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How do you wire a 4-prong outlet?


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2005-10-10 18:20:28
2005-10-10 18:20:28

White wire goes to the silver, "COMMON" connection. Black and/or red wires go to the brass or "HOT" connection. Green or bare ground wire goes to the green or "GROUND" connection.


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Red, Black, white and green

Because the ground is missing in a three prong, the appliance uses a ground strap off the neutral if the ground wire is missing. New codes require a 4 prong outlet if the electrical is being installed new. Remember, if you use a 4 prong, the outlet must be a 4prong outlet, this means it must have 2-hots, 1-neutral, 1-ground. If the outlet does not have these then there is no use having a 4 prong plug on the appliance.

a shorted out outlet can cause a backfeed on the white wire, an open circuit on the white wire with and electrical appliance plugged in to an outlet can cause the same type of backfeed

This can not be done with the wire that you have. If you would like a detailed answer as to why not, start a discussion.

Connect the incoming power wire and the outgoing power wire going to the light switch to the line side of the GFCI outlet. This will protect the outlet and will not turn off power to the light if the GFCI trips.

The input white wire is connected directly to neutral side of the outlet. The input black wire is connected directly to one of the switch posts. Find a short piece of black wire and connect it from the OTHER side of the switch post to the "hot" side of the outlet. Connect the input ground wire to both the outlet and the switch.

Bring the hot power wire into the wall switch box and run another wire out to the outlet. Tie all the whites together in the switch box under a wire nut and shove this back into the box. Tie the black incoming wire and the black wire going to the outlet together and jump a wire off this to one of the screws on the light switch. Connect the black wire going to the light to the other screw on the light switch. Connect the white/black wire to the outlet.

You will need a receptacle that you can wire each outlet separately (not jumpered). You would then wire the switch in series on the line conductor with the outlet you want switchable. Wire the other outlet directly to the power source. You can jumper the neutral from one outlet to the other.

You need two different hots, one neutral and a ground. You can't do it with three wires.

If you still have a non-grounded outlet. One that does not have a ground wire you should replace the wire that feeds that outlet and not just add a ground wire from another source. The main reason is your feed wires are over 50 years old and could have other problems

you can wire the single post toggle switch to the old school 2 wire system, just ignore the ground screw (like the old switch did). no outlet skip the outlet, just use the toggle switch if you want an outlet you'll need to run a ground wire down to your electrical box

A 6-20R is 220V, 15/20A correct? If the outlet is within 75ft of the panel you need to run 12-2 to the outlet from the panel. I would recommend 12-3 as you can then upgrade to a 120/240V outlet later and you are not using a white wire as a hot. If you do use 12-2 wrap the white wire with electrical tape to show it's not neutral. Then just wire the outlet as a normal 220V outlet to a 20A 220V breaker.

Basically you need to connect the black supply wire directly to the outlet rather than have it go through switch. You can have two possible conditions. The first condition is that the supply comes to the switch box and connects to one side of the switch. The other side of the switch goes to the outlet. In this case just remove each black wire from the switch and connect them together with a wirenut. If the black supply wire goes to the outlet and there is another black wire going to the switch then there will also be a wire coming back from the switch. Just disconnect the wire coming from the switch to the outlet and connect the black supply wire directly to the outlet.

No, but the outlet or switch will still require a ground wire

Yes, just remove the outlet and wire the light in.

An existing outlet can be converted by replacing the 30A circuit breakers or fuses in the circuit breaker or fuse box with 15A breakers or fuses. The 30A outlet should also be replaced by a 15A outlet. This is all that is required if the wire from the supply to the outlet is 10, 12, or 14 guage. The existing wire should be 10 guage wire to handle the 30A and there will be no problem in the same wire providing the 15A.

Ground wire not secured at the GFCI outlet or disconnected at another outlet feeding power to the GFCI outlet.

Between the two screws of the outlet there ais a break away tab. If that tab is remover the outlet will become split.

Yes, provided that you have a ground wire in the box and that the ground wire is properly connected in the electric panel.

Just connect it back up like the outlet you are removing is connected. You should see a black and white wire and a ground wire.

Black wire to copper screw( hot is marked on outlet) white wire to other side silver screw (neutral,white is marked on back of outlet) and bare copper wire to green screw. If the outlet box is metal, attach a 4inch bare copper wire too the copper wire with a ground wire nut (has hole through top of nut) now attach to a green ground screw on the box and to the green screw on the outlet. This is so both are fully grounded, and code in most areas.

Voltage does not dictate wire gauge, amperage does. The amperage rating of the breaker feeding the new circuit and the length of the run to the outlet determines your answer.

You need to take a new wire into the outlet and to your new switch box. Black (hot) to black and white (neutral) to white Also splice the ground wire through. In the switch box you'll have your new wire from the outlet and a wire going out to the new light. Incoming black wire to one terminal on the switch and the black wire going to the light on the other terminal. The neutral wires get spliced together.

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