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Poor compressor performance should result in low head pressure as the system cools better than the compressor can pump.
put new compressor an dryer on with 2 new houses
oppisite side of txv sensing bulb on outlet of evaporator (suction line)
It will run continuously if the refrigerant charge is off. The compressor, condenser fan and inside blower fan should all run at the same time. If your thermostat shows that the unit will not keep up, it will not stop. If the unit used to cycle ok, clean outside coil, change filter inside and put a thermometer on the register closest to the air handler. It should be around 52-60 degrees F.
it should blow directly to the condenser
Refrigerant should be removed from the condenser outlet when:
Did it ever shut off before? Check the large pipe on the condenser outside. It should be cold and sweating water like a frozen margarita.
The manufacturer doesn't "necessarily" recommend flushing this system. They go on to state that since it is very unlikely to that a flush would completely clean the condenser, it should be changed along with the compressor, accumulator and orifice tube; in the event of a compressor failure. (When compressors fail they tend to send debris throughout the AC system, it can and will get caught in the small orifices of the condenser evaporator, accumulator and orifice tube) However, while you have the AC lines, orifice tube (removed), accumulator and evaporator disconnected; use compressed air (from a shop compressor) to blow out each line as well as the evaporator and condenser.
You should have the system checked by a repair shop that is certified to service A/C systems...if your ac system is not working it may be not be the compressor or the condenser at all...before replacing anything check the system for proper charge, check the metering device (either a TXV valve or an orifice tube depending on the vehicle) and check to make sure that the compressor clutch is functioning properly...and remember never disconnect any part of the A/C system without having the system evacuated first...hope this helps.
Unscrew radiator, should be two attachments connected to condenser. Unscrew them from the condenser and it should slide right out from in front of the radiator.
If it is working fine, and the noise is only when it is disengaged you should only need to change the clutch on the compressor not the entire compressor. If there is room to pull the clutch off on the truck, then there is no need to evacuate the refrigerant.
These are terms used by refrigeration and air conditioning techs. The suction is refrigerant returning to the compressor from the evaporator, or the low side. The high side is the discharge or head pressure, where high temperature high pressure gas leaves the compressor to flow into the condenser. These systems should only be worked on by licensed and experienced techs.