Master Brake cylinder replaced and lines bled-how long?
21 hours
Good time to replace all the brake fluid. Remove the brake lines from the Master Cylinder and pump the master cylinder dry. Add fresh brake fluid from an unopened can and bleed the master cylinder. Reinstall the brake lines and then bleed all brake lines until you see clean fluid. Keep adding fluid to the Master Cylinder until you are done.Good time to replace all the brake fluid. Remove the brake lines from the Master Cylinder and pump the master cylinder dry. Add fresh brake fluid from an unopened can and bleed the master cylinder. Reinstall the brake lines and then bleed all brake lines until you see clean fluid. Keep adding fluid to the Master Cylinder until you are done.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATIONBe careful not to spill brake fluid on the painted surfaces of the vehicle, as it will damage the paint.Unfasten the hydraulic lines from the master cylinder.Disconnect the hydraulic fluid pressure differential switch wiring. On models with fluid level sensors, also disconnect the fluid level sensor wiring.Loosen the master cylinder reservoir mounting bolts.On models with manual brakes, unfasten the master cylinder securing bolts and the clevis pin from the brake pedal, then remove the master cylinder. On models with power brakes, unfasten the nuts and remove the master cylinder assembly from the power brake unit. To install:Install the master cylinder in reverse order of removal and note the following: Many models have an UP mark on the cylinder boot; make sure it is in the correct position.Before tightening the master cylinder mounting nuts or bolts, screw the hydraulic lines into the cylinder body a few turns.After installation is completed, bleed the master cylinder and the brake system.Check and adjust the brake pedal as necessary.When replacing the the master cylinder, it is best to BENCH BLEED the master cylinder before installing it to the vehicle. Mount the master cylinder into a soft-jawed vise or suitable equivalent, so as not to damage the cylinder. Fill the cylinder to the correct level with new DOT 3 type brake fluid. Block off all the outer brake line holes but one, then position a long wooden dowel in the bore to actuate the brake master cylinder. Pump the brake master cylinder 3 or 4 times (push in and out with the dowel) until brake fluid is released and no air is in the brake fluid. Repeat this procedure until all brake fluid is released from every hole and no air is expelled.
Master Cylinder low of brake fluid, grinding when the brakes are applied, and long brake pedal travel on a vehicle with brake shoes instead of brake pads.
Any brand of brake fluid will be fine. as long as it is DOT3
This may be your brake master cylinder leaking brake fluid through your brake booster into the passenger compartment. This is the only source of oil on the driver side of the car. It is likely that your master cylinder rear seal failed long ago and has been slowly filling the brake booster which is mounted to the firewall of the car above the brake pedal. I hope this helps
No, a busted brake booster will not cause the brake pedal to go to the floor. It will however cause the brake pedal to be extremely hard to push. A defective master cylinder will cause what you describe. Replace the master cylinder and bleed the brakes. It can because it happened to me. The booster lost vaccum and the pedal went to the floor. Sorry, you are wrong. The only reason the pedal went to the floor was because the master cylinder failed. The brake booster only boosts the pressure on the master cylinder and allows you to not have to push so hard on the brake pedal. Cars of yesteryear did not even have a brake booster and they stopped just fine albeit you had to push the pedal allot harder than with power brakes. A failing brake booster will not cause your pedal to go to the floor although it might cause it to go lower than normal before the brakes apply. As long as the master cylinder is good you will still have brakes, but you will have to really push hard and might even have to pump them up in order for them to stop the car.
The Brake Master Cylinder is on the left side of the firewall (as you sit in truck) looks like a plastic container. It will have a black lid. There will be metal lines running off of it. Its about 8 inches long and 4 inches wide. The Clutch Master Clinder is on the same side and closer to the fender. Its round and about the size of your hand if you make the letter "C". Uses the same fluid as the Brake master clinder.
it should not take more than 30 min. it's a fairly simple change over.
Do you mean the clutch master cylinder or transmission fluid? They both will be under the hood, the clutch master cylinder will more than likely be on the drivers side near the dash and will say what type of fluid to put in (dot 3) and will say clutch master cylinder. Just open the plastic cap when the fluid is cool and fill to the fill line. I believe as long as the brake fluid says dot 3 or whatever type you need it's okay to use. As for transmission fluid, do NOT use brake fluid for that, buy regular transmission fluid
Answer did ya' bleed 'em? there may be air in the lines. Be sure the new master matches the old master exactly and bench bleed the master before you install it.
To bench bleed the new master, install and bleed system should take aprox one hour, assuming all the bleeders work.