Sand it off. Any paint that does not come off should not create any peeling problems in the future. Be sure to feather the edges of the paint to achieve a smooth appearance on subsequent coats.
If you have the satin, you can add flat paint and take some of the sheen off. This would have to be done before application. It will never be a true flat though.
you don't you paint over it!! you don't you paint over it!!
I am not familar with "Acyrlic Urethane" paint, but I wonder if it is a urethane base paint that is applied and dried, but later has an acrylic clear-coat overlayed to bring out additional gloss. Urethane is more expensive, but lasts longer and is more durable than enamel or acrylic paints. Urethane and polyurethane paints are basically the same thing - toxic paints that require a complete body suit, full mask, and gloves for safe spaying while wet. I believe that Urethane paints are not allowed to be sprayed without a license in California. Applying different manufacturers urethane paints over each other without the proper advance preparation can cause chemical reaction problems that discolor or flake the paint and void the paint OEM warranty. Each manufacturer has their own urethane additive or primer that may allow their OEM paint to be applied over the original paint. You have to check with the paint distributor or manufacturer for details on this. This paint additive or advance preparation step is how many aftermarket paint manufacturers can make their own blend of paints to match the car manufacturer original fleet colors. However, paints made over 20 years ago may have chemical components that are not compatible with newer paints and may fail when Urethane is applied over them. For example I have a 40 year old VW that has OEM baked enamel paint on engine parts. If I apply urethane paint over the enamel, it will start to flake because of the engine temperature and chemical reaction between the paints. The best solution I have found for this enamel problem is to not take a chance - I strip the parts down to the bare metal and paint with a primer and then a black gloss urethane. Since the gloss component is already mixed in, there is no need for me to overlay with a acrylic clear coat.
1st you have to take out peel & than priming & 2 time painting.
Fiberglass won't take stain. You need to get all the flaking paint off, scuff the surface and then paint with an enamel type paint. A yacht supply store will set you up.
It depends. If it's an oil based enamel, it will take anywhere from an hour, for a super-fast dry enamel which is intended to be sprayed, to 24 hours for a standard coating. A water based enamel with usually dry to the point of being serviceable anywhere from an hour to six hours. This is assuming that the paint was applied at a moderate temperature and with a low relative humidity. Both types of enamels should not be scrubbed for at least two weeks to allow time for the surfaces to fully cure. As always, it's best to check the paint's label or technical data sheet for information specific to that coating.
Yes.Clean if well. Use a wire wheel to rub off any rusty loose paint.Go to a paint store (not a big box). MAB makes a primer called SuperBond. It will bond to the finish. Paint the are with the primer. You now have a surface that will take any kind of paint.
There are many factors that could have contributed to the paint that you used not drying. If you are referring to a house paint than the most common problem is that you have an exterior paint and are using it inside. The paint will not dry for extensive periods. Note also that Oil based paints will take up to 7 days to fully cure If you are referring to Automotive paints than chances are that you purchased an enamel. Enamel paints need dryers in them to dry however these are usually only put in when mixed up. Its possible that the people at the place where you bought it from forgot to put the dryers in the paint.
dont use can spray paint it wont hold up to gasoline. paint does not have any paint hardener in it
Without mentioning brand names, anytime you want to cover a freshly textured or skim-coated drywall surface with anything other than a flat paint, you'll want to use a high quality oil-based or 100% acrylic enamel undercoater. This will keep the top coat from flashing, which is a coating with an uneven or blotchy sheen level, is very sandable which will provide a smoother base, and will take fewer coats to cover.
Not really, oil paints would not take to the models well (especially the metal cast ones) and would not allow for much detail. Additionally oil paints would likely cost alot more than the recommended citadel paint.
you can spat the paintball and then take a wet rag towel and wipe it off. If there is still some paint left you can paint over it or stain over it.