver.
(5) Remove serpentine belt. The ratcheting tool that looks like a long, flat handle -- it came with the vehicle as part of the lug wrench kit -- has an opening that fits the pulley on the tensioner. Using the tool, loosen the tensioner with one hand and slip the belt off using the other hand.
At this point, whether you need to remove the fan from the front of the engine should be obvious. If you must, be aware that so doing without removing the shroud really isn't going to give you much room (about 1/2 an inch, maybe an inch).
If you need more than that, the shroud has to come off so that you can remove the fan. Although at 13.5 inches (34.3mm) circumference and 14.5 inches (37.9mm) circumference respectively, my forearms and upper arms are rather small, I think that needing to remove the fan to have enough room is a highly unlikely condition.
(6) Remove the engine oil dipstick bracket from the stud holding the alternator to the bracket. The nut securing the dipstick bracket is probably a 10mm. Remove the dipstick bracket from the stud. Be aware the dipstick tube could slide from the engine.
(7) The alternator bracket should be loosened from the front of the engine. Remove the bolts (it should be a trio of 14mm bolts) and save them. This allows the bracket, tensioner and alternator to be tilted away from the engine. At least one bolt may be wet with engine coolant; seal the threads of any such bolt before reinstalling it.
(8) Use an appropriate tool to unclip the plug from the alternator (I used a "butter knife), and remove the red wire from the lug at the back of the alternator. The nut securing the red wire to the alternator is probably a 10mm; the stud in the alternator is probably a 15mm (menitoned just in case the new one needs snugging).
(9) Remove the bolt from the rear of the old alternator holding it to the bracket (either a 13mm or a 14mm); then remove the stud holding the old alternator to the bracket (either a 13mm or a 14mm); then remove the "hinge" bolt holding the old alternator to the bracket (either a 13mm or a 14mm bolt screwed into a 15mm nut).
Installation of the new unit is done by reversing the steps of disassembly.
SAFETY NOTES: Be aware that there can exist pinch hazards during this procedure. Also be aware of the possible hazard of falling tools and/or debris.
Helpful hint: if possible, have someone else hold the bracket/alternator/tensioner assembly in-place while you start the lower 14mm bolt by hand from underneath the passenger side. This makes installing the upper bolts much easier.
Start ALL the bolts before tightening any of them. Generally, it goes pretty quickly if you begin with the "all bolts finger-tight, then all bolts hand (wrench/socket) tight, then all bolts torqued" method.
NOTE: Conspicuously dexterous people may not have to remove the alternator bracket, but in my opinion, the procedure is much easier if this is done. You should never have to remove the doghouse (engine cover inside the van) to replace the alternator. If a mechanic told you he/she did it that way, you should be going to a different mechanic.
There are two bolts visible on the front side of the alternator, and one on the BACK side which you can only feel, not see. The trick to remove this back side bolt is to remove the engine shroud in the passenger compartment, and remove the bolt securing the dip sticks to the firewall. With the dipsticks loose, you can push them aside enough to get a long socket extension on this back-side bolt (might be 10mm, I forget) from the passenger footwell area. An alternate method used by Pros, is to raise the vehicle on a hoist and use a 3-foot socket extension from the ground to reach up to this rear bolt. IMPORTANT NOTE: If this job is done by someone other than yourself, check to make sure this rear bolt was re-installed. Some unscrupulous individuals will omit replacing this bolt because it is such a PITA. You wil have problems a hundred miles down the road, failed alternator, thrown belt, cracked accessory mounting bracket, etc.
1991 Chevy Astor Van 6cyl the pulley below alternator isn't moving can I bypass it or is ity important. Joezilla
1991 Chevy s10 how to replace outside window weather strip
I would assume it's the same as a normal car. Which would be 13-14.5 volts. Higher than 15 is no good, and 12.5 or lower is no good.
On top of the steering column near the firewall under the dash. There will be a metal rod going into the bottom of the switch.
165432 #1 cylinder is left front
Should be by the alternator in the back
How to remove and install the serpentine belt on 1991 Chevy Blazer with AC?
The voltage regulator is built into the alternator.
Disconnect the 1991 Regal battery. Remove the alternator belt and wiring. Unbolt the alternator and install the new one. Reconnect the wires, install the belt, then reconnect the battery.
replace heater core in a 1991 Chevy work truck 1500
Repair the alternator to battery connections or replace the battery.
About 200 bucks. Its about 80 to 130 bucks for the alternator, and its really easy to replace. Sits on top of the motor.
pull the gas tank out and replace it
how to replace the rear seals on a 1991 Chevy S-10 pick-up truck
It's gotta come out from underneath the car.
On the wheel cylinder. Assuming you meant brake bleeder.
Each brake line is held in place with a swivel nut at each end. Turn the swivel nut to the left. The brake line will come off.
A faulty alternator, a faulty belt tensioner.
How do I put a alternotor belt on a 1991 Acura Legend
you take the banana out of the exaust pipe and put it in your ear
replace the ecm
You don't, you replace it.
Hey Ryan==Simply remove the neg battery cable then the ser belt then the wiring on the alternator then the bolts that hold it on. GoodluckJoe