What should you do when your pet rabbit is pregnant?

Answer 1

Pregnancy can be detected ten to fourteen days after mating. Physical palpation is the most common and accurate way breeders determine if a doe is pregnant. Between the tenth and fourteenth day of gestation, the fetuses grow rapidly, making them detectable by touch to the experience breeder.

The doe receives no special care prior to detection of her pregnancy. once it's determined that a doe is pregnant, some breeder gradually increase her feed until two days before kindling (birth), then they decrease it.

It's important not to over-feed a doe before or during a pregnancy. obesity can make kindling difficult and can make it difficult for the doe to become pregnant in the first place. Internal fat can build up around the fallopian tubes and block eggs from descending.

Around twenty-seven days after mating, the doe needs a nest box, a place in which she will give birth and care for her young. The nest box should be clean, well ventilated, dry, filled with nesting material, and not too big or too small. The American Rabbit Breeders Association recommends that a nest box be about 2 inches longer than the doe in sitting position and 2 inches wider than the doe in the same position. A doe will foul (urinate and defecate in) a nest box that is too large.

Kindling

Kits are usually born in the quiet of the night, thirty-one or so days after conception. The doe licks and cleans each kit as he or she is born, and then the doe eats the placenta. A wise breeder leaves the dam (a mother rabbit) to her business and doesn't disturb her. Disturbing the new mother can stress and frighten her and her young. The next day, the breeder checks the dam and litter and removes any kits born dead. There are usually two to twelve kits in a litter depending on the breed--small breeds have smaller litters than large breeds. Newborn rabbits are extremely helpless. They're born without much fur, their ability to move is limited, and their eyes and ears are closed.

Lactation

The dam produces milk suited especially for her growing youngsters. The first few days she supplies the young with a "first milk" that contains substances to protect the vulnerable kits from disease. Though blind and without hearing, the kits have a sharp sense of smell, which is how they find the doe's nipples: the kits smell the milk. The young rabbits nurse once or twice a day until they are weaned several weeks later. Lactating is demanding for the doe. Breeders must pay close attention to her to ensure that she is eating and drinking properly to keep up milk production and to prevent nursing problems.

Weaning

The young rabbits grow and thrive under the doe's care. Their eyes open at about ten days, and they're out of the nest box at three weeks of age. As soon as the youngsters are out and about, they can start nibbling on pellets. Weaning, the time to stop nursing and be separated from the doe, usually occurs at about eight weeks of age, sometimes later in large breeds. This, too, can be a stressful time period, and breeders take special care of the doe and young to prevent difficulties.

An excerpt from:

Guidry, Virginia. Rabbits: the Key to Understanding Your Rabbit. BowTie Press, California. 2001

*Please note:

1) It is normal for the doe to spend most of her time away from the nest, so as not to attract predators, so do not be alarmed at this behaviour.

2) Some mother rabbits will eat their young from fear if they are handled before their eyes are open; so as exciting as it is, try not to handle the new family for approximately two weeks.

3) Once baby rabbits are weaned give them unlimeted pellets and hay also no fruits and vegies until at least 7 months the start feeding small amounts of lettec and no fruit until they are 1 year.

Okay ya right i am a breder of mini rex rabbits and when you ween them give them pellets and hay nothing else and keep one or 2 of moms poo pellets in the nest box as the kits will nible them and get valubale bactirea for there digestive tract.
Taking care of a pregnant rabbit is very easy, but there is some things you should know first.

Make sure the doe is out of the bucks cage, or else when the babies are born the buck will attack her and the babies. But if they are already in seperate cages then...great.

NESTING BOX

Ok, I hope you have a nesting box in the cage for the mother or else she will give birth on the wire and the babies will freeze. You can easily build a nesting box with 2 pieces of wood but just make sure there is no nails sticking out. The box should be a little bigger then the doe so she has enough room for her plus the kits.

MATERIALS

You need to provide nesting material so she can make a nest. This is most important. Iv always used tons of hay, a blanket or towel, newspaper, and woodchips. You can use any of these things but i find hay most important. The Doe will also use its fur to line the nest but more materials are neccesery.

FOOD/WATER

Your rabbit, just like any other pregnant creature needs lots of food. She will be eating more then she ever has for the 1st 3 weeks. On the last week before the babies are born she'l cut down on eating a little. Dont be worried if she doesnt eat or drink anything at all about 2 days before she has the babies. After the babies are born she will be drinking ALOT of water so provide alot of water for her.

• Usually the doe will give birth when no ones around. Mine have always gave birth late at night and some right in the middle of the day. Well whenever no one is around. Remember rabbits can hear VERY well so they can hear and sence you. They can hold off giving birth up to 8 hours, but this isnt healthy so give your rabbit some extra privacy.
• When the kits are born they will probably be burried deep under fur and any other materials. You usually would never have to help the doe with anything because rabbits give birth fast and easy.
• Never touch the rabbits untill their eyes are open and they have fur. The only reason you should ever have to hold a rabbit under age is if the doe gives birth on the cage wire. Then you pet the doe with both hands alot to get her scent on you and carefully lift the kit into the box. (be careful they are very squirrmy!) and the mother may be very protective and attack so you may have to take her out of the cage.

Thats all you do, its very simpe and easy. :) good luck and I hope you have as much fun with the kits as I did!

