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Inners or outers?
First set the parking brake firmly. Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle. Remove the front wheels.
Working on one side (you can do the same for the other side,) Remove the cotter pin (if so equipped) from the outer tie rod stud nut. Remove the nut.
Locate the Jam nut located on the inner tie rod that it tightened against the outer tie rod. Loosen this nut just slightly (about 1 quarter turn).
Using a large hammer (minimum 3 lbs.) sharply strike the suspension strut right at the hole where the outer tie rod attaches to the strut. You may need to hit it very hard more than once. You should now be able to pull the tie rod away from the strut by hand.
Unscrew the outer tie rod from the inner tie rod. It may be necessary to use locking pliers to keep the inner tie rod from spinning.
If only replacing the outer tie rod, put the new one on now.
Otherwise continue.
Remove the jam nut that you loosened previously. Remove the clamp at the outboard (small diameter end) of the inner tie rod boot. Push the end of the boot inward toward the middle of the rack about an inch or so and spray oil on the tie rod where the boot was. Remove the clamp at the other end of the boot also. You may need to destroy the boot using a hammer and chisel to remove it. You can use a nylon 'zip' wire tie in place of this clamp when reinstalling.
Grasp the boot firmly and pull it off of the tie rod and rack. You may need to use some force. If there is fluid (Power Steering fluid, not water) inside the boot, you should rebuild or replace the steering rack at this time.
Using an inner tie rod socket (special tool) unscrew the ball socket end of the inner tie rod from the steering rack.
Installation is the reverse. I recommend using red thread locking compound on the threads of the inner tie rod holding it to the rack.
Coating the threads of the inner tie rod with oil before screwing the outer tie rod onto it will greatly reduce the time required to perform a wheel alignment and the results are likely to be much better.
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