How do you replace the rear brakes on a 2003 Pontiac Grand Am?

Answer 1

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I am not a certified automechanic.(certified IT specialist)
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INSTRUCTIONS
If you are dealing with disc brakes:
Required tools:
1. Jack
2. lug wrench, or impact wrench(power tools make life easier)
3. c-clamp, or brake compression tool(fancy c clamp)
4. socket and ratchet. (if you have it go with the air ratchet), generally 14 mm for the caliper retaining bolts. may vary, so have a few on hand.
5. small wrench. for the bleeder valve. generally 10mm, again may vary.
6. hex head wrenches. may or may not be necessary depending on caliper retaining bolts used.

Additional tools(may be necessary)
1. hammer. I'd recommend either a three pound sledge or a comparable rubber mallet.
2. breaker bar. no sense screwing up a good ratchet with a hammer, and the added leverage comes in handy for stubborn bolts. They will usually take way more torque then the regular ratchet.
3. one man bleeder kit. you can use a commercially available kit, usually runs less than $5.00 at an auto parts store, or a hose and small bucket works if doing two man.
4. Jack stands. Although I highly recommend them, they are not necessary. Safety is the major concern when lifting a vehicle and jacks can and do fail.
5. WD-40. for stubborn bolts. be sure to wipe any off the rotors prior to installation of the pads.
6. propane torch. sometimes wd-40 just ain't enough.
7. ANTI-seize. This will make it easier to remove the bolts in the future by preventing corrosion between the metal parts.
8. Wheel chocks. 2 sets. position one set on the front side and one set on rear side of front tires. safety. Once again you don't have to use them, but its a safety thing.
9. disc quiet, or other squeak remover. not necessary, but may reduce or eliminate the initial break squeak(never have used, never needed it myself).
10.High pressure grease, may come with the brake pads for the caliper seals and bolts.
for the seals i recommend using it, for the bolts i recommend antiseize.
11. shop towels. disposable or reusable. your call.
12. brake cleaner. This is to clean the brake dust off the rotors. never used the stuff myself, usually just wipe them down with a clean rag.
13. Torque wrench. don't have to, but its recommended to torque the retaining bolts to 63 ft/lbs.
PARTS:
1. Brake pads, 2 sets. Don't just replace the one set, replace both or you may wind up with a failure of the other. generally when it comes to brakes, and rotors, i always replace in pairs.
2. Brake fluid, get the big bottle(32oz, or larger.), you'll probably need it, possibly 2.
3. POSSIBILITY: Rotors. Calipers, caliper seals, brake line(this will probably have to be done by a professional), and/or any retaining bolts, or bleeder valves.


STEPS:I'm going to be thorough, so just skip the simple steps if you already know how.
SAFETY TIP: Place vehicle on a level surface.
SAFETY TIP:Use chocks in front and behind front wheels regardless of level surface or not.

1. IF using a LUG wrench to remove lug nuts, break(slightly loosen), the lugs.
1. IF using an impact skip to step 2.
2. Place jack under frame if elevating one side at a time, if using a sufficient size floor jack you can jack up the rear end directly on the rear axle, just be sure to be on center.
2. IF using a jack without stands. Use a hydraulic jack. either bottle or floor type. DO NOT TRY TO USE A SCISSOR TYPE JACK. These cheap little things are barely safe enough to change a tire. I don't recommend the bottle jack without stands but it will do in a pinch. USE THE SCISSOR JACK OR BOTTLE JACK AT YOUR OWN RISK.
2. With stands. Jack up car. Place stands either directly under frame or under rear axle.
I recommend the rear axle vs. the frame. personal choice there.

3. remove tire.
4. compress caliper with c clamp. place the rotating end against the outside pad and the other side against the caliper. This will compress the caliper towards you.
5.remove lower retaining bolt.
6.loosen or remove upper retaining bolt. With this particular model of brake it may not be necessary to fully remove the caliper. If you don't you will need either twine, rope or something to hold the caliper up out of the way.tie up to easiest point.
7. Check caliper piston seal. if there are noticeable cracks it may be necessary to replace the seals. Get the kit and replace everything included. You will need to remove the caliper completely from the car to replace the seals, and may need some specialty tools to seat the seals if you don't have a large socket.
8. Complete compression of piston. Take one of the brake pads off, rotate away from rotor to remove, and place against piston, then use c-clamp to complete compression. that is make the piston flat with the caliper.
9. remove the other pad if not already done.
10. remove the retaining clips.
11. check rotor for wear. If there are pits and grooves you will need to either replace or have them turned. Depending on the depth of grooves, and remaining plate thickness, you might be able to get them turned.
Its generally recommended to turn them with brake replacement. if the plates are smooth you probably don't need to replace or turn them, depending on thickness of remaining metal. newer brakes are thin already, compared to the monsters of yesterday.
When the wear is too bad, just replace them. Depending on area these will run you 50+ a wheel. don't skimp, replace both rotors. Again its a safety thing.
11. clean the rotors. Either wipe with a clean rag or use brake parts cleaner to hose them then wipe dry.
12. replace clips with new ones, if the replacement pads came with them. If not just clean the old ones and put them back on.
13. install new pads. just line up with either the top or bottom retaining clip and swing in to the other. Please note most of these rotors will have one with an additional metal clip. this pad will need to go to the outside. Its a wear/squeal bar.
14. grease caliper piston. just a light wipe around the seal with high pressure grease, usually comes with the caliper.
15. replace caliper.
16. put light coating of either the grease or personally i use the anti-seize on the retaining bolt. all the way across the bolt.
17. replace the lower bolt. Tighten to 63 ft/lbs if using a torque, if not just tighten. But don't over tighten it and don't under tighten. there's no way to indicate this without a torque. it'll be another judgment call.
18. if replacing both at the same time. move to other side and repeat. if replacing one at a time, put the tire back on and tighten lug nuts. drop the car and repeat all steps.
19. Once both are replaced. if you want you can bleed the brakes. if the system hasn't been opened it may not be necessary, but i do recommend it. also if the brake fluid is dark or black, you may want to flush the entire system and completely replace the fluid.

BLEEDING THE BRAKES
FOR FLUSHING:
For two person flushing its easier, just put a hose on the bleeder valve, put the hose in a bucket, pop bottle or other container. have your associate step on the brakes and you loosen the bleeder valve, continue to pump the brakes until they go to the floor, or the container fills.
tighten the bleeder valve.
if the container is full, replace. if not put fluid in the cylinder. close the brake cylinder.
repeat until fluid is clear.
For one person use the bottle that came with the bleeder kit and repeat the above steps until clear.

FOR BLEEDING:
Start with the back right wheel.
using either a hose to container method, or the one person kit, attach the hose to the valve. loosen. depress brakes repeatedly. tighten bolt. repeat on other tires. The brakes should be to the same stiffness as before when done. Be sure to check the fluid level after each wheel, if the level drops too much you may get air in the system resulting in the need for a flush.


FINAL NOTE:
I highly recommend a hane's manual for any car service/repair. They are great, although sometimes it helps to also have a chiltons as well. These manuals will answer just about any repair or tear down question you may have.
Also i found a good tutorial with pictures here:http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Pontiac-Grand-Prix-Rear-Brake-Pads-Replacement-Guide/index.html