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i have a 95 so it shouldn't be to different. take the wheel brake caliper and rotor off. you'll need a t55 torx socket and a 1 1/8 deep well socket. put the car in neutral and spin the hub to align the biggest hole with the torx bolts remove those three bolts and put the car back in park. take the big socket and remove the axle nut and washer. you'll get a new nut but not a new washer so keep ahold of it. pull the hub out and off the axle. reverse the steps. torque the axle nut to 180 ft/lbs

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12y ago
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14y ago

This is a fairly easy job if you have the correct tools and if you don't have a problem getting the axel separated from the hub like I did. Here is what you do:

1. Make sure you have a 34mm socket to take off the Axel Nut, a T55 Torx wrench, a good size breaker bar, a hammer, and a block of wood.

2. Put wheel chocks under unaffected wheels and put car in neutral after the car's lug nuts and axel nuts are loose.

3. Take the wheel, breaks caliper, and Rotor off the car.

4. Spin the Hub around to use the hole drilled in the Hub to access and remove the three T55 Bolts.

5. After the three Torx bolts are removed, Loosen axel nut to end of shaft. Begin taping the hub in several directions and begin to pry the hub off of the spindle.

6. One the Hub is away from the spindle and seems loose, hit the loosened axel nut with a hammer (protect the nut with a block of wood). To get the axel loose from the hub. Be sure to not ruin the axel nut threads to the threads on the axel itself.

7. Everything should be loose now and you should be able to put it back together.

P.S. My axel was stuck to the hub from very large build up of rust. I had to remove the spindle from the car (take off ball joint, tie rod, and strut) and remove the axel from the transaxle to have the axel pressed out of the hub. It took almost 15 tons of force to separate the axel and the hub.

Hope this helps and you have better luck than I did with separation of axel and hub!

when putting axle nut back on, torque it at 180 lbs, and do not use a impack

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9y ago

Jack up the car and put it on stands, take the wheel off. You need a 1 3/16" deep socket impact to take the center nut off. Once off remove caliper with a #20 Allen 3/8 drive. (be sue to relieve pressure from the caliper piston by taking a pry bar and pushing it inwards. Remove completley and then remove the rotor from the hub. You then need a T-55 Torque 3/8" drive to remove three torques from the face (only through one of the three open holes). Once off you should have some fun getting the bearing/hub assembly off. Using an air chisel you can chisel around the outer edge to break it free. Remove it and clean the inside lip and make sure no debris is left in. Also take fine sand paper and clean the inside wall of the hub/bearing area. Grease up the inside and the spline and put the new one on. Lock tite the three torques and torque them to spec and do the same for the main axle shaft nut. Should take less than 3 hours to do one side if you're using a chisel. Or you can get a hub buster to make the job go by very quick. I just did my right side 2 hours ago. Not fun but a competent person can get the job done well.

It could take as little as an hour per side if you have the chisel.

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9y ago

Jack up the neon. Remove the wheel. Unbolt the brake caliper and move it out of the way. If the rotor is a slide on type then remove it. Take the axle nut dust cover off, and remove the nut. Slide the hub off, and replace the bearing and race.

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8y ago

Take the wheel off first of all, Then you will need a one half inch socket wrench. Then find a socket large enough to remove the front hub assembly (Its the big nut in the center of where the wheel goes on.) Replace the front hub assembly. Your done! After you put the wheel back on.

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10y ago

how to replace rear wheel bearings 2007 grand marquis

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Q: How do you change the wheel bearings on a 1996 Chevrolet Cavalier?
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