Answer 2

How to Care for a Pregnant Rabbit

Pregnancy Pregnancy can be detected ten to fourteen days after mating. Physical palpation is the most common and accurate way breeders determine if a doe is pregnant. Between the tenth and fourteenth day of gestation, the fetuses grow rapidly, making them detectable by touch to the experience breeder.

The doe receives no special care prior to detection of her pregnancy. once it's determined that a doe is pregnant, some breeder gradually increase her feed until two days before kindling (birth), then they decrease it.

It's important not to over-feed a doe before or during a pregnancy. obesity can make kindling difficult and can make it difficult for the doe to become pregnant in the first place. Internal fat can build up around the fallopian tubes and block eggs from descending.

Around twenty-seven days after mating, the doe needs a nest box, a place in which she will give birth and care for her young. The nest box should be clean, well ventilated, dry, filled with nesting material, and not too big or too small. The American Rabbit Breeders Association recommends that a nest box be about 2 inches longer than the doe in sitting position and 2 inches wider than the doe in the same position. A doe will foul (urinate and defecate in) a nest box that is too large.

Kindling

Kits are usually born in the quiet of the night, thirty-one or so days after conception. The doe licks and cleans each kit as he or she is born, and then the doe eats the placenta. A wise breeder leaves the dam (a mother rabbit) to her business and doesn't disturb her. Disturbing the new mother can stress and frighten her and her young. The next day, the breeder checks the dam and litter and removes any kits born dead. There are usually two to twelve kits in a litter depending on the breed--small breeds have smaller litters than large breeds. Newborn rabbits are extremely helpless. They're born without much fur, their ability to move is limited, and their eyes and ears are closed.

Lactation

The dam produces milk suited especially for her growing youngsters. The first few days she supplies the young with a "first milk" that contains substances to protect the vulnerable kits from disease. Though blind and without hearing, the kits have a sharp sense of smell, which is how they find the doe's nipples: the kits smell the milk. The young rabbits nurse once or twice a day until they are weaned several weeks later. Lactating is demanding for the doe. Breeders must pay close attention to her to ensure that she is eating and drinking properly to keep up milk production and to prevent nursing problems.

Weaning

The young rabbits grow and thrive under the doe's care. Their eyes open at about ten days, and they're out of the nest box at three weeks of age. As soon as the youngsters are out and about, they can start nibbling on pellets. Weaning, the time to stop nursing and be separated from the doe, usually occurs at about eight weeks of age, sometimes later in large breeds. This, too, can be a stressful time period, and breeders take special care of the doe and young to prevent difficulties.

An excerpt from:

Guidry, Virginia. Rabbits: the Key to Understanding Your Rabbit. BowTie Press, California. 2001

*Please note:

1) It is normal for the doe to spend most of her time away from the nest, so as not to attract predators, so do not be alarmed at this behaviour.

2) Some mother rabbits will eat their young from fear if they are handled before their eyes are open; so as exciting as it is, try not to handle the new family for approximately two weeks.

3) Once baby rabbits have been weaned, although they can digest most anything, it is important for their health and long life to only let them eat Timothy Hay for six months. This will ensure they have the proper proportions of bacteria in their intestinal tracts and prevent disease later on in life.

Feeding your doe her normal raton until she kindles is a much better practice. Increase her rations after kindling ONLY. This will help prevent a disease called Ketosis.

The rabbit should collet fur e.g its own fur and put, it in a pile if it does this dont move it coz it means its gonna have its babies and time keep check in on it everyday and one day you should see some baby rabbits. See the links below for more information.

Well, usually you buy a book on rabbits or a rabbit care guide and read the sections about breeding and pregnancy. i will give you a few hints though. gradually increase her food up to 3x her normal amount by the 25th day of pregnancy and keep feeding her the same amount for a week after the kittens are born, then work it back down top her normal amount. the pregnancy lasts for up to 35 days, but they usually have the kittens on the 32nd day. the average litter is between 6 and 8, but they can have any amount between 1 and 13. Please tell me if you don't want your rabbit now that it's pregnant, I will help you rehome it, and i might even be able to take it on myself. We'll see.

Answer 3

When your rabbit is pregnant don't pick the rabbit up otherwise you may harm the babies. When you think your rabbit is going to have their baby soon put some hay or something in their bedding area so that they can use it along with their fur to make a nest.

Hope this is helpful!

You can pick your doe up when she is pregnant, just don't drop her, however, she will be less likely to be friendly during this time and may not want you to pick her up. Putting a nest box full of straw or hay in with your doe a few days before she is due will allow her time to prepare a nest. You need to put some sort of box in as she needs something with depth to hollow out a depression so her babies will stay together and stay warm. In the wild she will dig out a hollow in the ground so they will all stay together.

Answer 4

I brought my preg. Bunnie inside. I gave her a covered litter box with oaten hay to make her nest and she loved it. I didnt even know she had had the babies till they started peeping out. I kept them all inside & trained them to use litter trays & doggy door. Now they come & go as they please

Answer 5

they get fat, and often rip their own fur out to make a nest for their young

Answer 6

Just increase her food intake slightly as it progresses. You can tell how much by how much she eats.

Answer 7

Give them peace and quiet and a nice cool dark environment free of loud noises and pests.